2000 Oldsmobile Alero fuel pump

You should have power on the gray wire during the first 2 seconds of "key on" and whenever cranking. If the signal is intermittent, try unplugging the oil pressure sender and check it again.

Probably near the oil filter.

Do you have power at pin 87?

Pin 30 is the gray wire so if you are supplying power to it and it's not reaching the back of the car, that wire has to be broken somewhere.

No, you find out where the gray wire is damaged and repair it.

Don't listen to that guy. Your computer is not suspect here and that advice was a load of crap.

Something is drastically wrong with your testing.
You said you had power on pin 87.
Pin 30 is connected to the gray wire and a straight shot from there to the pump.
You said you connected Pin 87 to 30 and had no power at the pump, yet you tell me the gray wire has continuity.

That's just not true.

Yes, the pins are at diagonal corners so the relay can go either way. Pin 30 is the pump, 87 is the power supply.

So, after 2 pages of back and forth you have absolutely no idea why it won't start or whether the fuel pump has anything at all to do with anything.

Now you start from scratch.

Perform every one of these tests before you do another thing.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.