Head light issue?

Tiny
TRM327
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET S-10
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
The headlights come on when the keys are turned on and go off with the key. They work as far as high and low beam when changing, all turn signals, park Lites and brake lights work fine, inside Curtsy Lights work fine. How ever when I unplug the light switch from the harness my inside curtsy lights come on and my head lights and running lights remain on. I checked the DRL sensor in the dash by pulling it and checking continuity, it shows connectivity as does the socket without the sensor in it. The dark green wire and the black wire coming off the wiring harness plug that connects to the light switch also shows connectivity to ground. All the other wires show power on them. 9 wires total. Including the dark green and black. I am not sure what wire should be ground or power with key on. The light switch works for the dome lights and the bypass on it works as does the brightness for gauge lights, but it does not work for the head lights. And like I stated, even with the switch removed the lights are on with key. I cannot figure how the lights are staying on with the switch being omitted from circuit. It seems that I have a short of some kind or maybe a bad BCM. I have no idea where the BCM is located on a 98 S10 regular cab 2-wheel drive. Old school wiring I could handle but thanks to the advancement in distributing power I feel like a bobtailed cat chasing his tail he does not have.
Monday, January 29th, 2024 AT 5:04 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Hi,

There is a headlamp relay that could send power to the lights if it is faulty and stuck closed. Have you checked that? It is located in the under-hood fuse box.

Also, the body control module is under the dash. If I recall correctly, it is mounted on the heater unit. See pic 1 below.

Pics 2 and 3 are the wiring schematic for the headlamps. If you see the relay (highlighted in pic 2) note that if it has shorted internally, the lights could stay on regardless of the switch. I believe if I'm reading the schematic correctly, a ground path is provided via the BCM which then should close the relay. Check the relay first. If there is a different relay with the same part number, switch them as a test. If there isn't, here is a link that explains how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

If that checks good, see if the lights turn off with it removed.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Monday, January 29th, 2024 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
TRM327
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi Joe. Thanks for the diagrams and location of BCM. The diagrams are a great help. I will pull all the relays and test them one by one to ensure they all work. By looking at the diagram with so many, always hot feeds I decided to check each relay out of circuit as well as checking each port they plug into. I will get back with you later today once I have completed all the tests and performed the steps that you advised me to try. I did watch the video on relays, great video very clear and precise. Thanks, Tom
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Tuesday, January 30th, 2024 AT 4:30 AM
Tiny
TRM327
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi Joe. Okay, after pulling and testing all relays, they all check good. The HDLP PWR relay is a 4 pin while the HDLP GRD and FOG LP are 5 pin all were good. After replacing them I pulled the HDLP pwr relay and the lights went off. I pulled the HDLP grd relay the lights went off. I pulled the DRL and Fog LP relays lights stayed on even with both of them out the lights stayed on. So, after looking at the diagram you sent me, I came the conclusion it was 1 of 4 things. A short in the wiring, a bad BCM, A bad park lamp relay in the Bussed electrical center or a faulty photodiode in the dash that tells the lights to come on when it is dark. The photodiode being the simplest and cheapest replacement was where I went first. After finding a replacement at the junk yard for $1 dollar problem solved. Lights turn on and off with the switch now. I would not have been able to get to this point without the diagram and advice you gave me. Thank you very much. Tom
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Tuesday, January 30th, 2024 AT 10:16 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,700 POSTS
Hi,

Tom, you are very welcome, and thank you for the update. I'm glad you found the problem and were able to repair it. You can't beat the price of the part either. LOL

Regardless, take care of yourself, and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe
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Tuesday, January 30th, 2024 AT 8:02 PM

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