Engine Stalling Out?

Tiny
SBRENTON
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  • 9 POSTS
Is the crankshaft angle sensor the same as the position sensor? I am not a mechanic so I dont always get all the terminology right. My following comments assumes they are one in the same.

I replaced the ignition switch a couple days ago but still have the stalling. I have not replaced the crankshaft position sensor yet. This was actually one of the things I was thinking about as well as the camshaft position sensor. I will take a shot at the crankshaft position sensor as you suggest and let you know if it solves the issue.

Hey. Actually. If memory serves me right that is right above the starter motor, correct? When starting the suburban it starts after a second or so but after firing it sounds like the starter motor spins for a few more seconds even after I release the key. Could that be an indication of the crankshaft position sensor failing?

Thanks in advance!
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello,

Yes, the crankshaft angle sensor is the same and its in the same location as the guide.

Here is a video of the job being done.

https://youtu.be/sKo7xRWVNqY

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SBRENTON
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OK, I did the crank sensor and that was a pain. There is near no room for that starter and laying on my back in a driveway does not help much either. Well I hope this solves the problem and will update you after I drive it a couple days with no stalling. Thanks for the advice and help.
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SBRENTON
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OK, it stalled after this sensor change and after a few days of it working great it sat for 24 hours and now it won't start at all. I am not getting any spark at all 8 plugs using a smart tester. Juice is getting to the coils tho. I also have 55psi fuel pressure and all inspectors are pulsating the noid testers. Any other ideas?
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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A couple things come to mind, first is an oxygen sensor that can be shorting out, please disconnect all of them and try to start it.

Here is the engine wiring diagrams (below) and some guides to help you test for power in the system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Please run some tests and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARRIEBETH19
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 234,765 MILES
I had my vehicle 2004 Chevy Suburban 1500 not 4x4 towed to our local Chevy dealer a couple weeks ago because it shut off on me while I was getting on the interstate. No warning lights, no hesitation/skipping/ rough running, just shut off, briefly started back up then shut off and was unable to get it to run. Left it at dealership with knowledge it would be "a couple days" before they would probably get to it as it was a few days before the holiday weekend. I picked up my suburban about 9 days later with a new ignition element/fuse and the assurance that problem was resolved. I made it about 20 minutes away and was again stuck on the side of the road. Called dealership, sort of expecting at least some concern/apology or maybe the offer of a tow, instead got a that sucks bring it back when you can and we’ll see if we can figure it out. With no $ for a tow I called my dad and had him tow it home and there it sits. Will start up and idle fine I haven’t managed to make it shut down while idling. Driving is a whole different experience. It will run great for about 25-35 minutes but once it warms up it just fails/ shuts down. Usually the shut off occurs when driving up a hill and again after having run for about 25-35 minutes. When the shut off happens we have tested coils and seem to have lost power/signal from ignition (voltage is just gone even with ignition in on position). Since the dealership replaced the ignition element/fuse (and they cleaned the throttle body) we have checked fuel pressure, it’s fine both while idling and immediately after engine fail, replace crank shaft position sensor, checked all wiring (has an auto start so checked all that wiring too). I guess my next step is to replace PCM, anyone have any other ideas? Also it’s not running hot and it’s showing no codes on the computer.
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SBRENTON
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  • 9 POSTS
Was this ever solved. I have the same issue.
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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We are sorry the person never got back to us, but we can figure it our for ya. The first thing you want to do it run the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Next please visit this guide which will run you trough the basics

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DANFULLER2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Chevy Suburban V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

my truck stalled on day and I have not ben able to stsrt it it getting fuel to the filter but not to the engine what can I check next thank you dan
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure if okay -check if the injector/s are pulsing if not could be a problem with the computer's ground drivers or an open on the power supply
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Thursday, July 9th, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)

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