Cranks does not start

Tiny
CMARIE3387
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 SATURN L300
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 169,293 MILES
I have read your knowledgeable answers on this site and hopefully you can help
Me as well. I have the car listed above 4 door. I got it used with 169,000 miles in September. My boyfriend replaced the two head gaskets that were leaking. Now everything’s fixed but while he did the head gaskets he took the battery out we bought a used battery and put it back in weeks later after the valve covers were done.
Now, once he fired up the car after the job the car was running for a good minute or two and then shut off. He started and restarted the car but it would turn on then shut off. Now we hear a noise buzzing noise coming from the throttle body, the gas gauge malfunctions when the buzzing from the throttle body is on the gauge is normal at a half a tank when there isn’t any noise the gas gauge says empty with service engine soon, empty tank etc. We sometimes don’t hear the fuel pump humming and then sometimes when he puts it on run we hear it. The car doesn’t start but cranks now tonight we unplugged the throttle body and the car started for a few minutes again then shut off. When we plugged the throttle body back in the car would crank but not start.


1) The car cranks but doesn’t start with throttle body plugged in.
2) Sometimes hearing the fuel pump humming sometimes not.
3) Buzzing sound coming from the throttle body.
4) Car fires up when throttle body is unplugged.


Please help !
Wednesday, November 13th, 2019 AT 3:55 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds like your vehicle either has a bad electrical connector or an intermittent poor connection, or unwanted resistance somewhere in circuit that goes to the fuel pump. In the diagrams down below I have included the wiring diagrams for your vehicle's engine management circuit's, a guide explaining how to find bad electrical connectors, intermittent problems, shorts to grounds, and how to find unwanted resistance in an automotive electrical circuit via voltage drop testing, the preferred method. You will need to use a Digital Multi-meter [DMM] to run these tests, so here is a link below describing how to use one, if needed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, November 14th, 2019 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
CMARIE3387
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
My boyfriend got the car started and it was running perfectly. He put new oil in the car put coolant in and driving him to work last night. I turned it off then turned it on moments later I was in idle and it stalled it kept doing it and got stuck at the gas station. Now on the dash it says reduced power mode and check engine light. So we plugged in the code reader and these 12 codes popped up: p0502, p0503, p0562, p0563, p0601, p0603, p0727, p0756, u2105, p1621, p1779, p1791.

All relate to the PCM/ECM.
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Sunday, November 17th, 2019 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, so let's eat this one bite at a time. There are quite a few Direct Trouble Code's [DTC][s] there. In the diagrams down below I have sent the diagnostic factory troubleshooting guides from the vehicle manufacturer on the first four DTC's in the list. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out. We can go on to the other DTCs from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Sunday, November 17th, 2019 AT 9:49 PM

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