Emergency flasher - bracket support failure

Tiny
CHICHA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
My emergency flasher works, but you need to keep it depressed with your thumb for the flasher to work. Once you let off, it no longer flashes. There is a spongy feel to it, like the underlying support bracket has given way. What part numbers do I need to repair this and is the repair complex? I am in Latin America, so the repair will be done by a Spanish-language-only mechanic. The shop's manager does speak English.
Thursday, September 21st, 2017 AT 7:48 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
CHICHA
  • MEMBER
  • 41 POSTS
Anyone? This is an important safety issue. I believe there are instructions on this website on how to remove the dashboard, but does this blinker actually have a support bracket underneath it? What supports it?
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Saturday, September 23rd, 2017 AT 9:55 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
No bracket behind the trim panel. The switch has two tabs that make it snap into the trim panel itself. The stop tabs must be broken off on your switch.

To replace it you remove the trim panel. To do that you remove the three screws from the steering column cover and remove the upper cover. Now remove the two screws in the trim panel at the top edge of the display area. Then gently use a pry tool to remove the trim panel retainers. Disconnect the hazard switch and use a screwdriver to press in the retainer tabs and remove the switch from the front of the trim panel. Snap the new switch into the hole, attach the wiring and reinstall the trim panel and steering column cover.
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Saturday, September 23rd, 2017 AT 10:40 PM
Tiny
CHICHA
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Thanks for responding. I did buy a new Hazard Warning Switch last year. This one: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1190887&jsn=3 Are you saying that the tabs are part of the hazard switch itself (the part that I linked to)? Because the problem I'm experiencing now, with the new hazard switch, is the same as I was experiencing with the old hazard switch: the switch won't stay down when pressed. When the new hazard switch was installed, no tabs broke off of it.
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Sunday, September 24th, 2017 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
If you look at the picture of the switch you can see the tabs just below the button that keep it from pushing through the dash. Your initial description sounded like you meant you pushed on the switch and it had pushed through the trim panel and was floating.

If you are pushing the button and that isn't staying in, that is a failure inside the switch itself. There is a U shaped wire with a spring that moves in a Z shaped slot. When you push the button in, the wire shifts into a different spot and holds the button down. When you push to release it the wire moves again and lets the button up.

Not something that can be repaired, instead you replace the switch assembly.
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Monday, September 25th, 2017 AT 3:27 AM
Tiny
CHICHA
  • MEMBER
  • 41 POSTS
I find it improbable that the new switch would behave in the same manner as the old switch, and as such be considered "defective". The problem more likely has to do with how the switch is seated. I bought this car new, but other people have driven it. Someone had pushed that switch in too hard. That is what is causing the problem, not a defective switch. I'll have to go to a local Chevrolet dealership. They can pull up a schematic of that whole area, so I can get a better idea as to how to solve this.
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Monday, September 25th, 2017 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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They will tell you the same thing. The switch itself simply snaps into the trim panel. There is nothing else that holds it in place. No other reinforcement behind it to attach to because then you couldn't remove the trim panel itself to replace the switch or the dimmer control.

If someone pushed the switch hard it broke the switch, either the two small sections that keep the switch from being pushed through the panel or the internal switch assembly itself. They are not made for any abuse or even constant use.

Here is the GM factory diagram and switch replacement instructions pulled directly from GM tech system.

Removal:

1 Disable the SIR system
2 Remove the instrument panel (I/P) cluster trim plate from the I/P carrier.
3 Disconnect the dimmer switch electrical connector if required.
4 Disconnect the electrical connector from the hazard warning switch.
5 With a small flat-bladed tool release the retaining tabs for the hazard warning switch.
6 From the back side of the I/P cluster trim plate, push outward on the hazard warning switch. This will remove the switch from the I/P cluster trim plate.

Installation:

1 Align the hazard warning switch to the opening in the I/P cluster trim plate.
2 Push inward on the hazard warning switch until fully seated into I/P cluster trim plate.
3 Connect the electrical connector to the hazard warning switch.
4 Connect the dimmer switch electrical connector if required.
5 Install the I/P cluster trim plate to the I/P carrier.
6 Enable the SIR.

You can do as you wish but you will be wasting money.
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Monday, September 25th, 2017 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
CHICHA
  • MEMBER
  • 41 POSTS
It could be that the tabs on the old hazard switch were broken from someone having pressed too hard on it. And when the new hazard switch was installed, it wasn't installed correctly. Thank you for the instructions.
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Monday, September 25th, 2017 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
CHICHA
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One other question just came to mind. You wrote: The switch has two tabs that make it snap into the trim panel itself". Is it possible that whatever the tabs snap into, on the trim panel itself, has been broken? Or are the tabs the weaker of the two?
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Monday, September 25th, 2017 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,443 POSTS
The trim panel is just a piece of plastic, there is a hole molded into it that the switch fits through. There is a recessed area that the outer tabs set in (red points toward button) and the inner tab (red lines to the left) simply squeezes into the hole and expand once they are through the plastic.
In the crude image I attached the two red areas right under the button are the only pieces that keep the switch from pushing through the plastic. If they broke off the switch could push father through the hole and as a result the button doesn't push in far enough that the internal toggle can lock it down (on). Instead of ON/OFF you would have push and hold for on.
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Tuesday, September 26th, 2017 AT 1:29 AM
Tiny
CHICHA
  • MEMBER
  • 41 POSTS
You wrote: "If they broke off the switch could push further through the hole." If that were the case, and they were broken off, how would that be repaired? Would you need to replace the entire instrument panel cluster trim plate?
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Tuesday, September 26th, 2017 AT 7:13 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
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Nope, the tabs are on the switch. They break off you replace the switch.

The only time I have seen trim broken was when someone smashed it HARD like in an accident or hitting it in a rage, or if they were removing it wrong and snapped it. The switches on the other hand are about like handling fine glass, sneeze hard and they break. For the most part a hazard switch might be used 10-15 times during a normal vehicles life. They don't make them any stronger than they think they need to be.
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Tuesday, September 26th, 2017 AT 7:42 AM

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