Engine shuts off while driving

This sounds like a classic crankshaft angle sensor. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job and diagrams below to help you find the sensor location on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Joe

Perfect it worked great! I found the sensor on Amazon for $46.00 and replaced it all good. I love this site. Thank you so very much.

Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers

Have been having trouble with the car shutting off while driving, and also when it does run well when you shut it off it won't start back up for a half an hour to hours at a time. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, the fuel pressure sensor, plugs and wires and new thermostat. Also the lights when out in the dashboard and there is no running lights at all, all the interior lights work except the dash and the headlights work as well.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like you have a couple different things happen. When you say it stalls when driving and then won't restart for some time, I suspect a crankshaft position sensor is going bad. Take a look through these links and let me know if the symptoms mentioned mirror what you are experiencing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

If you feel this is the issue, I attached a picture of the sensor on your vehicle. It is located front center of the engine.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Thank you. I was thinking that but didn't want to put out any more money that I didn't have to.. also do you have an idea of what the lights problem could be?

Welcome back:

I hate to ask this, but I need you to repost the electrical question. We are trying to keep the threads specific to one topic so it is more helpful to others.

I hope you understand. Also, let me know if the sensor I mentioned fixes the issue.

Thanks,
Joe

The electrical issue is I turned the lights on one morning and the dashboard lights went out. I thought it might be a fuse, but it's not. All the other lights are working, dome, radio, glove box, interior lights and head lights just no dash board lights and no running lights in front or back. No fuses are blown. Have changed light bulbs in rear and still no running lights.

Welcome back:

That sounds like the switch itself has failed. Take a look through the attached pics. They show how to test the switch. You will need to remove the switch to check and have use of a multi meter.

Here are a couple links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you look through the first three pics below, they provide the test procedures for the switch. If you are not sure about something, feel free to let me know.

_________________________

Here are the directions for removal of the switch:

1996 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-245 4.0L
Procedures
Vehicle Sensors and Switches Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns Headlamp Switch Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Remove instrument cluster finish panel.

Fig. 8 Headlamp Switch Replacement

See pic 4


3. Remove attaching screws and switch from cluster finish panel, Fig. 8.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
__________________________

Let me know what you find, if you have questions, or need help.

Take care,
Joe

we just replaced the fuel pump in a 1996 ford explorer including the fuel filter. the pump was broken and need to be replaced and the filter was dirty so we replaced it. now the engine will start but will not stay running especialy when you give it gas. before we replaced everything the vehicle was running real slow when you first started it and you accualy had to drive about 1 mile before it seemed to have enough fuel pressure to work right then it was fine. we have also replaced the fuel relay

Okay, first off do you know what the fuel pressure is? I would also like you to unplug the mass air flow meter and try to start is see if will stay idling. Let me know what you find. Thanks.

has a code P0231 & also eec relay ,wot relay, fuel pump relay gets hot when it shuts off

The PO231 = Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. Have you tried replacing the EEC relay?

1996 Explorer 5.0L 2 wheel drive. Running down the street 1 second and dead the next. Connected scanner to ODBII port and scanner can not establish communications link. Have checked all fuses in under hood fuse box. Can hear fuel pump running and have fuel at test port. Haven’t checked power at PCM yet. Dead PCM? Is there anything surrounding the PCM that I should also check? If I get a new unit do I have to take the car to a dealer to have it correctly programmed? Suggestions?

Go to this link for additional information on stalling: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

While driving the motor will shut off. After it sits for a little bit it will start back up and you can go.
Or after I get to where I'm going, shut it off, it doesn't want to start. When you try to start it, it makes a higher than normal pitch, or sound of the motor turning over has a higher pitch. Could the ECT sensor or the throttle sensor have something to do with it? Or vacuum hoses.

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) going out. When the CMP is cold it will work, but when it starts to heat up it will fail. This is what happens when a sensor like your vehicle's CMP is intermittently, or starting to fail.The CMP on your vehicle is used by your vehicle's Power-train Control Module(PCM) to syncronize and fire the fuel injectors. Without this signal from the CMP your vehicle wiil not run. I have included in the diagrams down below the location of your vehicle's CMP sensor. Please go through this information and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
wCarPros

Hi, Im getting married shortly and need my vehicle on the road! Heres the details: PLEASE ADVISE ON POSSIBLE CAUSES TO DIRECT REPAIRS AND DIAGNOSTIC.

1995 Ford Explorer Sport. 120k+ miles, had full service 4 months ago = oil, sparks, etc.. ENGINE CUT-OUT PROBLEM. OIL OK - little dirty, transmission fluid clean, coolant clean, drivers panel gauges indicate battery charge level good and oil pressure good.

NOTED: Engine misfiring while idle. Latest engine loss occurred city driving. Radio lights dimmed - went off and slowly faded in dim with headlight activation. Speedometer gauge started behaving erratic at low speeds. Engine started to stutter. Seems to be less significant at much lower speeds (ie 10 mph). Alternator / spark plug issue?? Just wanted some advice before delving under the bonnet.

Do you have a check engine light?

Have the alternator load tested-if okay-give it a tune-up and see what happens

I did a long distance run and the similar symptoms came up at the end (was evening on return and so headlights on). The ENGINE CHECK LIGHT came on briefly but then vanished. Not been on since. Just pulled one of the spark plugs out and looks good - normal light grey / brown deposits.. no cracks, carbon build ups or anything.. 5 more to go. Suspect the alternator but would this cause:#

1) Speedo erratic behavior?
2) Engine cut out
3) Poor idle misfires (Not major ones just sounds rough and spluttery - engine revs raise and lower approx only 100 rpm while idling at the lights but can hear the splutter under the bonnet.

Suspect the alternator but the battery indicator on the dash says normal (half way between upper and lower).

Will get alternator checked shortly..

Thanks for getting back quick!

***UPDATE***

Electrical tests indicate that the battery is good and the alternator is charging steady at 14V. Intermittent alternator fault suggested. Battery indicator on dash is good at half way. When stationary and rev sharp up to 4-5000 rpm and then throttle released engine drops down to near stalling with battery meter going right down only to quickly correct back to normal. Lights and radio lights dim when hits near stalling. Recovery almost straight away. Mechanic suggested slight leak on the manifold area explains 'popping' noise and an electrical fault will screw up the ignition. Also indicated that an alternator fault would cause the vehicle to behave erratic as described. Seeking electrical mechanic Monday. Any advice as to fault greatly welcomed!!

Throwing my inexperienced 2 cents worth in, Step-daughters Exploder had a alternator issue...Battery went down...not running well...erratic gauges.......even though she saw it coming on, she insisted on driving it, till it just wouldn't go no more........many miles from home.....Wee hours of the morning.

You guessed it, ...........I GET THE DISTRESS CALL!

We replaced the alternator, the next day.......same issue, except it was now it was charging.

I called a friend, he said that in some vehicles, if the battery goes way down..........Left the lights on..Etc, even if the alternator is good, even Jump Starting won't fix it.

He said you must disconnect the battery for a short period and either charge IT (However, till it has a wonderful charge), or replace with a fully charged one

Seems Mr. Computer must ONLY, somehow "Reset" with full voltage, after being totally disconnected.

This made hers work....she was happy.....I was happier!

The Medic

Thanks Medic.. read about disconnecting the battery to reset the computers might help.. and the erratic gauges sounds right.. also just reading up remember smelling a hot smoldering plastic smell after drives.. I thought it was normal on these Big cars (Im used to 2 litre alfa romeos in the UK!), But turns out it can be erratic charging from the alternator if bad connections or diodes gone causing an AC leak into the DC circuits.. I think we're onto the fault here but still appreciate everyone's thoughts and input! Going to check the wires in the morning as lost the light now and maybe replace the alternator if the connections are good. BTW, lol on the call for help.. I always get that from the family members in the UK.. and you can do tons of work on an engine but it'll be the cheap new wing mirror that brings the wow face.. doh!

*** UPDATE - please help****

New symptom.. truck seems fine again and then boom.. local city driving and erratic speedo and loss of power. Also CLUTCH SEEMS TO SLIP ON AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - rpm counter spins up smoothly with accelerator depressed but no power and then grips again.. managed to get to a garage and then surprise surprise.. it starts working fine again. TRANSMISSION / ALTERNATOR??

You started a big war I was going to cut it short due to circumstances-But No-you choose to send it to the grave-lol

Here's your Charge System-EWD now you can test it

Electrical Mechanic gets back to me indicating that its all down to the Over Drive (O/D). The O/D hasnt worked since I got it and not to familiar with it on the automatic gearbox. Numerous little things have gone like bulbs in the dash but apparently its to blame for everything?? Cheap repair anyhows and cheaper than an alternator or transmission thats for sure! We'll see how it goes. Thanks to all for help and especially for the wiring diagram!

Engine Mechanical problem
1995 Ford Explorer V8

Explorer shuts down. Beeping noise from behind radio and ABS light on dash comes on. Prior to this happening the headlights dim till car shuts down. Cannot restart but have to jump. Replaced the ABS and worked for few days then shuts down again. Ssame as before. Battery connection? Alternator?

updated 12/10/09
2CarPros team:
Thank you for your response.
Mechanic said the battery was completely dead. On our first visit because the ABS light came on with the beeps suggested the ABS was faulty causing the computer to shut the car down. Replaced that unit at minimal cost. The car shut down again and this time as per your answers mechanic said the battery cables terminals were loose on the battery. They seemed tight to us. We had just purchased that battery from Advance Auto Parts last spring.
It was over a $100 battery. Either way, he replaced the cable terminals, checked the grounding and put a full charge on the battery. Also checked the alternator and said that was ok. He had wanted to replace the battery with a 'more powerful' one.
(Interstate) We opted for the full charge.
So far the car is doing ok but noticed when returning from the garage that the voltage needle points towards LOW rather than staying in the middle.
Sometimes it goes back to the middle but drops again. Let's see what happens to this old clunker. Again thanks.

It sounds like the battery is going dead. I would suggest taking the vehicle to a parts store and have them check the alternator and load test the battery. Also, you can check the battery cables to make sure they are clean and tight. Also, make sure the ground to the engine block is clean and tight too.

Let me know what you find so I can further direct you.

Joe

If the gauge is doing that, your alternator is going bad. What will end up happening is the battery will eventually die again. If you can, take the car to a nationally recognized parts store and have the alt tested. I would like you to do this when the alt gauge is down. I'm confident that is where the problem is coming from. Also, the ABS won't shut down the vehicle. What did he replace?

I can either be sitting or driving and the engine will just stop. All electrical is still works. I have to stop and turn the car off and wait for a few minutes and then it will start back up. Some time it happens 3 times in a day or i may go for days before it will happen again. I will not go on the freeway because of this. Any help with this problem will be great.
1995 Ford Explorer limited 6 cyl 4.0l

Intermittent issues can be a pain. You have to test when problem is ongoing. When it stalls, have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. I do realize, if your alone, you will have a tough time trying to do some testing. Plus the engine compartment is probably very hot. Sometimes, I wear gloves when dealing with a hot engine.

You might be able to use a digital multimeter to test for spark at the plug wires. You would still have to have a helper crank it. With the digital multimeter on the mv setting, engine cranking, you touch the red lead to spark plug wires, black lead goes to ground/engine metal. You don't take the plug wire loose and you don't penetrate the insulation, you just touch the wire, you get and inductive reading/bleed through voltage, not sure I worded that correctly. With spark, the reading is around .5 to maybe .7, that is tenths of a volt. If no spark the reading will be trying to bounce off 0. That procedure will work on some makes and models. I don't know about all makes and models?

Usually a digital multimeter is within everybodies means.

Can you check for applicable trouble codes? Can you check proper fuel pressure? an intermittent rpm signal will kill your vehicle dead. I can't be positive of your problem unless you do some testing?

why does my 1995 ford explorer shut down when i drive it for about 10 minutes? could it be my fuel filter?

does it start right back up or does it have to sit and cool down?

[quote:0c4618b276="blackop555"]does it start right back up or does it have to sit and cool down?[/quote:0c4618b276]
yeah it starts right up but when i put it in drive it stalls back out. i have to wait about 30 minutes before it will move again

Engine stalls after about 30 minutes of running. Seems like when engine and componets are warmed up that is when it stalls. it will not restart for about 45 to 60 minutes later

When it won't start, have you checked to see if the engine is getting spark and fuel?

Can you hear the fuel pump running for a second or so when you first turn the key?

yes i can hear the fuel pump and know there is no spark when this happens. I actually removed the coil pack to cool it down just in case it might be it but as far as it getting hot and not working, this is not it. If it has no spark should i still check for fuel

No, if there is no spark, that is why it won't start. Chances are it is a bad crank sensor, but has the check engine light come on? Also, are you sure the fuel pump is turning on? The EEC relay will sometimes shut everything down, but if you hear the fuel pump, that isn't the problem.

Let me know.

The only time the check engine light comes on is when the engine stalls as all the other lights as well. When i turn the key i can hear a consistant sound that sounds like a pump