Won't run between idle and full throttle after it warms up

Tiny
CHRIS2352
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 FORD RANGER
My 4 cyl. Ranger won't run (can't tell if it's flooding or starving) between idle and full throttle after it warms up. Idles smooth and wide open seems fine. I have replaced the egr valve and position sensor, map sensor, all temp sensors, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, tuned it, the computer and even the wire harness. After each item change it will run wonderful for a few days and then right back to won't run between idle and wide open. I love the truck and hate to junk it but am at my wits end. Please help.
Friday, June 4th, 2010 AT 3:22 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Can you describe what is happening? I understand it idles smooth and wide open. What happens inbetween? Also, have you checked the fuel pump pressure / volume? Fuel filter? One last thing, it has been awhile. I believe it is fuel injected. Is that correct or does it have a carb on it?
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Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
CHRIS2352
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  • 4 POSTS
It is Fuel injected. It just dies between idle and full throttle but not completly. The engine still blubbers like it is flooded (but no smoke from the tailpipe) but is not strong enough to keep going unles you floor it or let it idle. I did put a new fuel filter on it with no inprovment. I also checked the fuel pressure which shows good when sitting still but it normally only acts up when being driven. I also checked the throttle position sensor for.8 volts at idle which was correct.
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Monday, June 7th, 2010 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure and the variations permitted when the throttle is moved from idle. Review it to see if there is anything you missed.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm
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Monday, June 7th, 2010 AT 9:31 AM
Tiny
CHRIS2352
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Thanks for the good information but it has two fuel pumps. One low pressure in tank, one high pressure outside tank. How do I tell which pump might be bad?
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Friday, June 11th, 2010 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I believe the low pressure is only a prime for the other. I wouldn't think it pumps more than a couple pounds of pressure.
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Friday, June 11th, 2010 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
CHRIS2352
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Problem fixed and had nothing to do with electronics. I was driving home and truck was running perfect. I turned on the vent blower and engine quit between wot and idle again. I thought what just happend? So I turned off the blower and it ran perfect again. Thought about it for a few miles then turned on the headlights and the engine quit again. Turned them off and it ran perfect again. Now I knew it had to be in the power distrubution and started at the battery. When I got home I replaced the 6 gauge battery cables with 2 gauge cables. Now for the last week and a half it runs perfect all the time even with the headlights and AC on and better gas milage too. All this time I have been fighting with, cursing at and hating ford electronics when it was a battery cable. Always in the past when there was a bad battery connection or cable on a car it would affect the starter not start fine but affect something else. Now I love the truck again and have a whole bunch of spare sensors for the furure.
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Monday, June 28th, 2010 AT 10:10 AM

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