Serpentine Belt Replacement and Diagrams Please

IT should pivit. I believe on the explorer, you can place a wrench on the bolt attaching the pulley and pivot it from that point. Here is a picture.

Try that and let me know if it helps.

Joe

The belt is held in place with an automatic tensionier. What you do is with a wrench, turn the tensionier in the direction to release tension from the belt and slip the belt off.

Depending on the configuration of the Alternator, A/C, Power Steering, Water Pump, Idler and "Tensioner type" you have, one of the two diagrams below shows the belts routing. The "Tensioner" is spring loaded and needs to be pulled back to allow the belt to travel over it. Then slowly release the tensioner onto the belt. The tensioner constantly applies pressure on the belt keeping it tight.

DOUBLE CHECK THE BELT ROUTING (#1) OR (#2) BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE!!

#1

To use the "bypass belt routing" you will need a smaller drive belt.

#2

Good Luck;
Rick

The serpentine belt and alternator "are" related but does not mean both need replacement.
You were told your serpentine belt was going a week ago. How that is know is with inspection. Look at your serpentine belt has cracks or cuts or nicks etc. Usually the rubber gets old and starts to crack. I would say your belt has "visible" cracks . The cracks weaken the belt and it then starts to stretch. Usually when stretching starts the alternator is less capable of putting out it's full charge. Now add in your lights,radio,heater etc. The alternator is having one hell of a time trying to power up everything and not let the battery into the picture. Now the battery is not being charged by the alternator the way it should be. And then everything hits the fan and............... your battery is dead.

*1 The guy from AAA probably saw the belt was bad and stretched causing bad output of the alternator.

*2 The alternator is no longer functioning properly (Low or weak output) - 90% of the time the alternator is fine.

*3 To absolutely know if it "is" the belt do this:
Engine OFF - look at the belt going around you alternator pulley. About 3 - 4 inches away from the pulley push down on the belt with your finger. The belt should flex/move very little only about 3/4 inch full flex/movement. If the belt seems very spongy, soft and weak... a bad belt is starting to play a "BIG" roll in the problem. If you push down on the belt and there is a very large flex/movement like you are pushing on "clothes line rope"...you "should" find your alternator is "fine" and you just need a new serpentine belt.

If the belt looks good, has very little flex etc. I would start thinking the alternator just might be no good. - I am almost sure ...80% sure you will find the problem with a dead battery was caused by a bad belt.

The alternator needs the correct amount of tension applied to it so it will operate as it should.
I do not know what engine you have, I can just say on that ....a serpentine belt for a 5.0L 8 cyl. is around $50.00. You will also need to pay labor if you are not doing the work so.....Somewhere around $80- $85 for the belt and labor.
If it is the alternator... I do not know what your present amperage output is. The higher the output the higher the cost average price is $131 for the alternator plus labor for removal and installation.

You can check the price for the alternator out here at this link:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1354542&parttype=2412&a=FRc1354542k487570

A good place and good prices.

Again, I would bet your just about say for sure you serpentine belt is the whole problem....around $80.00 or less ...(Belt & Labor).
** Tip, if you have a Advance Auto Parts near you they will check your alternator (Free of Charge)**

I hope that information helped. If you need any more help just send me a private message and I will get right back to you.

Good Luck;
Rick

The repair can actually be made fairly easily. The only part (other than the belt) that needs to be removed is the intake tube. The passenger side of the engine compartment has a box that houses the air filter. Simply unclip the upper part of the box, unplug the MAF and loosen the clamp on the other end of the intake tube. You should then be able to easily see the belt tensioner. The belt should feed under the water pump pulley and you should not need to route it around the fan blades to get it out. But if you need to just manuever it tbetween the blades and the shroud. You do not have to remove the shroud, as this requires removing the fan blades.

Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. Use the drive belt tensioner pulley bolt and rotate clockwise, Use a wrench or socket. Once you have slack in the belt, remove belt.

Replace the tensioner assy. Not just the pulley. It is used to moving about in a certain range and was probably ready to be replaced anyways. Changing the position a little while doing the pump job just flushed the problem out. Not abnormal to see this happen anytime the tensioner has been moved.

Did you recheck the belt route ?

When you bypassed the AC, did you get the correct belt and route it correctly? Also, when the belt is on, is it tight? Finally, are all of the pulleys lined up straight?

Let me know.

Joe