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Hard shift from first to second when engine is cold

Tiny
JJBURTON5
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 ACURA RSX
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 139,808 MILES
Discovered a strange problem with my auto. When I first start the car up and begin to drive, the car will almost drag on in the first gear, until finally slamming into second with a violent buck. However, for some reason, when the engine has warmed, this violent buck disappears and the car transitions smoothly. The fluid has been changed recently with clean recommended fluid, however, I read that there is also a solenoid that can become clogged near the top of the transmission. The transmission mount bushing is also a bit rough looking. Would this cause the issue despite engine temperature playing a factor?
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Wednesday, May 30th, 2018 AT 2:37 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com. First, sorry for the delayed response. However, hopefully I can help with the problem. A rough shift can be the result of a few things. Keep in mind, although the transmission was recently serviced, it still could be low on fluid. That is the first thing I would confirm is correct.
If that is correct, there are pressure control solenoids. Here are the directions to check them:

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2004 Acura RSX L4-2.0L
Vehicle  Powertrain Management  Transmission Control Systems  Pressure Regulating Solenoid  Testing and Inspection  A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A TEST
Test
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid valve A connector. STANDARD: About 5 ohms
If the resistance is out of standard, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard.
If no sound is heard, remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve moves.
Disconnect one of the battery terminals and check for valve movement.
NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A body.
If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.

______________________________________________________________________________

2004 Acura RSX L4-2.0L
Vehicle  Powertrain Management  Transmission Control Systems  Pressure Regulating Solenoid  Testing and Inspection  A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves B and C Test
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVES B AND C TEST
Test
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors.
Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid valve B connector, and measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid valve C connector. STANDARD: About 5 ohms
If the resistance of either A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is out of standard, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C.
Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard.
If no sound is heard, remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C.
Check the fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve for dust or dirt.
Connect the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 2 terminal to the battery negative terminal. Make sure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C move.
Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement.
NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C body.
If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C.

_________________________________________________________________________

If you determine one is bad, here are the directions for replacement.

2004 Acura RSX L4-2.0L
Vehicle  Powertrain Management  Transmission Control Systems  Pressure Regulating Solenoid  Service and Repair  A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A REPLACEMENT
Replacement
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
Remove the mounting bolts and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
Remove the ATF pipe (B), ATF joint pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E).
Clean the mounting surface and fluid passage of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and transmission housing.
Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and ATF joint pipes.
Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes.
Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect it securely.
Install the air cleaner housing.

_______________________________________________________________________________________

CONVERSION CALCULATOR

2004 Acura RSX L4-2.0L
Vehicle  Powertrain Management  Transmission Control Systems  Pressure Regulating Solenoid  Service and Repair  A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valves B & C Replacement
A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVES B & C REPLACEMENT
Replacement
Remove the air cleaner housing.
Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors.
Remove the mounting bolts, harness clamp brackets (A), and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C.
Remove the ATF joint pipes (D), O-rings (E), and gasket (F).
Clean the mounting surface and fluid passages of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C and transmission housing.
Install the new gasket on the transmission housing, and install the ATF joint pipes.
Install the new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes.
Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C, and harness clamp brackets.
Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect them securely.
Install the air cleaner housing.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, June 1st, 2018 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
JJBURTON5
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Thank you for your very detailed response. No worries about any delay. The car is currently at a garage for a safety inspection so as soon as I retrieve it I will be sure to let you know what I find. I will be in touch.
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Saturday, June 2nd, 2018 AT 5:24 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Sounds like a plan. Keep me in the loop. If I can help, I will.

Have a great weekend!
Joe
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Saturday, June 2nd, 2018 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
JJBURTON5
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
I have received my car back from the garage (finally), happily passing with flying colors. I have had the chance to check solenoid A, which has made a very loud audible clicking when connected with my improvised alligator clips. I still removed it to take a look inside and it is spotless. Also checked the ATF and it is right up on the top level of the etched portion of the dipstick. Very clean as well. Here is a photo of both the mount and solenoid A’s internals. I will be sure to update you when I do B and C, but I will likely remove it to do the test as the alligator clamps are a little too close together for my liking (risking a short circuit). I will follow up with more photos as I explore.
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Wednesday, June 13th, 2018 AT 11:42 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,623 POSTS
You are getting closer. I am wondering if you have an engine coolant temperature sensor causing the issue. If the sensor is off the PCM can enhance the shift to match the driving conditions.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing the sensor out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Here is where it is on your car (below).

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, June 17th, 2018 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
JJBURTON5
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Hi Ken, thank you for your response. I did not realize that coolant had an effect on shifting, quite neat! Was about to tackle the sensor, but I have quickly discovered that my coolant reserve is actually dangerously low, as in, far below the minimum. Is it possible that the fluid level could be causing this issue? If so I will top it up and test to see if it yields any results.
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Monday, June 18th, 2018 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep it sure can, let us know what happens.
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Tuesday, June 19th, 2018 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
JJBURTON5
  • MEMBER
  • 27 POSTS
Finally got around to solenoids B and C, after testing they did make a clicking noise but very lowly. After removing the solenoid I discovered a residue built up around the input/output tubes. After spraying with cleaner, and placing the tubes back one by one, I have driven the car back and forth to work the past few days. Progressively the shifting has gotten much smoother with more use, and now there is no violent buck at all and shifting occurs at a much faster pace. It seems that may have been the solution to the problem. I will be sure to do a coolant flush later as I am not too sure what kind of coolant was previously used. All in all, thank you both JacobandNickolas and Ken, your knowledge was of great help. All the best.
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Friday, June 22nd, 2018 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,623 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, June 23rd, 2018 AT 11:58 AM

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