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Check Engine Light

Tiny
CLASPILLJM
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 82000 miles and I am having a recurring problem with the Check Engine Light. The light first illuminated (solid) on September 16, 2007. I took the vehicle into a Ford Service Center the following day, but they could not identify what was causing the light to come on. They reset the light and I left. Over a period of 4 weeks, I was back at Ford 6 times for the same problem (9/17, 9/24, 9/26, 10/2, 10/4, 10/9) and again on 10/9 and 11/26. Just as I would roll to a stop, the car would shudder like it was going to die, and then the check engine light would come on. Afterward, it seemed to run fine but each time I made an appointment with the Ford Service Center. It also seemed to only happen when the air conditioner was running or if we had been driving distances of more than 30 miles or so. I told the Ford center that it seemed like it only came on when the air conditioner was running and they kept telling me that it had nothing to do with the check engine light. (Maybe it doesn't but I it has only happened after the air conditioner is turn on)

The following things have been replaced/repaired: 1CYL IGN Coil & Spark Plug (9/26/07) and Idle Air Control Selinoid (12/18/07).

Two weeks ago (6/3/08), the check engine light came on again after the same shudder feeling. I went back to the Ford center and they said they are getting a code P0351. They contacted a Ford Technical Rep who gave them a Technical Service Bulletin 05-11-01 which refers to 2005 Escapes and 2005 Mariners. Among other suggestions, the bulletin says to replace all the spark plugs. They reset the light and said to drive it and see if the light comes back on.

I've driven it since and yesterday the car did the same thing - shuddered and then the light came on. I have an appointment on Thursday but am trying to find anyone who might have had a similar problem and/or solution. I'm sorry for all the detail but I just am not a "car person" so I'm not sure what information is important - thank you!
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Monday, June 16th, 2008 AT 2:21 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
I just want to say first, are they charging you everytime that you go to them and have the computer scanned, because if they are, please stop, you can get free computer scans at autozone or your local parts place, those dealers want anywhere from 90 dollars to a 125 dollars just to scan your car, noway if i can save someone that kind of money , then i will. okay now. your problem could be several other things like a fuel pressure regulator to the mass air flow sensor or the egr valve. or even the mapp sensor can give those symptoms, but the first thing I would want you to recheck is the idle air control valve, that is usually the problem when symptoms like yours occur, and because it was recently replaced does not mean that it wasnt faulty or now is faulty. I would also have your throttle body cleaned out along with the throttle plate , change pcv and breather. but dont get ripped off by the dealer.

Follow this guide to scan the car yourself

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, June 16th, 2008 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
CLASPILLJM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for the response - No, they are not charging me each time I go in. My car had what they call an "after-market warranty" which expired at the end of April (6 years/100k miles). I'm not sure why they call it "after-market" because we bought it when we bought the car new. Prior to the warranty expiration, everything was covered less a $100 deductible. At this point, though, anything that has to be repaired is out of our pocket.
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Monday, June 16th, 2008 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
ABESMIO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Did you every solve your problem? I have the exact! Same problem with my 2002 Escape with almost the same mileage. Any learning would be appreciated
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Friday, November 2nd, 2012 AT 2:21 AM
Tiny
DONNIEM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
My check engine light on 02 escape keeps coming on. It is code 402. Exhaust reciculation (egr) valve excessive flow detected.I changed egr valve, differential pressure feedback, and egr vaccum regulator valve. When I first start it up it gets a miss and once in a while while driving especially on a hill it will miss
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TECHMAN1
  • MEMBER
  • 82 POSTS
I don't have a great answer for you. Have you replaced the spark plugs? I have 2 2002 Ford Escapes. I will only use Autolite Double Platinum plugs. New plugs doesn't mean that you could not get a bad one.

We have to think about excessive flow through the EGR. Could you have a clog or obstruction in the air intake or clogged air filter or something causing the engine to suck too hard on the EGR? The last time I replaced my air filter, squarrels had built a nest inside the air filter housing.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WESALAUZEN
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Go to an auto parts store and have them check your codes. We have this exact same symptom and it is one of the coil packs generating an occasional missfire.

Lugging the engine seems to accentuate the problem on our vehicle (going up hill prior to downshift).

If you have 165k on the original spark plugs, I would say those need to be replaced as well. I just know that the coil packs on these vehicles are a known annoyance.

I hope that is helpful.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WAXFACTORY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,231 MILES
I have a 2002 Ford Escape that has had it's check engine light on for 11 days now. I took it to Auto Zone and had it checked out and was told that it was a ERG system fault (exhaust gas recirculation) It had detected too much flow on the EGR system.

They said the probable causes were either the EGR valve was stuck open, needed replaced or it was the EGR pressure sensor that needed replaced.

Well, my father and husband took the old valve out and cleaned it and put it back in place. It seemed to work okay for the rest of that day. Now it has started to idle rough and it cut out on me at a red light today.

Should I have replaced the entire valve? Should I go ahead and replace the sensor too. What about replacing the fuel filter and cleaning out the fuel system?

I am willing to take any and all suggestions on what to do. We only have 2 cars and my husband must get to work. However, I have 2 active boys at home and have many visits to the ER.I can't be home with out a safe running car.

Thank you
Jody Payne
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
THE GENERAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Do some web searching on the DPFE (Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor) and you'll find that many mechanics 'think' the EGR should be replaced when its really the DPFE. Its $30 part and takes only a minute to replace.

This should get you closer to a solution.

Good Luck!

-Mike
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 245,000 MILES
My engine light is back on!

This is the same issue I have experienced last year. It occurs only when the outside temperature is below freezing even the engine is warm.

I took this to the dealer #1 who indicated that the coil on cylinder #1 is bad. Replaced it and it did not fix the issue. Swapped the coils and confirmed that it is not a coil issue. Swapped the fuel injectors as well to confirm is not fuel system related.

Drove it fine last summer and fall. Just when it got cold, the light came back on.

I have taken the car to dealer #2 who indicated that the issue is a bad PCM and it will cost over $1,000 to fix. I had problem believe this it is PCM related because it only happens during the winter. If it is truly a PCM electrical issue, then why is it not occurring during the summer?

Could this be related to the mass air flow sensor? Or the throttle position sensor?

Thanks,
Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
My wife has a '03 escape

with her escape, we had some issues with every now and then a fast/ repetitive/ studder/ skip mainly experienced when pulling a slight incline

drove me crazy for a while!

The check engine light did not come on

you said yours did?

What are/ were the "exact" code number(s), not what they interpreted them to mean?

You sorta failed to explain in full what bad things it is doing?

The medic
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
The error code is P0351, Same code I got at AutoZone and O'Reilly. It is also the same code I got last year.

The vehicle drives Ok. No issue. Had the same issue last year and it resulted in plugging my cat converter (the one after the y-pipe and under the vehicle). I replaced the cat converter last Spring. I am concerned that if I continue to drive the vehicle in it current condition, I will damage another cat converter.

What is the root cause of this issue?

Thanks,
Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
Duh!

Musta missed the "title" of your post

seems #1 coil is the center of attention with this code

it does not necessarily mean the coil is bad, the connector/ connection/ wiring may be the problem

check the connector to the coil, look for damage where they mate, disfiguration/ melting due to heat

maybe the metal in the connector gets shoved back or sideways when it plugs into it's mate

(i'm getting this info from a pal who owns a production engine rebuild shop)

he also recommends the eliminating the "at the coil" possibility

obtain a new or salvage yard connector (insure the "locks" are not broken or sloppy) for the coil/ new boot and spring down to the spark plug/ insure the plug gap is correct, use dielectric grease on the connections

and yes, the pcm may be bad and the problem

the medic
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Thank you for the suggestion. Will check the connector again.

Any idea why this has a temperature component? Works fine with temperatures above freezing then light comes back when outside temps fall below freezing even if engine is warm?

Thanks,
Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
POSSIBLY EXPANSION/ CONTRACTION OF THE PLASTIC/ CONNECTOR/ OR A WIRE

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 230,000 MILES
I am having a presistant engine line on issue. I have taken the car to AutoZone and got a P3501. The printout indicates possible defective ignition coil #1, connector, wirings (12v and the server) or PCM. I have swapped coil and spark plug with cylinder #6 and continue to get the P3501 error.
I took the vehicle to the dealer #1 who confirmed PCM and wiring are good and it must be the coil. I indicated that I have already swapped the coil and spark plug. They still said it must coil #1. They reset the codes. I purchased and new coil #1 from dealer and replaced it. I drove for a couple of days and then got the engine light and same code again!
I took the vehicle to dealer #2 who confirmed all is Ok (Wiring PCM and Coil). They reset the codes. Drove for a couple of days and got the engine light on again!
The engine light is usually triggered when starting the vehicle and it is very cold outside
What are some other possibilities? What would you recommend doing next?
Thanks,
Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,136 POSTS
Just an idea. Is there any dirt or grease down in the #1 hole the plug goes into? The plug will ground at the threads. Not usually a problem but easy to check. Also this misfire could be an injector on number one also. Make sure its plugged in properly. These plugs like t get brittle and the tabs break off. If that's ok swap the injector as you did the coil if youre up to it. Lastly you may have a non visible crack in the plastic intake at cyl 1. That would explain the more prevalent code when cold. As the intake heats up it expands closing up the vac leak
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
It probably needs a PCM. Only other thing is swap the ground at PCM for coil driver 2 to 1. If code stays as p0351 and not p0352 it needs PCM. If it changes you have a wiring issue. Easy to do PCM is right there
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Thank you for the reply. The coil area is clean. So I will check the injectors and intake manifold next. Why would a fuel injector issue resulght in s P3501 code? Thought this was limited to electrical issues. Thanks, Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JJ962
  • MEMBER
  • 23 POSTS
Thank you for the feedback.

I am not sure how to switch the ground for the coil at the PCM. Can you explain this further?

Another possibility I was thinking was to purchase a used wire harness and swap with the existing one. If this fixes the issue, then this wold confirm it is a wiring issue and the issue is solved. If not, then I will have to purchase a used PCM and ask a qualified repair shop to swap it for me. Does anybody have experience with swapping PCMs? Cost? Hope I can do this without having to go to the dealership to reduce cost.

Thanks,
Jay
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,136 POSTS
I cnt actually find a p3501 code but if you have a misfire code it jut means the cylinder is dead not necessarily just the spark. Loss of air, comprssion, spark, or fuel will cause a misfire code
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 5:48 PM (Merged)

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