Engine overheating?

Tiny
WILLIAM ROGERS2
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120 MILES
Overflow tank boil over through discharge hose

1) Tank pressure cap replaced twice
2) Thermostat replaced- original found to be defective
barely opened at 200 degrees on a boil test (did not fix problem)
3) Replaced water pump - found to be good
4) Replaced radiator - found to be clear of any blockages
5) Replaced the temp. Sending unit
6) Performed the bottle combustion test - results negative
7) Oil dipstick shows no mixing of the oil with coolant
8) All 3 fan relays tested with a relay tester- all good
9) When sending unit is disconnected- fans operate
(shows that circuit to the ECU is good)
10) Grounded the pins from two of the relays that receive their ground signal from the ECU. Shows that both fans are activated on that test.

11) When I replaced the thermostat, I changed from the original 195 degree to a 180 degree. With the help of a scanner, I read the real time temperature being read by the computer. The temperature gradually increased to !80 degrees, reaching mid-point on the gauge. Everything was normal up to that point. Then after another 10 minutes or so, the temperature slowly starts to climb. Fans still not activated by that point. Upon reaching 200 degrees, still no fans, not even low speed, which should briefly turn on by that point.
High speed fans do not kick in until approx. 225 degrees Engine starts to boil over around 215-220 degrees, well before fans kick on.

12) Although the ECU is reading the engine temp. Correctly, could there still be a fault with it?

13) One other thing. The ac system is not working due to a system leak. So I could not use the test of turning on the ac to see if the fans kick on. Is it possible that because the ECU does not receive a return signal from the ac sending unit, that it might cause the ECU to not activate the low speed fan ?

14) Also, after changing each part, I thoroughly purged the system of air pockets. Continued the purge process until well after the thermostat opened up and no further air pockets were noted.

I am out of ideas on this. I am also a former mechanic but this has me stumped.
Wednesday, May 29th, 2024 AT 11:29 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
When you say "Performed the bottle combustion test - results negative" is this a chemical test? If so, these tests are only about 75% accurate, I have seen a small head gasket leak cause these kinds of overheating without the oil and coolant mixing FYI. Also, is the cooling system holding pressure? I have not seen a bad PCM turn the fan on too late. With this old of a car the head gaskets rot out due to the aluminum heads and case iron block.

This guide may help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-overheating-or-running-hot

Sometimes you just need to remove the cylinder heads for inspection. You might want to try having the cooling system tested for exhaust gases while running. Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2024 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
WILLIAM ROGERS2
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for your response. Yes, the bottle test was the chemical test, where the blue colored fluid changes to green or yellow depending on the level of combustion gas present. It was conducted on the running engine for over 10 minutes with the engine fully warmed up. Also, the cooling system was holding pressure, up until the reservoir tank started to boil over. I will look at the link for your guide. Thank you very much.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2024 AT 11:11 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
No problem, please go over this guide as well. Like I said, the chemical test is about 75% accurate.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

You can remove all spark plugs and look for the one that is "clean" which will be the cylinder that is having the issue. It sounds like you have a blown head gasket.

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Friday, May 31st, 2024 AT 9:29 AM

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