Excessive fuel consumption

Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD RANGER
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 152,000 MILES
Two years ago I had the heads replaced on the engine which are a known bad part. After I got it back from the mechanic I could feel some thing with the engine every once and a while, like a stumble or a stutter. I had a 12,000 mile/one year warranty with the mechanic so I took it back to him. He kept it for a few weeks driving it 350 plus miles and said he did not find anything. It kept doing it so I took it back a few months later. Again, he kept it for three to four weeks driving it 350 plus miles. The mechanic said he replaced the thermostat because he had a message the engine was not reaching operating temperature but did not see or find anything else.

After the warranty ran out the stumble did not get better and gas mileage was horrible. This mechanic has since closed his shop is working for a municipality in their garage.

I purchased a good scan tool and started trying to figure out what was happening. I also enlisted a mechanic friend to help but did not do much. So far this is what has been replaced and why:

Spark plugs (Initial shot in the dark).

Spark plug wires (Initial shot in the dark).

Coil (Concern the coil had been tracked plus engine was getting louder. New coil engine was smooth and quiet.)

Idle Air Control valve (Engine seemed to never idle down. Valve had heavy deposits and gumming so it was cleaned first. Cleaning did not seem to help as well as the valve could not be opened using advanced scan tool.)

Upper Oxygen sensors (Sensors were reading "Lean" - using the actual word on the scan tool - even though the engine was using more gas. When changed engine responded the most at the time.)

Lower Oxygen sensors (Because Upper sensors were changed.)

Thermostat (Engine was running around 171-176 degrees Fahrenheit according to the scan tool. Installed 195, had 192.)

Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (After changing thermostat engine operated 182-186 degrees Fahrenheit according to the scan tool. After changing sensor engine operates within the correct temperature range as read by the scan tool. Largest difference in engine performance.)

MAF sensor (Shot in the dark since the problem is present at specific engine RPM.)


Best Description:
The stumble is most felt between 50-60 MPH in 5th gear. The engine also bogs down at times in this speed range.
If pulling a hill or air conditioner is on it is the most evident.
Gas mileage stays around 18 mpg +/-. At the worst it was around 16 mpg. There has never been a smell of sulfur such as gas hitting the catalytic converters.

The best I can figure is the engine is calling for more fuel than what is needed so the engine is essentially flooding itself. When parts have been replaced and the battery cables touched the engine runs great for a day or two then it goes back.

I have thought about spraying some starting fluid around the intake and heads to see if the engine changes speed but have not done it.

Any assistance and/or guidance would be appreciated.


Chris
Monday, July 13th, 2020 AT 4:23 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Hi,

If you have a lean mixture, that is usually the result of a vacuum leak. You mentioned checking. I would start with that. Also, have you done a fuel pressure test to see if the regulator is working? One last thought, the catalytic converter smell you described could indicate that it is partially plugged.

Could you tell me what the short term fuel trims are? Also, here is a link that explains how to find a vacuum leak. I'm just adding it in case you need it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Monday, July 13th, 2020 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
I have not smelled any gas or sulfur from the catalytic converter.
I have not done a fuel pressure test. I would need to get the tools to do so.

Fuel Trims (I took pictures of the scan tool. Air Conditioner was on for the duration of the trip. It is hot in Alabama. Driving around town I noticed that LTFT B2 was typically 1-2% higher than LTFT B1. The STFT for each bank was off the same percent the other direction.):

1. Within 5 minutes of startup, engine at 194 degrees Fahrenheit, 60 MPH:
STFT B1 0.8%
LTFT B1 9.4%
STFT B2 -0.8%
LTFT B2 8.6%

2. Engine stumbled or hesitated just a few minutes of first check:
STFT B1 -7.0%
LTFT B1 3.1%
STFT B2 -7.0%
LTFT B2 5.5%

3. At idle:
STFT B1 2.3%
LTFT B1 3.1%
STFT B2 0.8%
LTFT B2 4.7%

4. 60 MPH:
STFT B1 0.8%
LTFT B1 7.8%
STFT B2 0.8%
LTFT B2 8.6%

5. Stumble or hesitation, 55 MPH:
STFT B1 -3.1%
LTFT B1 7.8
STFT B2 -2.3%
LTFT B2 8.6%

6. Pulling hill, No stumble, No loss of speed:
STFT B1 14.1%
LTFT B1 10.2%
STFT B2 14.1%
LTFT B2 9.4%
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 1:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, thanks for getting that to me. Everything looks good. However, I noted that each time you noticed a stumble, the trims went negative. That indicates to me the computer is leaning the mixture.

Honestly, the first thing I would recommend testing is the fuel pressure. Most parts stores will lend a fuel pressure gauge to you.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the manufacturer's specs for pressure values:

2006 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD V6-3.0L VIN U
Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
Vehicle Power-train Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
PRESSURE, VACUUM AND TEMPERATURE
Item .................... Specification

Fuel Pressure
Key on, engine off .................... 414-448 kPa (60-65 psi)
Engine running .................... 414-448 kPa (60-65 psi)

______________________

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 14th, 2020 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Joe,

I got the fuel trim levels a few seconds after the stumble. Since it was after the stumble could it be the engine flooded then the ECU pulled back the fuel trim to even out? Like I said before the gas mileage is really bad when it happens.

I plan to get a fuel pressure test kit to check the fuel pressure Friday.

Thanks,
Chris
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Wednesday, July 15th, 2020 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Chris,
The idea that it is trying to lean the fuel mixture indicates there is too much fuel being sent under the conditions. So, something caused it to go rich each time it stumbled. I would start with fuel pressure.

As far as the fuel pressure gauge, most parts stores will lend you one. It will help you save a few dollars.

Take care and let me know what you find.

Joe
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Wednesday, July 15th, 2020 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hey Joe,

I tested the fuel pressure this afternoon. Key on was 60 psi. Idle was 62 psi the first time and 64 psi the second time. I engaged the parking brake, put the truck in gear, and eased out on the clutch while giving just enough gas to keep the engine from shutting off to simulate a load. I did this twice and there was no change in the fuel pressure.

Chris
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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This may be an issue that we need to wait until it gets worse before we can identify the issue. Everything seems to be working as it should. How much worse is the fuel mileage from before?

Joe
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Friday, July 17th, 2020 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Right now it is 2-4 mpg. I forgot to add I changed the fuel filter last year about this time.
Sometimes I can pull hills no problem. Sometimes it loses 5-10 mph.

It drives me nuts. I have been dealing with this issue for a while.

What could cause 3-4 things, including sensors, to go bad all at one time? Everything was fine until this one shop worked on it.

I had an engine replaced in a different car 16-17 years ago, and the sensors all went bad in a few months. The mechanic did not check the sensors on the engine that had been sitting for a while. He said he should have known they would go bad. I asked why he did not change sensors from the running engine to the new to the car engine. (It was a 1995 Ford Probe with the 2.2 liter DOHC. I miss that car.)
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Saturday, July 18th, 2020 AT 4:57 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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In all honesty, it is unlikely that three things would happen at once. Are you referring to the coolant temp sensor, idle air control valve, and so on?

You know it may be a good idea to scan the CAN system. CAN stands for computer area network. Basically all of the computers / modules are tied together. This procedure checks everything and not just engine codes.

Here is a video showing how it's done and what it covers:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

It wouldn't hurt to try it. However, you need a scan tool that can do it.

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, July 18th, 2020 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Do you have a recommendation for scan tool that can perform the CAN system? I looked at different tools. The prices can get high quick.
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Sunday, July 19th, 2020 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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As long as what you get can scan the CAN BUS system, it will be fine. Just get what you can afford.

Joe
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Sunday, July 19th, 2020 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Joe,

I am trying to get a guy with a scan tool to scan the CAN.
The past week I have had a lot of stumbles and misses with the engine. Watching the fuel trims the engine is going lean after I feel something. This morning I noticed something unusual with the short term fuel trims. After letting off the gas to slow one of the short term fuel trims would jump up to double digits. The first time was 10.4%, the second 11.7%. It happened a good 4-5 seconds after I had let off the gas.

Chris
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Thursday, July 23rd, 2020 AT 1:24 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

That really isn't too far out of the ordinary. See what you find when you get the can scanner.

Let me know.
Joe
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Thursday, July 23rd, 2020 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Joe,
We did the CAN scan Saturday. There were not any codes or malfunctions of any kind. We also checked it at idle and driving. Everything showed to be working perfectly. The engine did not stumble, jump, hesitate, etc.

The guy that has helped me some did the scan with his Matco MaxMe. We talked about different scenarios. One is dirty injectors. Another is a bad ECM.

The dirty injectors would not surprise me. The last time I took the truck back to the mechanic they left it with less than a gallon of gas in the tank. I barely made it to the gas station across the street. I am going to get some Sea Foam engine treatment this week and put in the tank. I normally use Lucas Oil gas treatment, but I am trying the Sea Foam since it is supposed to be stronger.

Chris
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Hi,

If the ECM was bad, it would have shown an issue when you scanned the CAN system. As far as an injector, if one is leaking, I would think you would see the short term fuel trims further in the negatives when you experience the issue.

It won't hurt to try. Here is a link that explains how to test an injector. I figured I would add it in the event you wanted to check. The first part is how to confirm there is an injector pulse, which we already know you have. There are other electrical checks you may find helpful as well as removing the injector and checking the spray.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Let me know if the cleaner works.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 8:19 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Hey Joe,

I have to change the oil and oil filter this weekend so I plan to add the Sea Foam.

Something new happened this morning on my way home from work. Or at least new in several months. I drove through some water on the road from a sprinkler system about 50-60 feet. Not a lot of water but enough to darken the asphalt. Only a slight mist even gets on the windshield while behind other vehicles. The engine started acting up immediately and did so the rest of the drive home. I know normally spark plugs and wires are culprit if water is added, but there is no way water got to the top of engine as little as I went through.

Chris
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Friday, July 31st, 2020 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I believe the plug wires can get wet through the inner fender on this engine. Did the engine light come on? If so, what code?

Joe
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Friday, July 31st, 2020 AT 10:41 PM
Tiny
CHRIS ASHLEY2
  • MEMBER
  • 17 POSTS
Joe,

The engine light did not come on. I have driven through it all week without a single issue.

Chris
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 9:14 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,896 POSTS
Hi Chris,

That's odd it didn't come on. And if I understand correctly, you have driven all week through similar conditions without issues? If that is the case, it has be stumped. I have to be honest, the only thing I can suggest is to scan the can bus and see if there is anything in one of the modules that didn't set a code. Now interestingly, a crankshaft position sensor can fail and not set a code. Take a look through this link. It explains it better than I can. LOL

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 10:59 PM

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