ABS light on

Thank you, will check it out and let you know. The lights are currently out. May have to wait until they come on again.

I am fairly mechanically inclined worked on my cars except not much
knowledge on ABS systems.

First off started with when starting from a stop or in the morning
there would be a couple of clunks. As if the transmission did not engage.
If I pushed the TOC button it didn't happen or (automatic transmission).
I put it in first or second gear "clunks" did not happen.

Then the brakes froze/locked up the other day not fully. The "gets hot then fully locked."
But even after some cool down still had to be towed.

I've worked on brakes a bunch on my old cars trucks.
I did a bunch of reading on this, so I am not just "blind" asking this question.
Just no ABS knowledge.

Brakes froze on overheating
1.) Master Cylinder well that was replaced about five years ago.
Currently the car is up on blocks and I have removed all the calipers.
Well the calipers are just "hanging" as it were. So nothing touching the pads directly.

Yesterday and today turning the engine pressing the accelerator.
A lot of "clicking" and clunking (new type) from the passenger right front.
Which is the ABS actuator.
The noise only starts when I push the accelerator IE: increase rotation on the wheels.

If I push the "TOC Button" disengages tracking control the "clicking" noise from Actuator and clunking stops.

2.) Checked the Tone Rings. Fine no cracks missing teeth etc.
3.) Brake pedal free play is fine.

4.) I have an Actron Auto Scanner CP9575.
No codes are shown to this problem.
Maybe 2003 model doesn't show any ABS information (most likely).

With the calipers off the wheels I don't think master cylinder.
Tone Rings intact.
No way to analyze sensors of ABS system with Actron.
The ABS light does not come on except after extensive "testing, "
that is it doesn't automatically come on.

Thanks a bunch group.

I took out the ABS fuses. Now no more noise from the ABS Actuator.
I've now noticed a grind/noise from left rear. The other wheels spin freely when in drive. This one does not.

Original problem front brakes freeze may have been caused by free play in stop light switch as it had come loose the day before. And I probably took out the correct free play. Thus the master cylinder not resetting when I headed to work the next morning.

Obviously will be checking out problem rear wheel. To get that sorted out.
Old car probably never had wheel bearing replaced.

Well it looks like the original problem was caused by my adjusting the stop light and free play in the brake pedal the night before the problem started.

The rear right grinding, as I had removed the calipers on all wheels for testing.
The "plate" (sorry I'm tired now) that you remove to access the inside of the wheel where the parking brake drums are.

The two small Phillips head screws that hold it in place were not there. So it was moving off as the wheel spun and must have been grinding on the parking brake drums.
As I am not the original owner. But have the vehicle for 9 years. I had not worked on that area except for replacing the disk brake pads. Not investigating those Phillip head screws that hold the plate to the unit.

Well I learned a lot along the way. Gave the brakes a good flush clearing out some old junk.
Cheers, hope some of this helps other people. :-)

I recently had my front break pads and rotors replaced. There was some squeaking, I went back and had the garage check, all was okay. Wagner pads sometimes make this noise. Today my break light and battery light came on. Then my ABS light, My Radio started to cut in and out and went off and my air bag light came on.
Any thoughts on this problem?