Car stalls after removing the negative terminal off

Idling speed should only be adjusted when the engine has reached operating temperature.

Tightening the idle adjust screw would decrease the idling speed and not increase it if I read your comment correctly.

The usual position for the idling speed adjusting screw is about 1/2 to 3/4 turn from fully closed.

If the idling speed is too low, turning on the A/C can cause it to stall but the IAC is computer controlled to compensate the additional load from the compressor and maintain at 700 rpm.

Start with the basics, and work your way up, Last tune up was? Wires plugs ALL filters? If all that is ok, check for a stuck EGR, then test fuel pump pressure, If it won't restart, determine what's missing, the engine needs three things to run, Spark at all plugs, gas to all cylinders, and compression in all cylinders, tho an engine may run lacking one in one cylinder, it won't run very well!
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_fuel_injection_pressure.htm
Go here and checkout our video.
https://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_video/test_engine_ignition_system.htm
and this one!
https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_check_compression.htm
Let me know what's missing.
To check the sensor:
TDC/CKP/CYP SENSOR

Page 1 of 1
1.Turn ignition off. Unplug TDC/CKP/CYP sensor connector, located at distributor. Check resistance between terminals "B" and "F", terminals "C" and "G" and terminals "D" and "H". See Fig. 5 . If resistance is 700-1300 ohms (350-700 ohms for Accord F22B2 engine and Odyssey) for each pair, go to next step. If any of resistance is not as specified, replace distributor. 2.Check for continuity between each distributor terminal and chassis ground. If continuity exists at any terminal, replace distributor.

Loosen the screw and pull it out. Clean the dirst attached to it.
Remove the air cleaner hose.
Get a can of carb cleaner to spray into the throttle body.
Get a piece of rag to scrub the inner part of the throttle body. Remember to push the throttle plate opened fully, the part that the plate seats on when closed is the most important to be clean.
Spray carb cleaner into the idle adjust screw hole and the 2 other ports inside the throttle body.
Let the carb cleaner soak.
Reinstall the idle adjust screw and back off 1/2 turn from fully tightened. DO NOT force tighten the idle adjust screw.
Retest by starting the engine and allowing to warm up to operating temperature.
Note : Initial starting coud be difficult due to the presence of excessive carb cleaner and the running might be erratic for a short while.

When A/C is turned on, if the idle drops before going back up, remove the 2 holding bolts of the IAC at rear of manifold. Spray carb cleaner into the ports to clear the dirt inside.

Hi W. Kipp,

You need an OBD I compliant scanner or diagnostic tester to gain access via the DLC.

For manual DTC retrieval, bridge the SCS connector and count the blinks of the CEL with the ignition switch turned on.

In the drawing you will see that there are three bolts per cam so probably not that. More than likely the tensioner broke so you may as well pull heads because this is an interference engine and valves have hit the pistons so hard telling what damage has been done.

Hi efinnell,

Symptoms are consistent with an intermittently failing PGM-FI main relay. This is a known fault and if you resolder the PGM-FI main relay circuit board, it would work as good if not better than a new one. The cause are broken soldered joints on the circuit board.

I have also seen the ignition distributor cause this issue remove the cap and look for rust colored dust which is a sign the distributor is bad. Please let me know.

Hi skruskol,

Yes, a replacement engine plus labour would cost more than what the car is worth.

It would be more economical to get another car.

It sounds like that motor is about gone. With that mileage it's not a surprise and driving it in that condition is just finishing it off.

It would need too much and wouldn't be worth it. Look for a good used one.