Faint grinding noise when the steering wheel is rotated in very slow speed

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

A humming noise will not come from a belt. Have you checked the power steering fluid? Steering fluid expands when it warms up. If it is low, the sound may change when the engine gets warm. Take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-problems

Next, can you tell me if the vehicle has to be moving to hear the noise or is it only when sitting still? Last, can you tell approximately where the sound is coming from?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Welcome back:

Okay, that eliminates a wheel/hub bearing. When you are turning the wheel that far, that puts a greater load on the power steering unit. If the fluid is dirty and has never been serviced, there is a chance it is the pump. You would need to open the hood, locate the pump, and then have a helper turn the wheel as you described so you could confirm that is where the noise is coming from.

Under these conditions, I actually use an automotive stethoscope. By placing one on the component in question, you can tell if that is where the noise is coming from.

Here are some links for you to review that discuss power steering issues, how to service the pump (which would be a good thing to try first) and in general, how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-problems

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/power-steering-fluid-flush

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-power-steering-pump

If you decide to replace it, some pumps require that you remove the old pulley and install it on the new pump. Here is a link that shows how that is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/remove-reinstall-power-steering-pulley

If you decide to rebuild the one in the vehicle, here are the directions specific to your vehicle for an overhaul. I also wanted to include this because it shows how to remove and replace the pump if you decide to just get another pump. All attached pictures correlate with these directions.
_________________________________

UNIT OVERHAUL
REMOVAL

1. Remove the pressure hose from the oil pump.
2. Disconnect the suction hose from the suction connector and drain the fluid into a container.

3. Loosen the oil pump mounting bolts to remove the V-belt.
4. Loosen the tension adjusting bolt.

5. Remove the power steering drive belt from the power steering oil pump pulley.
6. Remove the power steering oil pump mounting bolts and the tension adjusting bolt.

7. Remove the power steering oil pump assembly.

NOTE: Be careful not to drip fluid from the power steering oil pump.

8. Remove the power steering oil pump mounting bracket.

9. Remove the suction pipe and the O-ring from the oil pump.

10. Remove the rear cover with the gasket and pins.
11. Remove the cam ring.
12. Remove the rotor and vanes.
13. Remove the front side plate.

14. Remove the inner and outer O-ring.
15. Remove the spring.

NOTE: When assembling, use a new gasket and O-ring.

16. Remove the pulley nut with the spring washer.
17. Pull off the pulley and the woodruff key.

18. Remove the snap ring using snap ring pliers.
19. Drive out the pulley shaft with the bearing. If necessary, use a plastic hammer.

20. Remove the oil seal from the oil pump body.

NOTE: When assembling, use a new oil seal.

21. Remove the guide bracket and nut.

22. Remove the connector from the oil pump body, and take out the flow control valve and the flow control spring.
23. Remove the O-ring from the connector.

CAUTION: Do not disassemble the flow control valve.

24. Remove the oil pump switch.

25. Take out the spring and the spool.
26. Remove the O-ring from the oil pump switch.

REASSEMBLY
1. Install the oil pump switch.
2. Install the flow control valve spring, valve and connector in the pump body.

NOTE: Apply a thin coat of specified ATF DEXRON II type fluid to all the replaced parts including the oil seal and the O-ring.

3. Install the guide bracket and nut.

4. Using a special tool, install the oil seal into the pump body.

5. Gently insert the shaft assembly and install the snap ring.
6. Install the pump pulley with woodruff key in place.

7. Install the spring and the inner and outer O-rings.
8. Install the front side plate.

9. Insert the pins into the pin grooves of front housing, then install the cam ring, paying attention to its direction.

10. Install the rotor with its punch marked side facing towards the front side plate.
11. Install the vane plates with the round end facing outward.
12. Install the gasket and the rear cover.
13. Tighten the suction connector.
14. Installation is the reverse order of removal.

NOTE:
1. Install the hoses so that they are not twisted and they do not come in contact with any other parts.
2. Install parts by referring to the torque specification.
3. Replenish the fluid.
Recommended fluid Specified PSF - 3 type
4. Bleed the system.
5. Check the oil pump pressure.

INSPECTION
1. Clean all disassembled parts with a suitable cleaning solvent.
2. If any inside parts of the oil pump have been damaged, replace the pump as an assembly.
3. If the pulley is cracked or deformed, replace it.
4. If oil leaks around the pulley shaft oil seal, replace the oil seal.
5. If the serrations of the pulley or pulley shaft are deformed or worn, replace them.

___________________________________

I have to be honest. By the time you purchase parts and the time you will put into it, I feel you would be further ahead just to get a remanufactured pump from a parts store. However, I wanted to include it in case you decided to rebuild the one you have.

Take care and let me know how things go or if you have any questions. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family, too.

Joe

Welcome back.

Is there any way you could upload an audio of the noise you are hearing so I can hear it? Also, servicing the system is always a good first step. Using a turkey baster is a good idea. But, just because it is Thanksgiving, does not mean it can be reused when you finish. LOL

Draw out as much as you can and then refill. Start the engine and turn the steering all the way left and all the way right. Do this several times.

Repeat that process until the fluid remains clean. There are no drains for this.

Let me know if that helps.

Joe

When you remove fluid, replace what was taken with new before starting.

As far as maintaining a minimum such as a master cylinder, it is not necessary. However, do not start the engine when it is low.

Let me know how things go for you.

Joe

Hi again:

As long as the fluid meets the manufacturer's specs, it will be fine. As far as disconnecting the low pressure hose? Ugh, you will end up with a big mess if you start the engine. Also, you do not want to run the pump empty or low on fluid.

Welcome back.

I attached a picture which indicates the type of power steering used in this vehicle.
Dexron II which is actually automatic transmission fluid. Regardless, that is what it requires.

Welcome back:
Based on my research, Dexron III is fine to use.

Let me know if you have other questions. Also, often times, it will indicate on the bottle what it is compatible with.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:

Although they are similar, I wouldn't use it. Use the dexron III they had.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

If you are getting up and down play in the pulley, that isn't normal. Also, you may be getting a leak from the seal at the front of the pump where the shaft comes through to attach to the pulley.

Upload the sound and if you can, a video of you moving the pulley so I can see how much play is there. If it leaked once, it's going to again. Also, since is sprayed, either the high pressure line leaked (which would still be leaking) or fluid came through the aforementioned shaft, hitting the pulley and flinging everywhere.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi:
Does the noise change when turning?

Joe