DTC P2004 Intake Runner Stuck Open

Tiny
RANDY SHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
Well I have got this focus running good I put some new coils and plugs and it did the trick, but I am still stuck with this P2004 code, I still don't have the money to have it put on a diagnostic machine and this car has no current tags. I would appreciate any help I can get, so there is nothing wrong with the solenoids, I swapped them and when you put the IMTV solenoid and this is the one that works it does the same as the IMRC does and I put vacuum to both actuators and they hold vacuum the IMRC solenoid is not letting vacuum through it is getting vacuum just not coming through. You think I should take the intake off and take a look at the flappers, I figured I should have done that first I don't want to take it off for nothing, you think the position sensor in the actuator is bad I know it could be the signal circuit shorted to power ground or signal return, but I don't know how to do that.I hope some one can help me please.
Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 2:06 PM

12 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check all items in pic first.
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Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
RANDY SHARP
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Do you think you could tell me how to go about finding a IMRC circuit open or shorted VPWR or ground, what does VREF stand for? Thank you for the help.
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Friday, April 1st, 2016 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
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Vref= vehicke reference signal from pcm. Like at tps. Or many other sensors. See pics for where it canc be shorted or grounded. Also there is amodule for this so a scanner has to be used to check that and it needs to be a pro scanner not one bought at auto parts.
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Saturday, April 2nd, 2016 AT 6:26 AM
Tiny
RANDY SHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 165 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
I will be a little more clear the actuator that runs the IMRC for vacuum the vacuum part is okay, it holds vacuum it is the electrical plug that plugs in to the actuator. It runs the position sensor part there are three wires and the black blue that is suppose to be getting five volts is only getting three volts this is the problem Ford dealership has been all over the circuits and they are suspecting an open circuit maybe. Like I said they put a new PCM an updated version or something anyway, where would I be looking for a open circuit? I figure I will have to get a wiring diagram and follow it to where ever it goes. This is the problem. Does any one know or have any experience in this field? Thank You
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hey Randy,

Going after this in a different way, good to see, here is the wiring diagram but I would check the reference volts before digging in to confirm what Ford found, its seems pretty rare that the system would have only three volts while the remainder of the system is okay, usually the whole system goes down to three volts in which case you would have many problems, anyway let me know what you find. The IMRC is at the bottom of the diagram.

Best, Ken
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE3232
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Anyway you can get the page before this? I had something eat the wires and cant find where wire 10 or 12 goes. Thanks
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Hello,

Here is the engine wiring diagrams for the complete system and a guide to help you test the connections

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE3232
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Thanks
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDY SHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 165 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
The plug that plugs into the actuator, the actuator is not getting the proper voltage in the black/blue wire only three volts suppose to have five volts reference. Then you test the white/red wire and then it suppose to have five volts when it has no vacuum and when vacuum is applied it goes down to two volts. The dealership had this car and I did test this prior to this and it had only three volts and the dealership found the same thing they put a new PCM in so we know it is not that the tech said open circuit? So from the plug for the actuator on back is something wrong open circuit, short to ground or power. I am getting a wire diagram it should not be all that bad I just wish I was better at electrical. Any ideas from any of you? I know you guys are smart?
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Following your description, especially when we do not have a wiring diagram to look at or symptoms to think about. I can offer one suggestion for finding some voltage at a test point but not the right voltage. You know a wire cannot be shorted to ground if there is something on it, and the assumption is it cannot be open either, but one thing to watch out for when you have some voltage but less than expected, is to be sure you are taking your readings with everything plugged in. If you have a burned-open fuse link wire in a high-current circuit, the resulting carbon track inside the insulation will pass enough current for a digital voltmeter to pick up some voltage and give a false indication. In that case a test light would be more accurate because not enough current can get through the carbon track to run it, so you would correctly see 0 volts.

The same thing can happen in sensor and actuator / solenoid circuits due to a corroded splice. Multiple sensors will be fed from the same 5.0 volt source in the Engine Computer. That corrosion can be all that is between two broken wire ends, and a voltmeter can easily see some voltage if the sensor is unplugged.

Think of standing on a garden hose and blocking ninety nine percent of it. If the nozzle at the end is closed, you will still have full pressure there. Voltage is electrical pressure. If you open the nozzle, (plug in the sensor), and give the water, (current), a place to flow, you will drop the pressure across the corroded splice or the water will drip onto your shoe.

Perhaps that will modify your thinking about the voltage readings you are finding.
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RANDY SHARP
  • MEMBER
  • 165 POSTS
  • 2003 FORD FOCUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
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DTC P2004 Intake runner valve stuck open. Does anyone know how to test the valve to see if it is the actuator or the solenoid they are both expensive parts, so I would like to know for sure which one, the arm that is by the actuator and goes to the flappers is not moving at all. So does any one know what is the best way to trouble shoot this and know for sure what to buy. I would appreciate it. Also the solenoids which there are two they have vacuum coming from the intake and it goes out another line to the actuators
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
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I ansered this with telling you to scan please don't repeat questions and not give all the info. First check for vacuum leaks, bad grommets, sticking throttle plate which you clean on both sides with choke cleaner and iac hole. Check for binding solenoid or not working properly seepics to test but a pro scanner should be used for this
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Monday, January 13th, 2020 AT 10:47 AM (Merged)

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