Ford OBD1 codes? CEhck engine light on?

Hello,

Here are a couple diagrams for retrieving codes...

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Auto Repair Manual - How to read codes (No Special Tools Needed)

1 Ensure the engine and oxygen sensor is up to operating temperature.
2 Turn the ignition OFF.
3 Connect an LED tester or Voltmeter, (Click here for details) to points labelled A and B on the diagram
4 Use a wire link to connect terminals as shown on the diagram.
5 Start Engine.
6 The fault codes will be shown on the LED tester or Voltmeter connected.
7 Read codes as described in the Code Format Description below.
8 Press the continue button to enter the code numbers and get the code description.
asd

Connector Diagram

Tips:
Single pin connector is grey in colour.

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Ford KOER diagram above is described as follows
"Â Engine Running ID Code. Number of reflects cylinders in vehicle. (diagram shows a 6 cylinder vehicle)
2 = 4 Cylinders
3 = 6 Cylinders
4 = 8 Cylinders
5 = 7.3L Diesel
"Â If the vehicle is equipped with a Brake On/Off (BOO) switch, the brake pedal must be depressed and released after the ID Code is transmitted.

"Â If the vehicle is equipped with a Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS), the steering wheel must be turned atleast 1/2 turn and released within 2 seconds after the engine ID Code is transmitted.

"Â If the vehicle is equipped with the E4OD transmission, the Overdrive Cancel Switch (OCS) must be sycled after the engine ID Code is transmitted.

"Â A 6-20 second pause.
"Â A single flash indicates the Dynamic Test Responce Code. When observed briefly take the engine to wide open throttle.
"Â A 4-15 second pause. during this time ignore any quick flashs that may occur.
"Â Fault code 132. (vehicle will either emmitt 2 or 3 digit codes)
"Â A 4 second pause seperates next Hard Fault Code.

Welcome to 2CarPros. So the light doesn't come on when you first turn on the key? Or it comes on but they couldn't command it on with the tester?
In the first one I would suspect a blown bulb. Some have a replaceable bulb while others are soldered into place on the inside of the cluster.

Removing the cluster so you can get to the bulbs easier isn't hard. If you look at the image attached to the first post.
The first thing is do disconnect the negative battery cable.
The next is to remove the ashtray and it's retainer.
Next you need to remove the trim panel. It snaps into place with metal retainer clips. Be very careful with this as the plastic is brittle.
Now remove the screws that retain the instrument cluster.
Gently pull the cluster out of the dash. Disconnect the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors. How you will need to replace the bulbs. For that it will depend on which cluster you have. Some have simple twist sockets for the bulbs, others have the bulbs soldered inside them, for those you need to open the cluster and remove the old ones and solder in the replacements. For that you might find a video online showing how the cluster comes apart. The references we use don't go that far in repairs.

Hello,

It sounds like it could be a couple different things, so you will need to pull codes and post them here in forum. Follow proceedure below....

1.Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step.
2.Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds.
3.Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector.
4.Turn the ignition key "ON".
5.Record all codes received.
6.Turn ignition "OFF".



or

Hello, I'm Danny.

You've attached you question to one that is years old.You need to start a new question include your vehicle information. Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

We look forward to hearing back from you and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

Hi there,

There will be a set fault code stored in the ECU memory, this will give you and indication as to where the problem is, get a scan done and check the code.

Mark (mhpautos)

It's in the right rear of the engine bay...it's called the self test connector

OK!