Engine shuts off while driving

Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
***UPDATE***

Electrical tests indicate that the battery is good and the alternator is charging steady at 14V. Intermittent alternator fault suggested. Battery indicator on dash is good at half way. When stationary and rev sharp up to 4-5000 rpm and then throttle released engine drops down to near stalling with battery meter going right down only to quickly correct back to normal. Lights and radio lights dim when hits near stalling. Recovery almost straight away. Mechanic suggested slight leak on the manifold area explains 'popping' noise and an electrical fault will screw up the ignition. Also indicated that an alternator fault would cause the vehicle to behave erratic as described. Seeking electrical mechanic Monday. Any advice as to fault greatly welcomed!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,004 POSTS
Throwing my inexperienced 2 cents worth in, Step-daughters Exploder had a alternator issue. Battery went down. Not running well. Erratic gauges. Even though she saw it coming on, she insisted on driving it, till it just wouldn't go no more. Many miles from home. Wee hours of the morning.

You guessed it, .I GET THE DISTRESS CALL!

We replaced the alternator, the next day. Same issue, except it was now it was charging.

I called a friend, he said that in some vehicles, if the battery goes way down. Left the lights on. Etc, even if the alternator is good, even Jump Starting won't fix it.

He said you must disconnect the battery for a short period and either charge IT (However, till it has a wonderful charge), or replace with a fully charged one

Seems Mr. Computer must ONLY, somehow "Reset" with full voltage, after being totally disconnected.

This made hers work. She was happy.I was happier!

The Medic
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks Medic. Read about disconnecting the battery to reset the computers might help. And the erratic gauges sounds right. Also just reading up remember smelling a hot smoldering plastic smell after drives. I thought it was normal on these Big cars (Im used to 2 litre alfa romeos in the UK!), But turns out it can be erratic charging from the alternator if bad connections or diodes gone causing an AC leak into the DC circuits. I think we're onto the fault here but still appreciate everyone's thoughts and input! Going to check the wires in the morning as lost the light now and maybe replace the alternator if the connections are good. BTW, lol on the call for help. I always get that from the family members in the UK. And you can do tons of work on an engine but it'll be the cheap new wing mirror that brings the wow face. Doh!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
*** UPDATE - please help****

New symptom. Truck seems fine again and then boom. Local city driving and erratic speedo and loss of power. Also CLUTCH SEEMS TO SLIP ON AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - rpm counter spins up smoothly with accelerator depressed but no power and then grips again. Managed to get to a garage and then surprise surprise. It starts working fine again. TRANSMISSION / ALTERNATOR?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You started a big war I was going to cut it short due to circumstances-But No-you choose to send it to the grave-lol

Here's your Charge System-EWD now you can test it
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Electrical Mechanic gets back to me indicating that its all down to the Over Drive (O/D). The O/D hasnt worked since I got it and not to familiar with it on the automatic gearbox. Numerous little things have gone like bulbs in the dash but apparently its to blame for everything? Cheap repair anyhows and cheaper than an alternator or transmission thats for sure! We'll see how it goes. Thanks to all for help and especially for the wiring diagram!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
REX HAVOC
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Ford Explorer V8

Explorer shuts down. Beeping noise from behind radio and ABS light on dash comes on. Prior to this happening the headlights dim till car shuts down. Cannot restart but have to jump. Replaced the ABS and worked for few days then shuts down again. Ssame as before. Battery connection? Alternator?

Updated 12/10/09
2CarPros team:
Thank you for your response.
Mechanic said the battery was completely dead. On our first visit because the ABS light came on with the beeps suggested the ABS was faulty causing the computer to shut the car down. Replaced that unit at minimal cost. The car shut down again and this time as per your answers mechanic said the battery cables terminals were loose on the battery. They seemed tight to us. We had just purchased that battery from Advance Auto Parts last spring.
It was over a $100 battery. Either way, he replaced the cable terminals, checked the grounding and put a full charge on the battery. Also checked the alternator and said that was ok. He had wanted to replace the battery with a 'more powerful' one.
(Interstate) We opted for the full charge.
So far the car is doing ok but noticed when returning from the garage that the voltage needle points towards LOW rather than staying in the middle.
Sometimes it goes back to the middle but drops again. Let's see what happens to this old clunker. Again thanks.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
It sounds like the battery is going dead. I would suggest taking the vehicle to a parts store and have them check the alternator and load test the battery. Also, you can check the battery cables to make sure they are clean and tight. Also, make sure the ground to the engine block is clean and tight too.

Let me know what you find so I can further direct you.

Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
If the gauge is doing that, your alternator is going bad. What will end up happening is the battery will eventually die again. If you can, take the car to a nationally recognized parts store and have the alt tested. I would like you to do this when the alt gauge is down. I'm confident that is where the problem is coming from. Also, the ABS won't shut down the vehicle. What did he replace?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BUCKWHT45
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
I can either be sitting or driving and the engine will just stop. All electrical is still works. I have to stop and turn the car off and wait for a few minutes and then it will start back up. Some time it happens 3 times in a day or I may go for days before it will happen again. I will not go on the freeway because of this. Any help with this problem will be great.
1995 Ford Explorer limited 6 cyl 4.0l
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Intermittent issues can be a pain. You have to test when problem is ongoing. When it stalls, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. I do realize, if your alone, you will have a tough time trying to do some testing. Plus the engine compartment is probably very hot. Sometimes, I wear gloves when dealing with a hot engine.

You might be able to use a digital multimeter to test for spark at the plug wires. You would still have to have a helper crank it. With the digital multimeter on the mv setting, engine cranking, you touch the red lead to spark plug wires, black lead goes to ground/engine metal. You don't take the plug wire loose and you don't penetrate the insulation, you just touch the wire, you get and inductive reading/bleed through voltage, not sure I worded that correctly. With spark, the reading is around.5 to maybe.7, that is tenths of a volt. If no spark the reading will be trying to bounce off 0. That procedure will work on some makes and models. I don't know about all makes and models?

Usually a digital multimeter is within everybodies means.

Can you check for applicable trouble codes? Can you check proper fuel pressure? An intermittent rpm signal will kill your vehicle dead. I can't be positive of your problem unless you do some testing?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OTISWEST11
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Why does my 1995 ford explorer shut down when I drive it for about 10 minutes? Could it be my fuel filter?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Does it start right back up or does it have to sit and cool down?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
OTISWEST11
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yeah it starts right up but when I put it in drive it stalls back out. I have to wait about 30 minutes before it will move again
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMINOHIO2010
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
Engine stalls after about 30 minutes of running. Seems like when engine and componets are warmed up that is when it stalls. It will not restart for about 45 to 60 minutes later
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
When it won't start, have you checked to see if the engine is getting spark and fuel?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
Can you hear the fuel pump running for a second or so when you first turn the key?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMINOHIO2010
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Yes I can hear the fuel pump and know there is no spark when this happens. I actually removed the coil pack to cool it down just in case it might be it but as far as it getting hot and not working, this is not it. If it has no spark should I still check for fuel
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,772 POSTS
No, if there is no spark, that is why it won't start. Chances are it is a bad crank sensor, but has the check engine light come on? Also, are you sure the fuel pump is turning on? The EEC relay will sometimes shut everything down, but if you hear the fuel pump, that isn't the problem.

Let me know.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMINOHIO2010
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
The only time the check engine light comes on is when the engine stalls as all the other lights as well. When I turn the key I can hear a consistant sound that sounds like a pump
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)

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