Engine hesitation and transmission not shifting properly

Hi,

If the engine is running hot, that could be the cause. Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running? If so, have you scanned the computer for codes? If not, that should be done. Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but oftentimes a parts store will do it free of charge.

Next, I am not aware of any issues with a false reading for the engine temperature. I just checked for technical service bulletins and found none. If it is showing hot, chances are it is. Make sure the coolant is clean and full. If it is, also confirm the cooling fans turn on when the engine is hot. If they are on, suspect the thermostat.

Take a look through this link and let me know if it seems to mirror what you experience:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-coolant-temperature-sensor

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Thank you for your answer. I checked the ohm readout on the temperature sensor and it is way off. I notice that the wires to the sensor have crumbling wire protection coating. Can I diy this with new wire?

Hi,

As far as replacing the sensor, you should be fine. I attached the directions below. You will need to drain the coolant level below the sensor or you will end up with a mess. LOL

As far as the wiring, is the entire wire bad? Is it something you could use heat shrink on or electrical tape?

Joe

Hi Joe, you are like my ghost angel. Thank you for the help. As far as the wiring goes, the wires themselves look intact. They are covered with a braided tech flex wrap which I will have to take off to get some shrink wrap around the wires. Do I need to replace the tech flex afterward or will the shrink wrap suffice?

Hi,

If you need to remove the braided covering, you should be able to put it back over the wiring and then tape it in place by wrapping electrical tape around it.

If you send me a couple of pics of what you are dealing with, I may be able to give you better suggestions.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

I'll take some pics tomorrow and send them off to you from the shop! Again, thank you so much for your help.

I don't think there is going to be room to work around getting the new wire protection on with the braided covering in place but I'll know better tomorrow!

Hi,

Sounds good. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe!

Totally depressed!! Changed the coolant sensor, wiring rehabilitated - OMG what an ordeal but got it done. Out for a test drive and boom, no change. Runs beautifully until hot then won't upshift after a hill. Can force into 2nd from low but what a mess. I am wondering if it can be as simple as an airlock in the coolant system. When replacing the sensor, I didn't bleed first so was prepared for leaking as I took out the old sensor, nothing. However, the reservoir is full.

I know nothing about car engines so am working only with common sense. I am grateful that you are at the other end of my insidious questions.

Thanks again Joe.

Hi Puppyleo.

It sounds like you might have multiple issues, i would recommend to start from the beginning.
First is to scan for codes, the second is to allow to idle and monitor the temperature, remember to inspect transmission oil for any burn smell and if it is full according to Ford dipstick. Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.
I am glad to help you, if there is anything else we can help you with please contact us again. Thank you for choosing 2CarPros. Take a look at the chart for diagnosis connector.
Cheers, Nick

After replacing the obvious sensors etc., it is now down to the water pump. I purchased one and have to replace it myself. Is there a video you know about to give me a blow by blow. I know it is a difficult job but don't have a choice re tackling it myself. The car is 1996 Ford Contour 2.0 litre, 4 cylinder.

Many thanks indeed.

Hi,

The camshaft timing belt needs to be removed. I am going to first give the directions for the pump replacement. After that, I will include the belt directions. You will need a couple of special tools to accurately time the cams. They are indicated in the directions. I believe you should be able to rent or borrow them from a parts store.

Once you get it back together, turn the engine several rotations to make sure there is no binding. If there is, don't force it. Instead, recheck the timing marks.

Interestingly, (and this is from memory) the 2.0 DOHC in a Contour shouldn't be an interference engine. However, the same engine in the Ford Probe was. So, that's why I'm recommending turning the engine several times first.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

The water pump on this car seems to be driven by the serpentine belt. Do I still have to go through all the camshaft timing belt steps?

Hi,

Unfortunately, yes. Although it is driven by the serpentine belt, it is mounted to the engine block behind the timing belt. I have to be honest with you. It isn't an easy job on this vehicle. Make sure you are 100% sure the pump is bad.

I will try my best to help you from here, so don't worry about asking questions.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Finally got code reader. Code PO133 "Circuit slow response" (Bank 1, Sensor 1)

Don't have a clue what to do with that information. The reader only gave that one code for my problems. Optimistic until I know what that code really means.

Thanks Joe

Have been reading up on O2 sensors. Nothing seems to indicate trouble with engine running at high temperatures. No other reading on the reader which is about impossible in my mind.

I should further explain fuel pump issue. I don't know for sure it is gone. What I do know is that the pulley is making a lot of noise and doesn't run true to balance. It appears to be rough running and wobbles - big word to describe a little "shake" back and forth. Sounds like the whole thing wants to be bathed in oil! Water pump pulley has been discontinued, so if in fact there is a bearing in the apparatus, the only thing I can think of is to take it to a bearing company and put a new one in.

What do you think? I really don't know if there is a bearing in that pulley. Can't find any info. At this point, I will go to fantastic lengths to avoid replacing the water pump! Although I'm sure I can tackle it with all your help, it is, in the long run, daunting!!

So, I will wait for you to opine and we'll go from there.

Cheers!

Hi,

The code indicates the sensor is slow to respond. That can be caused by several different things. For example, the obvious, the sensor could be bad. Also, an exhaust leak, engine vacuum leak, and even a wiring issue can cause the code to set.

IF the water pump is making noise and has a wobble, the bearing is bad. With the engine off, see if you can wiggle the pulley. Also, if you can possibly record it and upload it for me to see, it may help.

As far as the bearing, it isn't one that can be pressed in. The new pump will have a new bearing.

Let me know if I can help or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Hi Joe,

Cell phones don't work where we are so I will try to get a video with my computer. Water pump didn't arrive, so pick it up Tuesday morning.. Should the reader have told me about the pump? I don't know enough about them.

Thanks again for your help - so so appreciated.

Hi,

The water pump shouldn't have set the code. However, if the vehicle is running hot, that could lead to other sensors indicating a problem.

Let me know how things turn out for you. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care and let me know if I can help.

Joe