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Hard starting

Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 293,274 MILES
Hey, I'm getting ready to winterize my truck and one of the things I really want to figure out before it gets really really cold is the starting issue I've had for while. So almost every time I go to start it the starter drags, sometimes for a few seconds, this started almost a year ago. First thing I did was have the starter and battery tested, I took it to AutoZone and they tested it twice and both times they said the battery was bad, so a little bit later I bought one off of them, the starting improved but it still dragged, so I took it to the same AutoZone and had it all tested again and this time they said everything was fine, took it to a different one and same result. Not long after like maybe two months the alternator started going out so I replaced it, the starting issue stayed the same, so I thought maybe it's not getting fuel due to a dirty filter, if I leave the ignition on for a few seconds before I start it the issue improves some, but since it's been a few months down the road I'm going to go have the starter tested again. If it comes up as good again what do you think I should be looking for?
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 5:06 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,707 POSTS
Hello thanks for using 2CarPros. What do you mean, the starter drags? Are you talking about an extended crank time before the engine starts?
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
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  • 176 POSTS
Hi, yeah it's a extended crank time with a little bit of struggle at first, it's like the starter almost can't crank it then it speeds up and cranks for a couple of seconds, and a lot of times the motor will start rough but it goes back to running good. I forgot to mention that I also checked for misfires and it has none. It runs good on all 8 eight cylinders.
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,707 POSTS
Okay, is there any check engine light on? A scan of the system might turn up a code to go by. If not the first check is going to be fuel pressure. Here is a quick guide to help with this test. articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure. Another easy check is to see if the MAF (mass air flow) sensor is dirty. If you remove the MAF sensor and look inside, sometimes you will find carbon build up on the inside wires of the sensor. Both of these are relatively easy checks to do. The MAF sensor can be cleaned with a can of MAF sensor cleaner and is a good thing to do anyway. Hope this info helps. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/mass-air-flow-service
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+1
Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 7:13 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 176 POSTS
There is one trouble code that's making the check engine light come on. When I had it checked it was about the catalytic converter efficiency below threshold or something. I didn't really think anything of it because everybody told me it would hurt my fuel mileage at most, when I take it to test everything again I'll have them run the code and let you know what it is. I'll try the MAF sensor cleaning too to see if that helps. I'll also see about having the fuel pressure checked too. I'll update you with new information soon. Thanks for your help!
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 176 POSTS
Also, is AutoZone brand brake cleaner okay to use as a MAF sensor cleaner? Thanks
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Sunday, October 6th, 2019 AT 8:20 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 176 POSTS
Okay, I have updates. First I went and got some MAF sensor cleaner and cleaned the MAF sensor, no difference. Then I went to have the battery and starter tested, battery tested bad, so with the warranty I was able to swap it out for a brand new one, starting issue improved but too soon to tell yet. I also had the codes ran, turns out there are now 3 codes, P0171, P1451, P0174. I looked around on the motor for a second and found a vacuum hose with some deterioration on it, it actually looks like a coupler, it's in the picture below. I'll replace that next chance I can. Not sure if my starting issue has improved, so far it has but the real test will be the first start up in the morning and after work.
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Monday, October 7th, 2019 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,707 POSTS
The 2 codes p0171 and p0174 are both lean codes for bank 1 and 2. A vacuum leak can def cause these codes. Do a fuel pressure test under driving conditions to make sure you're not losing fuel pressure/volume under a load. Another easy test for a vacuum leak (especially around the intake manifold) is to spray some water around the base of the intake manifold. You will hear the water being sucked in while the engine is running. Much safer test than spraying any flammable liquids around a hot engine. As for the p1451 (evap canister vent solenoid circuit malfunction) means the vent solenoid has either lost power, lost control of the solenoid from the ECM, the solenoid has gone bad or there is a wiring problem. But I would start with the lean condition. A stuck rich oxygen sensor can cause a lean condition too. Do you have a scan tool at your disposal?
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Thursday, October 10th, 2019 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
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Hey Al, I sprayed some water around some vacuum hoses and around the intake manifold gasket area and I didn't hear it getting sucked in and the idle didn't change either so I'm going to be looking at the fuel pressure test next. The starting has actually gotten better but there's still a good amount of crank time on cold starting. When I do the fuel pressure test would it be best to do it while cold?
And how would I look for a stuck oxygen sensor? No unfortunately I don't have a scanner tool.
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Friday, October 11th, 2019 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
AL514
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  • 4,707 POSTS
Considering the age and mileage on the truck I would start with the fuel pressure test. Doesn't matter if it's cold or not. A weak pump or clogged filter will definitely cause extended crank especially when cold. A cold engine requires more fuel to start. I'm assuming the fuel pump and filter have never been changed? You may be dealing with multiple problems. Start with fuel pressure so you can at least rule it out as a problem. When testing the pressure check it at idle and 2,000 rpm's. Pressure spec is 30-40 psi.
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 9:00 AM
Tiny
TMCINTOSH11
  • MEMBER
  • 176 POSTS
Gotcha, my next step will be with the fuel pressure test. I'm assuming that it's all original (not sure about the fuel filter) I've had it for almost 2 years. I can try a new fuel filter when I get the chance, it's probably good to just replace that anyway. While I'm thinking about it would there be any fuel additives you would recommend that might help? Thanks for your help!
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Saturday, October 12th, 2019 AT 6:25 PM
Tiny
AL514
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I don't think any additives will help at this point. Lean codes on both banks suggests a lack of fuel in general.
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Sunday, October 13th, 2019 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
AL514
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One thing I forgot to add, is when you do the water test around the intake is to do it when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up the intake will expand due to the engine heat and can close up the vacuum leak and it can hide the problem. So try the water test first thing before the engine heats up. Sorry for not explaining that to begin with. Also spray around the fuel injectors too, a bad injector o-ring can cause a vacuum leak as well.
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Sunday, October 13th, 2019 AT 8:19 AM

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