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1986 Honda Accord underhood fuse box

Tiny
1ACCORDLOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 25,000 MILES
I have checked almost every fuse in the box with the exception of the 30, 40 and 70 fuses by disconntecting the negative cable and hooking a test light to the cable and ground post and pulling the fuses. I found No. 1-10A is the one that made the test light go out. What accessories or componenets are connected to the No. 1-10A fuse in the underhood fuse box?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2009 AT 9:15 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,542 POSTS
Fuse #1 ( 10-amp) is for the PGM-FI Main Relay (+B) and Emission Control Unit (+B)
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Sunday, October 11th, 2009 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi 1accordlover,

You should always click the "Reply to Question " link at lower part of page to continue with the thread.

This would allow the history of the question to be one link and most importantly the technician attending to you would be notifiied when a reply is made.

Due to the overhelming numneber of questions coming in, the any new post has a chance to be missed out as we are not able to answer each and every question.

I have compiled all your queastions and answers into the this thread which is the first of the series of post that you have mede.

For future correspondence, please reply to this post.

I will notify DocFixit about this.
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Sunday, October 25th, 2009 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
1ACCORDLOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you for doing that for me KHLow2008 and thanks for notifying Docfixit about my recent post. I'll be waiting to hear from him.
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Sunday, October 25th, 2009 AT 12:17 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You are welcomed.

I do not have much info to fall backl on as my database does not have much on the solenoids and mostly are very obscure.

However the # 1 fuse is mainly for the Emission Control Unit which controls all the solenoids.

I have seen many control units fail before. It is located under the passenger seat. Remove it to check the pcb for capacitor leaks.
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Monday, October 26th, 2009 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
1ACCORDLOVER
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  • 7 POSTS
I checked the emission control unit and there are no leaks.
Is there any other switch or relay that my be the problem.

By the way the control unit is under the driver's seat.
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Thursday, October 29th, 2009 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Sorry, I mistook it for RH drive vehicles.

Unplug the control unit and perform a parasitic drain test to see if the problem goes away. There is a possibility the PCM is bad and grounding the circuit with ignition switch OFF.
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Friday, October 30th, 2009 AT 11:29 AM
Tiny
1ACCORDLOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I don't know how to perform a parasitic drain test, so could you tell me how to do it.
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Friday, October 30th, 2009 AT 1:41 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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You would need an ammeter to do it.

Disconnect the battery negative terminal and attach an ammeter in between. Check the drain amperage, it should be below 0.08 amp. Anything more than that that means something is draining the battery. Start by puliing the main fuses to check which fuse drops the reading to below 0.08 amp.
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Saturday, October 31st, 2009 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
1ACCORDLOVER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I already know which fuse is causing the problem it's #1-10a. If you read my thread you will find that I have already checked the fuses. I used the method on your website removing negative ground and hooking a test light to the cable and touching other end to the ground on the battery and pulling fuses to see which one makes the light go out. The result was #1-10a Just to make sure it was that fuse I tried my own method and that was to charge my battery and put each fuse in one at a time. The only other fuses that drew any current were ie; clock, clock on the CD player etc. The normal things but they didn't run the battery down like #1-10a. While I was looking to see if there was a relay or loose connection I had to remove the air duct. I saw this component and just happen to disconnect it to see if the test light would go out and it did. That's when I wrote to find out what the component was. Since there was an electrical connection I thought maybe the component needed to be replaced and that would solve my problem. That's when Docfixit asked me to check the ignition switch. Docfixit asked me to check the several things and I gave him the results. Only wires that were hot with ign switch off are solid white and solid white with blk stripe. Is the parasitic test to find out which fuse is the problem? If it is I've already know It's #1-10a.
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Saturday, October 31st, 2009 AT 3:07 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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While doing the parasitic test, is unplugging the control unit under the drive seat equivalent to removing the # 1 fuse?
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Sunday, November 1st, 2009 AT 5:32 AM

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