Headlights turn off while driving

Tiny
WATKINSFAM5
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • TURBO
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 173,615 MILES
Headlights cut off while driving. The headlight switch was replaced two years ago when it was happening before; but now it is happening again. How do I figure out what’s wrong? All interior lights work along with fog lights.
Tuesday, February 8th, 2022 AT 11:04 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

When this happens, do the lights work on low beam? Also, if you pull the lever for the flash to pass lights, do they work?

Let me know that first, but I suspect the switch has failed again. There is an internal circuit in the switch that can overheat or fail. This will allow the lights to work and then turn off after a certain amount of time.

If you look below, I provided the direction for the removal and replacement of the switch. Actually, the directions are for the removal. However, the installation is simply the reverse of this procedure.

Let me know if you have questions or if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2022 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
WATKINSFAM5
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Sorry for the delayed response. Ty for responding. No, the low beams won’t come on, but fog lights will. When pull lever for flash to pass lights all there is a clicking that wasn’t there before and the radio dash light dims.
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Friday, March 4th, 2022 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi,

I have a feeling it is related to the totally integrated power module (TIPM) which is part of the under-hood fuse box.

The TIPM is a part with a history of failure simply because they design crams many small pins into one connector.

On your vehicle, the TIPM provides power to both headlamps and it also supplies a ground to complete the circuit. In addition, there is a PCB (printed circuit board) which is part of the lighting circuits. That may have failed (non-repairable).

To confirm this is the issue, we need to check for power and ground at the TIPM. If you look at pic 1 below, it shows what I'm referring to. I highlighted and circled the circuits related to left and right. Note the pic indicates "C3" for this group of wires. After that, each wire is identified by a number that is representative of the connector pin.

Where the pic indicates HDLP rtn sig, that is the ground path to complete the circuit. There is only one per side. The beams have two power supplies per side. They will need to be checked.

So, the TIPM will need to be lifted to access the connectors. If you look at pic 2, I highlighted the C3 connector. Pic 3 provides the directions for the removal of the TIPM.

If you look at pics 4 and 5, they show the pins in the connector to check at the TIPM. I highlighted the power pins (drivers) and circled the grounds (returns).

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Before you lift the TIPM, I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Once the TIPM is lifted and you confirm there is nothing touching that can cause a short, then reconnect the battery.

I know this sounds like a headache, but we need to see where the problem is. At this point, I have a feeling it is the PCB since all have failed at the same time. But we need to check for power and ground. Additionally, when you disconnect the C3 connector, inspect the connector pins for damage, corrosion, or anything that can create a problem.

Take care and let me know if you have questions or if I can help in any way.

Joe

See pics below
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Friday, March 4th, 2022 AT 5:52 PM

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