What is the correct adjustment on the headlights?

Hi,

Adjusting the headlamps requires either a special headlamp aimer or a screen. You should be able to set things up with a stationary object like a garage door to aim them.

If you look at the attachments below, they provide the directions for aiming, how to adjust the lights, and distances.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care

Joe

See pics below.

This is a quick way to check and adjust the aim on this style of headlamp. Because both high and low beams are in the same housing and are not individually adjustable you are somewhat limited in getting them correct. The first thing is to be sure you have the correct bulbs and in the correct orientation. I have seen more than one bulb installed either upside down or the bulb was made wrong so it didn't set correctly in the light housing. Once you have that correct the next step is to take some cheap tape like painters tape or similar, that shows up good. Now find a wall that you can drive right up to and can back away about 20 feet from. You want the area to be flat and level up to the wall. Now drive the truck so it's facing the wall with the low beams on. Drive up so you are almost touching the wall. Now get out and use the tape to make a plus sign at the brightest point on the wall in front of each headlamp. Now back straight backwards about 20 feet. Look at where the brightest spot of the low beams are on the wall. If they are about 2" lower and to the right of the original spots, you are in the correct setting. If either one goes up on the markings you need to adjust that light lower. If the light is farther than 2" down then adjust the light up. In both cases you want the brightest area to be to the right side of the center. That way the low beams will shine away from oncoming traffic (In the US, if you are in a country that drives on the left hand side of the road you adjust the lights to the opposite side using the correct bulbs)
Unfortunately with this bulb design you end up with the high beam lamps being wherever they end up as they are not independently adjustable.

This isn't the "proper" method but it works and it's fast to do as a check of the lights.

The reason for that is that the correct optical alignment is only as good as the operator and they are expensive that a DIY will probably never use again. The screen method works just as well but not many have a screen handy. I've used the Q&D method a lot and compared it to all of the other options and it is usually well within the errors the others allow. Oh if you have the work model that still had sealed beams those adjust in the same way but those were rarer.
Be careful what bulbs you use in the housings, they don't cool really well and high power bulbs tend to melt the top of the housing.