Engine shut off while driving will not start

Tiny
ROBERK26
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 4.3L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
The engine was running fine for the previous 400 miles I drove today, other than some occasional pinging if I tried accelerating uphill on steep passes. When I refueled, I switched from regular to premium, as recommended for the 4.3l Vortec engine per the owners manual, and that problem went away. I started having troubles about 110 miles after filling up with Shell V-power.

I was just driving home through a pass in the mountains (Less than 1,500 feet maximum elevation, but some steep inclines) when the engine suddenly would not develop power. I could just rest my foot on the accelerator, and if I tried to put any more pressure on it, it would feel like I was riding the brakes and the engine started running rough. The issue only occurred when in gear. If I put the truck in neutral and stepped on the gas, it would rev up just fine. Unless I was going downhill, I could not exceed 45-50 mph. I would decelerate when driving uphill. About 30 miles later, the engine completely shut off and would crank, but not start.

The only lights I had occurred about 30 seconds after the engine completely quit running, and they were the battery and check gauges lights. Battery still had 12.2 volts when I put a meter on it, after about 6 attempts to start the engine again.

I am a certified aircraft mechanic, so I have understanding of how engines function, but mechanical issues with cars sometimes are beyond my realm of knowledge because the technology us far more advanced than what is found in most airplanes. Hence, why I am here.
Saturday, October 19th, 2019 AT 9:35 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,716 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

I suspect the fuel pump failed. If it was weak at first, that would explain why you lost power on hills. I would start by checking fuel pressure. Here is a link that explains how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specifics on your vehicle. Picture 1 shows where the test port is located.

PROCEDURE
- Turn engine "OFF" and relieve system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure.
- Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to avoid spillage.
- "START" engine and observe fuel pressure reading. It should be 380-420 kPa (55-61 psi).
- Turn engine "OFF" and relieve fuel pressure.
- Remove fuel pressure gauge.
- Reinstall fuel pressure connection cap.
- "START" engine and check for fuel leaks.

Since your vehicle won't start, just turn the key to the run position to see how much pressure is built.

Also, since it won't start now, see if it does for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it does, then we know it's a fuel related issue.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, October 19th, 2019 AT 9:46 PM
Tiny
ROBERK26
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you so much! Took a couple days of working in the Alaskan bush, but I got the fuel pump changed and the truck started right up. The fuel pump I removed looked almost brand new, but it appears that whoever replaced it reused the old strainer. I suspect the pump sucked some debris up through the rear in the stitching of the old screen.
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Tuesday, October 22nd, 2019 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,716 POSTS
Welcome back:

You are very welcome, and yes I agree with your diagnosis. If it strainer was dirty, the pump will have to work much harder to draw fuel through it and it will eventually cause it to fail. I have no idea why people do what they do. The pump was out, the strainer isn't expensive, you get my point. LOL

Regardless, I'm glad to hear you got it going. Please feel free to let us know if you have questions in the future.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, October 22nd, 2019 AT 8:09 PM

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