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Engine shuts off while driving

Tiny
ED0540
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
My engine cuts off while slowing down after the car is accelerating. When I pump the gas there is no response. The car acts as if it is not getting any gas. But when the car is in idle the car runs without any missing or any signs of fuel pump problems. What could cause the car to cut off or lose gas when slowing down?
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Sunday, April 11th, 2010 AT 7:42 PM

46 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job and diagrams below to help you find the sensor location on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Joe
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Monday, April 12th, 2010 AT 5:35 AM
Tiny
ED0540
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Perfect it worked great! I found the sensor on Amazon for $46.00 and replaced it all good. I love this site. Thank you so very much.
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Monday, April 12th, 2010 AT 9:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2010 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
MIKE DUFRESNE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
Have been having trouble with the car shutting off while driving, and also when it does run well when you shut it off it won't start back up for a half an hour to hours at a time. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, the fuel pressure sensor, plugs and wires and new thermostat. Also the lights when out in the dashboard and there is no running lights at all, all the interior lights work except the dash and the headlights work as well.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like you have a couple different things happen. When you say it stalls when driving and then won't restart for some time, I suspect a crankshaft position sensor is going bad. Take a look through these links and let me know if the symptoms mentioned mirror what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you feel this is the issue, I attached a picture of the sensor on your vehicle. It is located front center of the engine.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE DUFRESNE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you. I was thinking that but didn't want to put out any more money that I didn't have to. Also do you have an idea of what the lights problem could be?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Welcome back:

I hate to ask this, but I need you to repost the electrical question. We are trying to keep the threads specific to one topic so it is more helpful to others.

I hope you understand. Also, let me know if the sensor I mentioned fixes the issue.

Thanks,
Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE DUFRESNE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The electrical issue is I turned the lights on one morning and the dashboard lights went out. I thought it might be a fuse, but it's not. All the other lights are working, dome, radio, glove box, interior lights and head lights just no dash board lights and no running lights in front or back. No fuses are blown. Have changed light bulbs in rear and still no running lights.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Welcome back:

That sounds like the switch itself has failed. Take a look through the attached pics. They show how to test the switch. You will need to remove the switch to check and have use of a multi meter.

Here are a couple links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you look through the first three pics below, they provide the test procedures for the switch. If you are not sure about something, feel free to let me know.

_________________________

Here are the directions for removal of the switch:

1996 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-245 4.0L
Procedures
Vehicle Sensors and Switches Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns Headlamp Switch Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove instrument cluster finish panel.

Fig. 8 Headlamp Switch Replacement

See pic 4

3. Remove attaching screws and switch from cluster finish panel, Fig. 8.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
__________________________

Let me know what you find, if you have questions, or need help.

Take care,
Joe
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
A.DANKOVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 20,000 MILES
We just replaced the fuel pump in a 1996 ford explorer including the fuel filter. The pump was broken and need to be replaced and the filter was dirty so we replaced it. Now the engine will start but will not stay running especialy when you give it gas. Before we replaced everything the vehicle was running real slow when you first started it and you accualy had to drive about 1 mile before it seemed to have enough fuel pressure to work right then it was fine. We have also replaced the fuel relay
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
Okay, first off do you know what the fuel pressure is? I would also like you to unplug the mass air flow meter and try to start is see if will stay idling. Let me know what you find. Thanks.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KARRY TILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 169,755 MILES
Has a code P0231 & also eec relay, wot relay, fuel pump relay gets hot when it shuts off
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
The PO231 = Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. Have you tried replacing the EEC relay?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNY MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 FORD EXPLORER
  • 145,000 MILES
1996 Explorer 5.0L 2 wheel drive. Running down the street 1 second and dead the next. Connected scanner to ODBII port and scanner can not establish communications link. Have checked all fuses in under hood fuse box. Can hear fuel pump running and have fuel at test port. Haven’t checked power at PCM yet. Dead PCM? Is there anything surrounding the PCM that I should also check? If I get a new unit do I have to take the car to a dealer to have it correctly programmed? Suggestions?
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Go to this link for additional information on stalling: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:33 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PHILWI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,868 MILES
While driving the motor will shut off. After it sits for a little bit it will start back up and you can go.
Or after I get to where I'm going, shut it off, it doesn't want to start. When you try to start it, it makes a higher than normal pitch, or sound of the motor turning over has a higher pitch. Could the ECT sensor or the throttle sensor have something to do with it? Or vacuum hoses.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) going out. When the CMP is cold it will work, but when it starts to heat up it will fail. This is what happens when a sensor like your vehicle's CMP is intermittently, or starting to fail. The CMP on your vehicle is used by your vehicle's Power-train Control Module(PCM) to syncronize and fire the fuel injectors. Without this signal from the CMP your vehicle wiil not run. I have included in the diagrams down below the location of your vehicle's CMP sensor. Please go through this information and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
wCarPros
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:37 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1995 FORD EXPLORER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120 MILES
Hi, Im getting married shortly and need my vehicle on the road! Heres the details: PLEASE ADVISE ON POSSIBLE CAUSES TO DIRECT REPAIRS AND DIAGNOSTIC.

1995 Ford Explorer Sport. 120k+ miles, had full service 4 months ago = oil, sparks, etc. ENGINE CUT-OUT PROBLEM. OIL OK - little dirty, transmission fluid clean, coolant clean, drivers panel gauges indicate battery charge level good and oil pressure good.

NOTED: Engine misfiring while idle. Latest engine loss occurred city driving. Radio lights dimmed - went off and slowly faded in dim with headlight activation. Speedometer gauge started behaving erratic at low speeds. Engine started to stutter. Seems to be less significant at much lower speeds (ie 10 mph). Alternator / spark plug issue? Just wanted some advice before delving under the bonnet.
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do you have a check engine light?

Have the alternator load tested-if okay-give it a tune-up and see what happens
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FROHIKE47
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I did a long distance run and the similar symptoms came up at the end (was evening on return and so headlights on). The ENGINE CHECK LIGHT came on briefly but then vanished. Not been on since. Just pulled one of the spark plugs out and looks good - normal light grey / brown deposits. No cracks, carbon build ups or anything. 5 more to go. Suspect the alternator but would this cause:#

1) Speedo erratic behavior?
2) Engine cut out
3) Poor idle misfires (Not major ones just sounds rough and spluttery - engine revs raise and lower approx only 100 rpm while idling at the lights but can hear the splutter under the bonnet.

Suspect the alternator but the battery indicator on the dash says normal (half way between upper and lower).

Will get alternator checked shortly.

Thanks for getting back quick!
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Friday, October 9th, 2020 AT 11:39 AM (Merged)

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