Heater not working

Tiny
COCOLAMUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Heat just gets warm. I did a flush, then ran clear water through system. Replaced thermostat with factory thermostat. Also replaced thermostat housing and clamps. Also replaced radiator cap with factory cap.
I have a lazer thermometer, the heater core temperatures on the hoses were around 190 185 enter and exit temperatures flow was good through heater core. Blend door does shift hot to cold and fan works on all four settings.

No accidents I am aware of like a crushed radiator. But what I suspect is broad. Possible heater core, radiator, water pump but not hearing any noise, or seeing any leaks or possible head gasket, I did read something about Chrysler having head bold issues but not sure how that affects this engine. With out seeing an physical evidence, all of these repairs are expensive and may not fix it. So if someone has ran into this issues possible I could pin point this a little better. It is a good little car and easy to work on like brakes exhaust etc. So I would like to keep it. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thursday, October 5th, 2017 AT 9:12 PM

41 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
It sounds like you have a temperature blend door actuator that is not fully operational. Here is a guide to give you an idea of what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Here is what it will be like on your car:

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, October 6th, 2017 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
LILSONJA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,000 MILES
Heater problem
2005 Chrysler Sebring six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 96,000 miles.

My heater works fine while my vehicle is in motion, but when it is not moving i.E. Stopped at a light, it blows cold air. What could be causing this, and what is the estimated repair cost?
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
The coolant has stopped circulating at low engine speed. First check the level in the radiator and overflow reservoir to be sure they are full. Look for the marks on the reservoir. Half full is typically "full". A broken or worn water pump impeller is very common on Volkswagen's but I suppose it could happen on any car. Repair cost depends on which engine you have, how hard it is to replace the pump, and the hourly labor rate. Normally if the circulation stops enough to affect the heater, the engine would be overheating too. I think you will just find low coolant level if the engine is not overheating, because the heater is the first thing to stop working.

Caradiodoc
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDYMELEA
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
Heater problem
2005 Chrysler Sebring Six cylinder wheel drive 98,000 miles.

The heater works and blow out hot air as long as you are going and the rpm's are up but, if you stop and idle it will blow out cold air.
Help I need my heater to work.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Start with cold engine
Fill coolant system and start car run it with heat on ask a helper to give it gas and hold it around 1800 rpm top off the coolant place cap on.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGELKISNYOU
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,000 MILES
Heater problem
2005 Chrysler Sebring six cylinder two wheel drive automatic 43,000 miles.

Well to start off, my car used to heat up really fast after sitting all day while at work. Now it takes for ever for just the heater to kick on. I will be driving down the road with the heater on full blast heat and all the highest it can go, and all the sudden it is full on cold air then all the sudden it will go hot again. I look at the temperature gauge all the time and it never really seems to change in temperature. Usual stays about half or should I say in the middle. What does this usual mean? Please help. Thanks
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ROWTIEAR
  • MEMBER
  • 91 POSTS
It sounds like your coolant is low in the radiator and it is not circulating properly.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FCNOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
Heater problem
2004 Chrysler Sebring six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 70,000 miles.

I have a no heat condition inside the car, any position. Radiator is full, engine at normal operating temperature, heater hoses to and from the heater core engine temperature hot (finger burning when hoses are touched). All blower speeds work, air conditioner works. Air from vents with A/C off just above outside air temperature (thermometer checked) with A/C on drops into the fifties (about seventy outside). Removed the knob control panel, disconnected and reconnected all wire looms (only two, one for fan speed, one for everything else). All positions switch (feet, vents, defroster and everything in between). Is it the knob control assembly or is there something else it could be? Car runs fine, just no heat.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello,

If you do need to get back with me please tell me if your model is just the Sebring or the GTC or Limited and the engine size in liter.

Looks like you did a lot of troubleshooting I did read that you checked the heater hoses at the firewall where they go in and out and they are the same temperature?

The only thing I can think of right now looking at the manual is the Air Mix Damper door. Below is the directions for setting up it after removeal... It may be out of adjustment or the cable clip came off and the cable came off.

>> A
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:51 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello,

Also, it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_SEbring_recalls_2.jpg


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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FCNOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for the reply!

The car is a Sebring Convertible Limited, V6 2.7 liter.

Both hoses going to and from the heater core are hot. I have bled the bleeder valve with little to no air coming out.

On which side of the dash would this control be located? I have pulled the glove box and lower panel on the passenger side, but saw nothing like the picture. Also, I have not found any cables going to any of the dash controls, its all wires.

I had to have the water pump replaced (to the tune of $1,100.00) in July. Is this no heat condition possibly a result of that? Could something have been left disconnected?

Thanks for the help. This is driving me crazy!
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello,

Thanks for the information.

Now that I have the information on your specific model, it appears it may be all electrical as you have indicated especially since you have done all the work and saw there were no cables great job!

I would say it may be the blend door actuator. It is electrically controlled by a potentiometer in the actuator and allows the BCM to know the exact position of the blend door at all times.

It appears there may be the mode actuator control right next to it. If it were me I would check with the parts department to see if they are the same part number. If so swap them and if it then works that is your problem.

Here is the info below on it.

DESCRIPTION:

The blend door actuator is a motor/geartrain assembly which mechanically positions the blend door. The actuator is mounted to the bottom of the HVAC housing in the center.

OPERATION:

A potentiometer in the actuator allows the BCM to know the exact position of the blend door at all times. The blend door actuator is not serviceable and must be replaced if found to be defective.

REMOVAL:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

2. Remove the passengerside hush panel.

3. Disconnect the electrical connection.

4. Remove actuator retaining screws and pull actuator straight down (Fig. 24 ). Note actuator shaft position for installation reference.

Fig. 24: Identifying Blend Door Actuator
Courtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_24_3.jpg



INSTALLATION:

1. Install blend door actuator on the housing, making sure the shaft spline is positioned properly with the cam (Fig. 25 ).

Fig. 25: Identifying Blend Actuator Spline
Courtesy of DAIMLERCHRYSLER CORP.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_25_2.jpg



2. Install tighten the actuator mounting.

3. Connect wire harness connector to the actuator.

4. Install the passengerside hush panel.

5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FCNOTA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
You were right on the money!
Last night I tore the car apart looking for the cables and stuff and found the two actuators. One moved, one did not. Saw your email this am, went out and picked up the actuator, put it in the car this evening, heat! Was a pain, had to take the stereo, CD player, glove box and entire center and right side dash covering off to get one bolt off and on the actuator, but it was worth it.
It is very important to disconnect the negative cable. It resets the system or something. I did not remember to do it at first, and it did not work. I went back over the directions, disconnected the cable for about three minutes reconnected everything and it works fine.

Thank you for the help! I will be back again!
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,112 POSTS
Hello,

Fantastic! I have to tell you that you did a fantastic job troubleshooting and providing all the data thanks for that.

You are correct I think they build the HVAC system then say build the car around it and make it really hard to get to everything.

Glad you got it working winter is coming on!

Please do not forget to check on those recall, especially the Fuel pump ones, rear seat belt and the brake one. Those should be free to repair.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VITAL2K
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 87,000 MILES
Hello,

Please, help! 2004 Chrysler Sebring coupe two door. There is no heat from the heater. All the posts I found about this problem reflect the procedures for the regular sedan which is completely different from coupe version. Can you help me to fix my coupe?
Thank you in advance!
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
First of all, does the temperature gauge read in the normal range when the engine is warmed up? If it does not, feel the upper radiator hose. If it is cool, suspect the thermostat. If it is too hot to hold onto for very long, feel the heater hoses. They should also be too hot to hold onto for very long. If the radiator hose is real hot but the heater hoses are cool, the heater core could be plugged. Disconnect the heater hoses and flush the core out with a garden hose.

If the heater hoses are real hot but the air inside is not, the controller and actuators will need to be diagnosed.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VITAL2K
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Hello,

Thank you for your reply! After driving a while I turned the heat control to full heat position and checked the hoses. All three hoses (from top of radiator, both from the heater radiator) are hard to hold onto for a long time. All of them are hot. The air inside is a little warm as it was, but not warm enough considering it is a summer time.
Can you explain how to diagnose the controller and actuator? I do not have a Chrysler dealer in my city.
Thank you.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
I have never had one of those apart so I do not know how they are controlled. If you work the mode and temperature controls and everything seems to switch correctly, you might just have a plugged heater core. The two heater hoses come around to the front of the engine as metal pipes with what looks like about six to eight inches of rubber hose. (I just went through this with someone else). You can pull those rubber hoses off and run water through the heater core from a garden hose.

If that does not help, or you do not hear anything moving in the dash when you work the controls, I will have to try to figure out a diagnostic procedure.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VITAL2K
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you for your help. I will flush the heater radiator as you suggested.
It seems that the radiator is clogged. I tested the hoses again but this time I started the engine from cold and waited until the upper radiator hose became warm, then I checked the upper hose of the heater radiator which became warm too, but the lower hose was still cold.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BEEMER605
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,346 MILES
Heater problem
2004 Chrysler Sebring six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 60,346 miles.

No matter where I set the air flow direction I get no floor heat. Defrost and vents work fine.
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Saturday, October 7th, 2017 AT 11:52 AM (Merged)

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