1995 Ford Aspire starts, runs untill it gets warmed up

Tiny
12OCLOCKHI
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 FORD ASPIRE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 182,000 MILES
It starts and runs about 1 mile then starts to miss and quits. Wait a few minutes and it will start up and go again. I have a yellow spark even when the engine is running. I think it might be the distributor.
Monday, June 28th, 2010 AT 7:37 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,714 POSTS
I hope it isn't the distributor. It isn't a cheap part. Have you checked the coil? When was the last tune up? Has the check engine light come on?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, June 29th, 2010 AT 11:46 PM
Tiny
12OCLOCKHI
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
How do you check the coil if It is built in the distributor? I don't see anything else to check. It runs good untill it gets warm then dies. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 7:46 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,714 POSTS
When it dies, do you still have spark and fuel?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
12OCLOCKHI
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Plenty of fuel & spark very light yellow could hardly see it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 11:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,714 POSTS
Here are directions for checking the coil. NOTE: If it is bad, the entire distributor needs replaced. Also, have you tried replacing the pick up coil in the distributor?

Here are the directions:

The ignition coil is mounted in the distributor.

1.Disengage the wire(s) from the coil.

2.Use an ohmmeter, connected as illustrated, to measure the resistance on the primary side of the coil; the resistance should be 0.5-0.7 ohms.

3.Use an ohmmeter, connected as illustrated, to measure the resistance on the secondary side of the coil; as illustrated. the resistance should be 20-31 kilohms.

4.If the resistance readings are not within specifications, the coil is defective and the distributor assembly must be replaced.

5.If resistance readings are within specifications, there may be a larger problem with the EEC system. It may be necessary to have the system further tested (because of the extensive knowledge, experience and equipment necessary to perform this testing) by a professional automotive technician.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249084_5_13.jpg



NOTE: The EEC is the electronic engine control unit. There is a relay in the power distribution box under the hood. You may want to check that too.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, June 30th, 2010 AT 11:47 PM
Tiny
12OCLOCKHI
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I checked the coil as suggested and I got 17.56 ohms on all three terminals. I am thinking it is back to the distributor. Thanks for the help. Anymore suggestions would be appreciated. I don't know anything else to check.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, July 1st, 2010 AT 8:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,714 POSTS
Have you checked the pickup coil in the distributor? That could cause the problem and is replaceable.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, July 1st, 2010 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
12OCLOCKHI
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Where is the the pickup coil? Is it what I call a module. The part that has the transistor in it. The top part of the distributor under the rotor button.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, July 1st, 2010 AT 11:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,714 POSTS
Yes that sounds like it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Thursday, July 1st, 2010 AT 11:45 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links