Heater not working properly

Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Hi everyone,

I am finally back, and with a new ride! Unfortunately, the old Taurus I owned just a few months ago gave out and she blew her AC out, had to get rid of it. I am now driving a sweet car listed above it is an EX-L and I love it so far. However, with winter weathers creeping around the corner, it has been getting pretty chilly outside now and now would be the perfect time to kick the heater on, or so I thought. Having heat in the car is a luxury, the Taurus I owned never had a working heat and I tried every trick in the book over the course of 4 years to fix it with no avail. This car has great AC, but I noticed that when I tried to kick the heat on, the higher I turned the temperature on, the air would start blowing from the windshield defrost and not the vents in front of me, when I kick it down to cool, AC starts coming out perfectly through the vents, any guesses?

I would appreciate it!
Thursday, October 31st, 2019 AT 10:27 AM

38 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros. And welcome back:

This is an interesting issue because the when you increase the temp, the blend air door actuator is what should react. When you change direction of air flow, there is a different actuator which should respond, the mode door actuator. I think what we should start with is the mode door actuator. What I would like you to do is disconnect it and see if changing the temperature still has an affect on air flow direction. If it does, then we will need to inspect the mode door itself.

The mode actuator is located on the HVAC box under the dash. If you look at the attached picture, I highlighted both the mode door actuator and blend air door (air mix) actuator. You can see they are not close. That is what is causing me confusion.

Regardless, if we find air flow changes after the mode is disconnected, we will have to inspect the door and make sure nothing is loose or disconnected.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Thanks for the information! Thankfully I have warranty with my dealer so they will be inspecting it, free of charge, on Saturday morning. I will let you know what they say.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

Happy to help. Let me know what you find. I'm interested in knowing what they find.

Have a good weekend,

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
Got the call from the dealer just 15 minutes ago, turns out all the actuators and doors are working as they should, it is the heater core that has some “calcium build-up” which is clogging it and preventing heat from flowing out. They want $570.00 for labor and parts since my warranty plan does not cover the service since it is not a part replacement. Can I do this myself because I don’t plan on spending that amount of money?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
Here’s the invoice.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

I can't quite read the RO. Are they replacing the heater core or are they going to flush it? I would try flushing it first.

If it is a flush, you can do it. I attached two pictures below. The first one shows the heater hoses and how they connect to the core under the hood at the fire wall. The second pic is an exploded view of the heater core. I circled the core, and the steel hoses which come through the firewall into the engine compartment.

In pic 1, you will see the hoses disconnected. That it the what you have to do, disconnect the hoses. However, you will need to drain the cooling system partially to prevent coolant from leaking when you remove the hoses. You will still have some loss at the hoses, but it should be minimum.

Once coolant is drained in the radiator (about half way down), remove the hoses. At that point, take your garden hose and spray water through one of the two steel lines. Water will come out the other steel hose. Do this until the water is clear.

Next, reverse flush it. Basically, spray the water into the other tube until it is clean. If water comes out easily and is clean, you're done.

Reconnect the hoses and refill the coolant. Once the coolant is full, turn the heater on high and start the engine. Allow it to warm up. It should bleed the air from the system itself. If it doesn't, let me know.

Please let me know if you have questions or need help. Also, let me know if this takes care of the problem. One more thought, I find it a lot easier if I have a piece of heater hose long enough to push on to one of the steel heater core tubes so I can just spray the water into that. It's easier because first, you aren't trying to reach for the heater core tube with your garden hose, and second, it's rubber so it's easier to spray water into it.

If you decide to get the hose, get about a 3 foot section from any parts store. While at the parts store, see if they have any flush products specifically for heater cores. They will have radiator flush, but I question if that will work for this.

Take care and let me know how it goes.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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They said it needs a flush, not a heater core replacement which is better for me! But thank you, I will definitely be trying this!
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Welcome back:

I can't believe they were charging you that much for a flush. Wow! That is something which would be under $100.00 here. I just don't understand things anymore. I had a customer that was quoted $1,400.00 to replace an alternator in a Honda this past week by a well known national chain. I did it for $250.00. I guess one of two things. Either I'm just getting old or I need to raise my prices. LOL It must be age. I couldn't do that to someone.

Take care and feel free to let me know if you need help. Also, let me know if this helps take care of the problem.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
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Yeah I definitely knew it was a rip-off as soon as they told me the price through the phone. I will be doing it myself as I just located the two hoses going into the firewall and there is plenty of wiggle room to remove them so it should not be too hard, dealer prices in general are known to be ridiculous!
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Let me know how it works out for you.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
Hey there,

Finally got around to attempt to fix this issue of mine. Bought some clear rubber hose from Lowe's, got some fresh coolant and got started. Man was it a pain in the ass to remove these two heater hoses after removing the clamps, I had to remove that long stabilizer bar on top of the engine in order to have more room for my arms and hands, along with more leverage. As soon as I started flushing the core with my garden hose, I noticed a faint amount of particles flowing out but mostly really light green coolant coming out. I sealed it all up, started the car with the heat on high, and drove around for a bit, I still have no heat.

What gives?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Wow, that looks really clean. And you have no heat? Were you able to bleed the air from the system? Do both heater core hoses get hot when the engine is warmed up and the heater is on high?

As clean as that is, the core most certainly isn't plugged.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
I did not check the temperature of the hoses, I do have a temperature gun that I can use tomorrow to check that. But yeah, it certainly wasn’t clogged from the looks of it, that Honda dealer should really reconsider the “technicians” they hire, I do not know where they got that it was clogged. My guess is that it is a blend door issue, because whenever I turn the temperature all the way up to “hot”, the air starts blowing from the defrost and from under the dash. What do you think?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
I agree. It is an actuator issue. Let me know what you find with the temperature.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
Where are the actuators in this particular vehicle?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
Update.

I went ahead and messed around with the AC controls, as there are so many buttons on the dashboard, and I managed to change the settings in order for the air to blow out only from the front vents and not the defrost, all while I kicked the temperature all the way up to hot. However, I checked under the dash to look at the blend door actuator and everything is properly working, the lever moves up and down in correlation to the temperature change. The air on the passenger vents is barely warm, and the air on the driver vents is cold, what gives?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Did you try removing the blend door actuator to confirm that the door is moving?
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
No I have not. I would have to try to figure out how to get to it.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Hi,

If you remove the actuator you should be able to see if it moves.

Let me know if I can help.

Joe
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
JGONZO2398
  • MEMBER
  • 356 POSTS
So I checked both heater hoses going into the firewall with a temp gun. The top heater hose reads 135F, bottom hose reads 120F. Both hoses read over 160F from where they start, near the thermostat housing.
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Tuesday, December 1st, 2020 AT 10:46 AM

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