Belt replacement

Tiny
MARKELEE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
How do you replace the power steering belt on a 99 Accord EX V6. Do you support the engine at the oil pan and remove the engine mount to replace the belt?
Looking at the engine, after the pump is adjusted to give slack in the belt it will come off the pump. However it also goes around the engine mount down to the fly wheel pulley. The old one could be cut off however to get the new one on you have to get it around the engine mount somehow. I have shop manuals for the vehicle but they only reference adjusting the tension & how to check the tension. There is nothing in the manual about replacing the belt, only adjusting it.
Friday, October 8th, 2010 AT 5:37 PM

26 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
That's one way to do it it say's to use a belt bar to remove the belt then use it to put a new one on. It doesn't mention removing the mount, but judging by the picture below you might need to
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Friday, October 8th, 2010 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
RICARDO27
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 13,800 MILES
I recently purchased a 98 accord lx. The belts need to be changed. My question is where can I find a diagram on how it should be routed?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
There you go for a 4cyl


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_belts_1.jpg

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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:21 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARK_BASS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 268,000 MILES
I have a 1997 Honda Accord SE 2.2L 4 cylinder engine and when ever I turn on the air conditioning the car squeals for a while then stops I am assuming that it is the belt and have bought one but do not know how to put it on. I was wondering if you could do some steps for me to replace the belt or if you have a diagram. Thanks
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
I do have the diagram but is not able to post it here.

The site has just gone through a major upgrade and seems some of the features previously availabble are now missing. Hope prob lem is resolved soon.

Let me have your email so I can send the diagram to you.

First you would need to remove the power steering belt.
Loosen the pump holding nuts at top and below the pump and you can push the pump inwards to loosen the belt to remove it.

Repeat with the alternator/air cond compressor belt by loosening the adjustment lock nut below the alternator. Turn the adjusting bolt anticlockwise to loosen the belt tension and remove.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
I have sent the diagram to you. Let me know if it is helpful.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MWHITE0505
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • MANUAL
I have been looking for some guidance about changing the two belts in my car. I have an idea of how, but I want to be sure before starting to do it.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FREEMBA
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,152 POSTS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

CAUTION
Always disable the power to the vehicle by disconnecting the negative battery cable before checking, replacing or adjusting the drive belts. Working with the drive belts requires placing tools, hands and fingers near areas of potential danger. In addition, the cooling fan could engage even with the ignition in the OFF position.

V-Belts

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-2.2L and 2.3L engines without A/C

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-2.2L and 2.3L engines with A/C

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Accessory drive belt routing-2.7L engines

If a belt must be replaced, the driven unit or idler pulley must be loosened and moved to its extreme loosest position, generally by moving it toward the center of the engine. After removing the old belt, check the pulleys for dirt or built-up material, which could affect belt contact. Carefully install the new belt, remembering that it is new and unused; it may appear to be just a little too small to fit over the pulley flanges. Fit the belt over the largest pulley (usually the crankshaft pulley at the bottom center of the engine) first, then work on the smaller one(s). Gentle pressure in the direction of rotation is helpful. Some belts run around a third, or idler pulley, which acts as an additional pivot in the belt's path. It may be possible to loosen the idler pulley as well as the main component, making the job much easier. Depending on which belt(s) being changed, it may be necessary to loosen or remove other interfering belts to access the being replaced.

When buying replacement belts, remember that the fit is critical according to the length of the belt ("diameter") and the width of the belt. The belt shape should match the shape of the pulley exactly. Belts that are not an exact match can cause noise, slippage and premature failure.

After the new belt is installed, draw tension on it by moving the driven unit or idler pulley away from the engine and tighten its mounting bolts. This is sometimes a three or four-handed job; and an assistant could be helpful. Make sure that all the bolts that have been loosened are retightened and that any other loosened belts have the correct tension. A new belt can be expected to stretch a bit after installation, so be prepared to readjust the new belt, if needed, within the first two hundred miles of use.

Serpentine Belts
Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. All the belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked" all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys.

Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label or one of the diagrams in this guide.

Note the radio presets and disconnect the negative battery cable.
If necessary, remove the power steering belt.
Use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner internal parts.
Remove the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine.

To install:

Begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley the belt was first released from during removal for last.
Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. Carefully release the pressure on the tensioner and it to contact with the belt, making sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check the installation.
Install and properly tension the power steering belt.
Connect the negative battery cable, enter the radio presets, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRESCENTMEI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
My Honda a/c doesn't work (big surprise). The compressor bearing has seized and I want to just remove the belt. But the belt also runs the power steering pump. What size/length belt would I need to just run the P/S pump off of the pulley? Thanks
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Maybe you can get an a/c bypass pulley? Then use the same belt. You would have to remove compressor. I know they make a/c bypass pulley for several makes and models, don't know if they make one for yours? I'd have to check about the belt?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
They do make a/c bypass pulley for your vehicle. For a belt, try napa v belt 060370. Just in case the belt won't work, they should let you take it back.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,235 MILES
I have a haynes manual and the instructions for replacing any belts just says to loosen the tensioner bolt and the adjustment bolt. However when I got down to it I only found one pully assembly that had what I thought would be a tensioner bolt or an adjustment bolt. However tighten or loosen either or all of the bolts on this assembly and the pully doesnt move. Am I missing something? How do I get the belt to go on if I cant adjust the tension to get it to slip over the pulley? Any advice on replacing this belt would be very appreciated.

Thanks
Ryan J
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
If yours looks like the pic I included,(A/C) you have to loosen the nut in the center of the pulley to be able to adjust it.The alt should have a lock nut on the top pivot bolt and an adjusting bolt on the same mount that you llosen to change the belt


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/1639_Graphic_14.jpg

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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I will go back at it again this afternoon. I knew it was something simple like this, ur a godsend sir.

Thanks
Ryan J
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Ok so I got the belt on there but now it either squeaks so loud u cant hear urself think or it sounds like its to loose I cant find a happy medium in adjustment. Any suggestions there?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I finally got the belt to stop squeaking. Possibly overtightened it though because I left the car running and went back inside when I came out a few minutes later the car was off. I went and started it again and it stayed on for about 10 seconds and turned back off. I loosened the tension bolt to see if this would be able to fix it and it and no it turned off even faster this time. Stupid me went and got in the driver seat and turned it on and pushed the gas petal, the car stayed on but it started squeaking and then smoking so I turned it off and opened the hood. Smoke was coming from the belt area. I could not get the car to stay on so I tried taking the belt back off and tada the car stays on. Its not overheating but now I have no idea what could be causing the car to turn off only when the ac belt is on?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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Wait til it cools down and see if the a/c compressor bearing will turn by hand. Did it throw or break the belt before?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Before this whole problem started I opened the hood because the ac stopped working. It wouldnt blow cold air. The belt was broke and very jagged at the break. The belt looked pretty new though. Compared to the one I bought to replace it they were almost identical.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RYAN.JESSUP
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The ac compressor pulley wont spin by hand no. I imagine this is the issue with it not staying on because its connected to the drive pulley right?
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Sounds like the bearing froze up. This is usually the case when the belt breaks like you described. If the A/C has its own belt, you can still drive the car.
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Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)

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