Water pump replacement instructions please

Tiny
CNIX3
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 FORD RANGER
  • 150,000 MILES
The OEM fan clutch wrench set is too thick to fit in between the pulley and the water pump. I do not know where to buy a thinner a wrench. The final bolt (top right) on the water pump is blocked by the tensioner unit/compressor/ power steering pumps (they are all bolted together). What do I do there? In the manual its says that I 'may' have to the remove the all those extra parts, it seems like that is more than I should be doing. What am I supposed to do?
Sunday, October 13th, 2013 AT 8:50 AM

45 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Here are videos and guides to help you get the job done

https://youtu.be/3-qGNg5qeEw

and

https://youtu.be/N_-MLVlBHk8

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/fan-clutch-removal

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Sunday, October 13th, 2013 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
CNIX3
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you the guides and videos showed me how to do the job I saved $$$$
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Sunday, October 13th, 2013 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
RANGER RICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 FORD RANGER
  • 100,000 MILES
Truck in the shop for second time in 2 months. First time they replaced the water pump and thermostat housing. ($500.00) Telling me today it is the part under the housing where the hoses go in and out. (What would that be?) $500.00 again is the estimate. The shop is very reputable and have dealt with them for years, but does this sound right? After diagnosis this part has apparently cracked. Thank's Steve
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
That is called a front cover and water goes from teh pump into and ot of the block. Pic enclosed.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LOOSENUP35
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
How do you change the bearings in the water pump and how do you get the fan off the shaft so you can get to the water pump
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
U have the replace the water pump as one unit

and is it similar to this
u need a special tool


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_fan_clutch_tool_1.jpg

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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHARLES R
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
How do you remove water pump
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Removal and Installation

Drain the cooling system.
Remove the drive belt.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_w1_2.gif



Remove the bolts and the water pump pulley.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_w2_2.gif



Remove the bolts and the water pump.
NOTE: Lubricate the water pump O-ring, with MERPOL(R) .


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_w3_2.gif



To install, reverse the removal procedure.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RDANNENFELSER
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 201,000 MILES
I've read it to be recommended that when replacing one the other should be replaced as well. If a water pump that still functions properly is replaced simply for the reason of preventative maintenance and not part failure due to an instance of having convenient access to it, does the recommendation to also replace the fan clutch still apply?
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning.

If the fan clutch has failed, just replace the fan clutch. No need to replace the water pump unless it is leaking.

If the water pump has failed, then yes, I would replace the fan clutch.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/water-pump-replacement

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RDANNENFELSER
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
In this case neither the water pump nor the fan clutch has failed actually. I'm going to be replacing the timing cover gasket and figured I'd just install a new water pump instead of using the old one when reassembling everything. The truck has just over 200,000 miles on it and I've owned it since about 100,000 with never having needed to replace the water pump. Figured while it still may be functioning/not leaking it likely has some wear considering the mileage and wouldn't hurt to just replace. If I do, I was wanting to know if it'd be advised to also replace the fan clutch?
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, that is good information.

If you have the cover off, replace the pump and fan clutch. With the mileage, that is being pro active.

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RDANNENFELSER
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
Right on and thank you for the help.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RDANNENFELSER
  • MEMBER
  • 43 POSTS
I have just one quick extra question. For fan clutch replacement on this Ford Ranger 3.0 liter V6 2wd, would you recommend a standard or severe duty clutch? Not too often do I haul anything in the truck and even when I do the load weight isn't too excessive, probably 500†600 pounds at most.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Standard is good. If you were pulling better than 1,000 pounds, then use the heavy duty.

Roy
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IBIZARRO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 FORD RANGER
Engine Performance problem
2000 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 112k miles

I am in the process of replacing the water pump in my 3.0L Ford Ranger, and I'm having a problem getting the pulley off. It says in the Haynes manual to brace against to of opposite bolts on the pulley hub and hold the pulley in place (with the belt still on) while turning the fan clutch nut counter clockwise. I can't get any leverage on the bolts or get anything to hold onto the pulley nuts to keep the pulley secured while I do this. The pulley is of a concave design, hiding the nuts away from sight also. Making another observation obvious to me- "Fords are a pain in the butt". Any ideas or procedures I should doing differently?
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Try push down on the belt for extra tension, or use a deep sochet and hold the smaller bolt.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,384 POSTS
Removal (Ranger)
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner duct. Drain cooling system. Using Fan Clutch Holder (T96T-6312-B) and Fan Clutch Wrench (T96T-6312-A), remove nut retaining clutch fan to pulley. Remove fan shroud and cooling fan as an assembly.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_tool_6.jpg




https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_AAA2_319.png

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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IBIZARRO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
[quote="Dave H"]Removal (Ranger)
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner duct. Drain cooling system. Using Fan Clutch Holder (T96T-6312-B) and Fan Clutch Wrench (T96T-6312-A), remove nut retaining clutch fan to pulley. Remove fan shroud and cooling fan as an assembly.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_tool_6.jpg



Thanks but I've already been down that route and tried that, I've been all over my Haynes manual and the internet trying to figure out how to get around this. None of the specialty tools work with the pulley and applying more tension to the belt does nothing either. It still slips.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2021 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)

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