Engine cranks, but does not start, could it be the fuel pump?

Hello,

Are you able to hear the fuel pump, when the key is in the on position?

One thing you can check, spray starting fluid in the intake. Then try to start it. If it starts for a little bit and stalls, then the issue is fuel delivery.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-not-running-advanced

Inoperative fuel pump can be due to a bad relay, wiring issue or a bad pump itself.
First check the relay, it is located in the fuse box under the hood (see diagram below).
Check for any corrosion or burnt pins.
You can also test the relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

If the relay is good, check for power at the fuel pump connector.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If there is power, then the issue is likely a bad pump.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

I have attached diagrams below for your reference.

Let me know what you find or if you have any questions.
Thank you.

Okay, thanks for the info. I will give these a try. Sure, hope it's not the pump. I don't mind getting under the car, but I get nervous w power tools, wires, and banging around when there could be fuel or vapors all over the place.

I looked at the fuel pump relay. It didn't have any diagram. has 4 pins. Using multimeter I get continuity across 1 pair, but none across the other pair. So, I assume the ones w continuity are the ones from the battery? I hook up 12v worth of battery to the pair w continuity and it clicks when connected. Sounds good. With some difficulty I measure continuity across the other pair after connecting the batteries and then after the relay clicks. However, there is no change in continuity across the non-battery pair. I'm guessing that the relay switch is flipping since it is clicking, but for some reason it is still not completing the connection and thus needs to be replaced. What do you think? Thanks immensely for your help.

Do you have any other relay that you can swap this with? That way you will know for sure if it is the relay. Clicking relay means it is getting power, however not necessarily if it is actually putting out the power to the component.

no i don't. The relays are surprisingly expensive - almost $100.00. So, I'd don't want to buy it and it's not the problem. So, I was hoping for at least some input as to whether I'm on the right track or not. If after clicking, there is still no continuity across the other two pins, is a bad relay a reasonable diagnosis? Or do you think it's not likely or not particularly certain? thanks again.

One thing you can do is to check for power at the pump harness. That way you can take out any uncertainty of the relay. If there is power, then the relay is good, and the issue is the pump.

Got it started! This is embarrassing, but it might have been a battery that lasted years beyond its normal life. The fact that when the car wouldn't start, it was still cranking and turning over without problem led me to scratch the battery off my list. But after taking the battery out, I found a sticker 4/11 (2011) on it. (I hadn't driven it the last few years)

It runs smoothly. I just have to worry about the gas being kind of old. I'm hoping if I run some Techron or similar for the next few gas fill-ups it will be okay.

Well, I am glad you got it figured out.
It would have been incredible if a battery really lasted that long.

Let me know how it goes or if you run into anything.