Grounded starting system out

Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
Car listed above is an Le model.
i believe I have 2 different problems that simultaneously happened at the same time.
1. Aftermarket stereo system put in with a review camera. Which my ex wired to the break and revise together. I hit a dip going a little to fast which caused my car shake. As I applied pressure on the brake right after the stereo would dim out and then off, same with the power of my car to when I was at a complete stop I had to restart my car. After restarting it the very next time the lost off power happened again but this time I did a "California roll" without stopping completely and kept my foot on the gas. Repeat of this action nor any other problems continued.
2. About 2 weeks later driving on a highway with a small incline I rapidly switched between gears D, 2, 1, 2, D. (About 3 seconds). My car then lost power gradually, allowing me enough time to pull over from the last track lane before losing power completely. It would not start and only cracked over 2 times before no power, during which time it started to smoke and leak fluid, after lifting the hood I noticed a spray of oil all over the place. Also the metal bar that keeps the battery down was on top of the positive side, and was burnt off on the side connecting to car. There was no loss of coolant nor any oil in the coolant. The car did not run hot and all fluids were topped off right before the start of the trip including a full tank of gas.
it didn't read any codes at first.
i also cut out the alarm system which I believe to be factory installed because it was the same they used for that year, but have been told it was aftermarket.


aftermarket stereo has been removed and camera disabled.
battery and battery cables were replaced.
Alternator was tested and passed.
starter was tested and failed, has been replaced.

starter relay and fuse replaced, housing ports for both lost power and are now getting power directly from battery positive along with the Head fuse.
received code from obd 1 output under the hood as code 31- which manual states to be the vehicle speed sensor, which was replace and harness was tested to work.
i pulled the spark plugs and the cylinder 1 had oil in it and the plug was bad. Replaced cylinder 1 and 3 spark plugs and replaced the valve cover gasket, including a oil change and new filter.
after doing more research on the internet I then found that code 31 was really for the MAP sensor. I then took a reading from obd2 port under driver kick panel which gave me P0105 code which indeed is the MAP sensor replaced and tested harness as working.
i then notice 5 fuse under the driver side kick panel wasn't receiving power. Between my 15A power outlet and my 15A CIG fuses I was able to transfer over power to those fuses.
my car still will not crank or turn over I have power on dash and one headlight doesn't work (which I believe has to do with Head fuse under hood getting power directly from the battery).
as of now I have no clear what or where to look for next. Any Help would be amazing.
Sunday, July 11th, 2021 AT 11:42 AM

28 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi,

First, I'm not sure how you provided power to the fuses that were dead, but make sure they are safe from being damaged and shorted. Also, as far as the battery is concerned, you're lucky it didn't catch fire.

Regardless, I don't think the radio caused the problem and I don't know if it was an aftermarket anti-theft system removed. So, I have to start at the beginning.

Let's figure out why the starter won't engage and start the engine.

I attached the wiring schematic below of the starting system. The first thing I need you to do is check the AM2 fuse and the main fuse in the underhood fuse box. Now, in addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from them.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If the fuses are good and have power, switch the starter relay with a different one in the box having the same part number. If there isn't one, here is a link that shows how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Pic 3 below shows the fuses and relay location in the box.

Check those and let me know what is found. Note: I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable. I did, however, overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

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Sunday, July 11th, 2021 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Hey Joe thanks for the info. So I check all of my relays by testing for continuity adding power and then checking continuity between 30 and 87 and also by the light testing it two of my relays has corrosion on them so I checked the circuits which they came out of I have no continuity coming from 30 terminal when applying power. What should I do next? The two relays are my head relay and my main engine relay.
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Monday, July 12th, 2021 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Are you not getting power to the relays? Is that what you mean?

Do me a favor. Take a look at the attached pics below and let me know if that is how you tested the relay.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Monday, July 12th, 2021 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
That helped me out a lot. It's definitely a bad relay. Do you have that diagram for the head relay and efi and starter relays? Also how would I check the part which they plug into that it is working.
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Tuesday, July 13th, 2021 AT 12:03 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Are you looking for the location of those relays or do you want the wiring schematics? As far as the relays, here is a link that shows how to check one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, July 13th, 2021 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
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  • 19 POSTS
Thanks and the wiring schematic would be very useful.
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Tuesday, July 13th, 2021 AT 8:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi,

You're very welcome. I attached the power distribution wiring schematics below. I had to cut them in half to make them readable, but they are overlapped so you can follow them.

I hope this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Tuesday, July 13th, 2021 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
How would I wire positive and negative on these?
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

In this case, it is really based on what you are powering. In most cases, power (+) enters one side of the fuse and the opposite side goes to what is being powered. A ground is provided from a different supply.

If you were to hook positive on one side and negative on the opposite, you would be causing a direct short and it (hopefully) will blow the fuse.

I tried to draw a pic of what I'm saying. Don't laugh at it. LOL Look at the pic below and you'll see how the circuit could be completed. Power flows from the battery, through the fuse, to the component, and then to the ground. I used a radio as an example.

I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you understand.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
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Great pic. I get the point of fuses I just don't know how I would wire the fuse block I sent the pic of. Like what do I connect to the spade outputs. On the fuse block.
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 9:21 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I circled in the colors that corresponds to the terminals on the battery for the screw (busbar) I know some people use separate bars for negative and positive but is it possible to use the same Bar for both? As for the fuse block would on side going to the positive of my battery and the other to the original circuit?
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
If I understand correctly, no, you can use the same bar for both positive and negative. That will create a short.

I'm sorry if I misunderstood you. If you feel I have, let me know.

I just noticed that you had two posts. What are you going to power with each fuse?

Joe
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
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Okay, I understand now I cannot use the same bar.
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 9:40 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
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Will this work?
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Sunday, July 18th, 2021 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I believe that will work. You just don't want to hook a ground and positive up to the same bar.

Let me know if that helps.

Joe
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Monday, July 19th, 2021 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
Okay, and if I wanted to add a circuit breaker and fuses. Would this diagram work? I drew it up hope you can make sense of it. I figure once the original fuses gain power back they will already be grounded to their original sources.
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Tuesday, July 20th, 2021 AT 5:40 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,867 POSTS
Hi,

It's really hard for me to understand what I'm looking at. As long as you take power through the fuse to the component it is to power, the ground should be provided by the component.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 20th, 2021 AT 8:09 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
So everything work, but now my cruise light is flashing.
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2021 AT 12:29 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

I'm glad to hear everything works. The CC is a concern. Does this happen all the time or only when you request it to turn on?

Let me know.

Joe

By the way, great job on the wiring.
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Wednesday, July 28th, 2021 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
LBCHIC562
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  • 19 POSTS
As of now only when I try to start my car. Which I still actually haven't gotten my car to start yet.
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Thursday, July 29th, 2021 AT 2:03 AM

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