Fuse block or pcm- fuel pump

Ps: This is the only way I can drive my car the way I have it wired, which is fine temporarily, but the only problem ( and not a big one) is that the key will not turn off the engine this way. The only way to kill the engine is to flip the f/p switch I installed and then turn off and remove the key. Just out of curiosity, is pin 87 oconnected to or powered by the coil thus keeping the car running when key is turned off?

Well, I already used a small pipe cleaner and electronic spay. Also, I took the fuse box apart and found no loose or burned wire

So, does it sound more like a bad box or a bad pcm?

Well, it is getting power provided by the battery but pin 86 isnt getting any power to the relay coil which means either bad pcm or broken wire between pcm and fuse box, which I saw none?

Thank you sir for replying and bearing with me. And yes, there is a certain amount of guessing on my part, but only because I have asked 3 different "experts" so far about my problem and have gotten 3 different answers. This is a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero with a 2.4 L engine. I'm sorry but I thought I had said that before. Some say pin #85 is ground and pin #86 is hot coming out of the PCM. Others say the opposite. Some say pin #87 is always hot with the key in the "on" position. You seem to be telling me that pin #87 is getting it's hot from the oil pressure sending unit (which would only be hot once the engine achieves oil pressure, ie; during cranking or running) That makes more sense to me at least over the others. Also, some say pin # 30 is the grey wire leading straight to the fuel pump. You seem to be saying that it powers the injectors. Unless, you meant that it powers both. If I understand you correctly, you seem to be indicating that 86 is always ground to the coil inside the relay and 85 supplies hot from the PCM to the coil for 2 seconds which closes the contacts between 87 and 30 and primes the fuel pump. Where I'm getting confused is this: With the key in the "on" position (and not cranking or running) then how is 87 getting power from the oil sending unit to power the fuel pump on for 2 seconds? Are you saying that THAT power comes from the PCM itself via pin 85 for 2 seconds and then once cranking or running the coil opens back up and then the power comes from the oil sending unit? ( In other words the little coil inside the relay is only energized for 2 seconds to prime the pump and then the rest of the time it's open as long as the engine is running and has oil pressure?) But wait, what would be holding the contact between 87 and 30 closed then? I thought the little coil did that. Now, I've confused myself even more. I thought I was on the right track for a minute at least. Could you do me a favor and run it down for me step by step as for example:
(1) Turn key on and PCM supplies power to coil via pin #?
(2) coil closes contact between pins 87 and 30
(3)?
(4)?
(5)?
And etc; etc. I would greatly appreciate it so I can get a 100% clear understanding of how it works exactly and then I can do further testing with my multimeter and know EXACTLY what I'm testing and how and why and then I can save money by not buying parts I don't need. Thank you so much in advance!

Thanks! It looks like my fuse box is the culprit. The female socket for spade 85 of the relay is very loose and shows no power with key on for 2 seconds.I have the fuse box out right now and am going to test the green and white wire inside it and see if there's power there when I turn on the key. If there is then I'll be certain. Those fuse boxes won't let you take the tops off to fix a loose connection like that because of the 3 threaded female studs I guess. Do you know if the top will come off if I keep prying or is it made to not be taken apart? I'm afraid I might break it and then be in trouble. Dealers no longer sell those boxes either so I'll have to try one from a salvage yard if I can't fix this one. Do you know if a box from a v6 engine would work the same as my 4 cyl? I guess I could always just take out the wires going to the f/p relay and wire it up on the firewall or something. I now know the green and white wire is #85 and the grey wire is fuel pump and ground is probably black. I see that # 87 comes straight off the f/p- f/inj fuse, but don't see what color wire that would be. Do you know off hand?

Well I checked both green/white wires inside the box (there are 2) and neither one shows hot for 2 seconds when I turn on the key. I guess they (it) is bad inside the computer or somewhere under the dash between the computer and the fuse box. I will check that next. Can only one wire inside the pcm be bad and everything else be good? What are the odds? Will it hurt anything for me to continue driving it the way I have it jumped? Everything works and runs normally, except the key won't kill the motor. I have to kill it with the switch I installed.

I guess the engine continues to run with the key turned off because the pcm is still recognizes RPM's. Am I right about that? But I thought the rpms came from the ignition coil and when you turn off the key, it cuts power to the coil? I have pin 30 & 87 wired straight to the battery, but neither of those should be connected to the ignition coil, should they?
Btw, (completely off subject) but do you know the easiest way to disable my automatic headlights? I'm not talking about the drl lights (I disabled them a long time ago) thanks

Ok, thanks for trying anyway. I'll just have to go to the gm shop and ask them I guess

I have same exact problem. Did you find the problem and fix?