The van was running fine, no problems indicated. My wife stopped for gas, when finished the starter would not crank when the key was turned. All of the dash lights come on, the lights and windows work with no problems. The fuel pump comes on, but the starter will not crank. I checked the battery, I have 12.46 volts, load tested it and it dropped to 11.94 volts, I tested with Midtronics tested to rule out a possible shorted cell, passed the Midtronic with no problems. I did a voltage drop test to the starter and only dropped.04 volts. Have good ground and good battery voltage to the starter. Tested the relay and relay circuit, relay is good, I have battery voltage at pin 30, and when I jump the relay, I can get the starter to crank within problem. But even with the key in the run position and jumping the relay to crank the starter, the engine will not fire. As a last ditch shot in the dark and because it was cheap, I replaced the ignition switch with a new one, no change. I know that the key fob is being recognized, because the security light will flash, then go out. Last thing I checked was the ADS relay and circuit, relay tested good, I have two battery voltage power inputs to the relay, and with the key on engine off, I get one good ground, but the other ground is weak. I used a test light for the ground circuit. I know the PCM is where the ground comes from for this, is it possible I have an issue with the IPM itself? Also, on the starter relay circuit, when the key is in the crank position, I am not getting any voltage to the starter relay. Is this because of the weak ground to the ADS? I have removed the IPM from the van. I did see that when disconnecting the connectors under the IPM, there are a lot of corroded pins in almost all of the connectors, and the corresponding pins of the IPM. Looking to see if I have overlooked anything in diagnosing this, and if I am in the right track with suspecting the IPM itself?
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Saturday, September 8th, 2018 AT 3:06 AM