Factory car alarm want to disarm

Tiny
MANLEYBUD
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 123,341 MILES
I have no key fob, I have been using my key in the lock to disarm the alarm. The power locks in the car quit working. Does the problem lie in the mechanism in the door lock? I might have read. There is a piece I can replace in the lock which will allow me to disarm the alarm so I can get entry into the car.
Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 2:25 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
The better suspect is broken wires between the door hinges. A potential clue is the anti-theft system can be turned off by unlocking the passenger front door.
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 4:48 PM
Tiny
MANLEYBUD
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
My question was can I disarm it by taking the door mechanism out and replace it? Well that is all my problem. I tried to key and all the other locks it did not disarm. How would I tell if it is a have them program the command into the brain across 325? That was one case the other case was she took apart the door took the tumblers out. Replace the tumblers for $75.00 and fixed it. So can I do it myself that kind of car or do I have to send to the factory? That is my my question.
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
I cannot understand what you wrote, but to answer what I think you are asking, there is a switch built into the door latch mechanism that could be defective, but that is not real common. Obviously, if that is what is wrong, replacing the latch would solve the problem. If, however, there is a broken wire between the hinges, repairing that is the only thing that will solve the problem. Replacing other parts is not going to accomplish anything.

You described a second problem of the power locks not working. That could also be caused by a bad motor in the latch assembly, but the clue would be it only affects the one door. Some other doors would still lock and unlock. When we consider you have two different problems, and both could be caused by broken wires, those become the better initial suspect.

Before you go looking for the hard stuff, pull the rubber boot back to inspect the wires between the driver's door hinges. There are two different ways those could be run. I repaired these wires on a lot of 1995 and older minivans. Those are solid wires that have to be spliced in right on the van. I will gladly describe how I did those if it becomes necessary. On Jeep models, the wire harness has a connector on the door and another one on the "A" pillar. Each connector has a single bolt in the middle. Once those bolts are removed, you can take that type of harness to the workbench to replace individual wires. I never did this repair on a 1996 or newer van, so I do not know which type of harness you have.

If you find the wires are okay, you will need to borrow a scanner to see what the various computers are seeing when you activate a switch. That will show if the body computer is seeing a switch being pressed, and if so, if it is trying to run the door locks.

The anti-theft system is built into the Body Computer and the Engine Computer. There is no way to eliminate the system. If you get a replacement key fob, its signal is received by the Remote Key-less Entry, "RKE" module. That sends a digital signal to the Body Computer which tells all the many other computers on the van to turn on. We have to know what those computers are seeing and responding to, to know where to go next.
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 7:23 PM

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