Feels like ive got my foot on the brake

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
Did this problem show up for the first time after the new master cylinder was installed? If it did, next time the brakes are dragging, loosen the nuts holding the master cylinder to the booster just enough to let the master cylinder be pulled forward about 1/16". If that lets the brakes release, shorten the push rod in the front of the booster. Most imports have adjustable push rods to account for production tolerances, including for the master cylinder.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1999 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
1999 Honda Civic mileage: 130,000. I've been having trouble with my brake system. I had the booster and master cylinder replaced last Monday, and the new booster went out on Thursday. My brakes locked up and started smoking, fried the front brakes altogether. Do I need to try another mechanic? How common is it to get a faulty booster?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
We are sorry to hear you are getting the run-a-round with your car repairs. Faulty power brake boosters are not common but it is possible to get one.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAMIKE
  • MECHANIC
  • 71 POSTS
Sounds like the adjustment rod between the master and booster is mis-adjusted. This will cause the front brakes to "drag", without even touching the brake pedal, and burn them up.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BPRINS5126
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 75,000 MILES
My passenger side rear wheel tire is stuck. I have had no problems like this since I have owned the vehicle. Today I pulled into work pulled the E-brake and when I tried to leave a few hours later the tire was stuck. The other rear wheel still moves. The E-brake still pulls and releases the same as before and I still have good pressure in the break system. I have also taken off the tire to tap the wheel drum in hopes of loosening whatever is preventing it from moving. Please let me know your suggestions as well as a reasonable idea of how much it might cost to fix

Thanks,

A frustrated driver
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

This may be a seized cable holding on the brake, you will have to check to see if the hand brake lever at the rear of the brake backing plate is free to move, you should be able to get some movement by hand, if not try and u do the clip holding the cable end to the lever, it may be tight if there is pressure on it, make sure the wheels are chocked so the car wont move if the brake releases, check this out.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROQUE QUIJANO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • MANUAL
  • 110,000 MILES
The problem with my vehicle is that t every time I am running my car and I hit the brakes, after a while the front wheel tends to lock up. I have changed a new hose and I still have the problem. I even had the master cylinder cleaned and it runs for a while, but it still locks the tires.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

OK, you changed the brake hose, did you change the brake caliper?

Check the brake pads for even wear, if one area is lower than another that is a good indication of a caliper sticking at times. Another possibility is the brake master cylinder leaking into the brake booster, to check this you will need to remove the master cylinder.

Hope this helps

Mark
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:13 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BOBBY BEAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 237,562 MILES
My front brakes are slowly seizing up and my brake pedal is getting tighter. I changed my master cylinder and a leaking hose and caliper. Drives okay when first started but driving a few miles and my brakes start getting tighter and the pedal is hard by the time I get home they are smoking turn off the car for a while and they are better. At the start pedal is almost to the floor, bled thoroughly after changing master cylinder and caliper. Help!
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
If both front brakes are locking up, check the adjustment of the brake light switch to be sure it is not holding the brake pedal down a little. If only one is getting hot, stop on a slight incline, place the transmission in "neutral", place a block about a foot downhill of one tire, then open the hydraulic system in various places to see what makes that brake release. You can start at the steel line at the master cylinder, or with the bleeder screw on that caliper. Once we know what you can open and the brake does not release, we can figure out what is causing the restriction and blocking the fluid from releasing back to the master cylinder.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 12:14 PM (Merged)

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