Drivers side taillight/parking lights are not working properly

Hi,

The bulb for the brake light and parking light is a duel element light. Basically, that means one bulb functions as two. If one of the elements goes bad, the other can still work. Have you checked the bulbs? I believe it takes a 3057 bulb. If you open the rear hatch, there will be two push pins holding the light assembly in place. Carefully remove them.

Next, there are two ball studs which will continue to hold the light assembly. Pull the outboard side of the lamp rearward far enough to disengage the two ball studs on the back of the lamp housing from the plastic grommets. This can be difficult because they hold the assembly tightly, but it will come off.

I attached a pic below and highlighted the push pins I mentioned. Once you remove the light, you will find two light sockets (the backs of them) One is a back up light and will be in the portion of assembly that is clear on the front. The other is the one we need to replace.

Turn the socket approximately 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove the socket. Pull the bulb straight out and replace it the same way with a new one. Please conform that the old bulb is a 3057. I am saying that from memory

When you replace the assembly, gently push the plastic grommets into the ball sockets mounted on the inside of the fender. It will make it easier if you can lubricate them first.

Let me know if you have any questions or need help. If you have a chance, let me know if this helped.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

It does sound like something is loose. Have you checked to make sure the connection at the headlight switch is good? It could also be the switch itself going bad. The next time they don't work, play around with the switch to see if you can get them to turn on. If they do, then replace the switch.

If you want, I have the diagnostic flow chart for testing the switch. It is a little involved, but if you want it, let me know.

Here are directions for removal and replacement of the switch. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

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2012 Dodge or Ram Truck Durango 4WD V6-3.6L
Headlamp Switch - Removal
Vehicle Sensors and Switches Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns Headlamp Switch Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Headlamp Switch - Removal
HEADLAMP SWITCH - REMOVAL
REMOVAL

WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, airbag, seat belt tensioner, impact sensor or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment.

Pic 1

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Place the headlamp switch (1) rotary knob (4) in the OFF (O) position.
3. Push in on the rotary knob to engage the switch retainer (2) retractor mechanism.
4. Still holding the switch rotary knob depressed, rotate the knob clockwise toward the park lamps ON position to retract the two switch retainers. The retainers will be fully retracted before the rotary knob actually reaches the park lamps ON position.
5. With the switch rotary knob still in the retainer retractor position, pull the switch out of the cylinder-like mounting hole far enough to access and disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the connector receptacle (3) on the back of the switch housing.
6. Remove the headlamp switch from the instrument panel.

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2012 Dodge or Ram Truck Durango 4WD V6-3.6L
Headlamp Switch - Installation
Vehicle Sensors and Switches Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns Headlamp Switch Service and Repair Removal and Replacement Headlamp Switch - Installation
HEADLAMP SWITCH - INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION

WARNING: To avoid serious or fatal injury on vehicles equipped with airbags, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) before attempting any steering wheel, steering column, airbag, seat belt tensioner, impact sensor or instrument panel component diagnosis or service. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative (ground) cable, then wait two minutes for the system capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service. This is the only sure way to disable the SRS. Failure to take the proper precautions could result in accidental airbag deployment.

Pic 2

NOTE: Before attempting to install the headlamp switch (1), be certain that both pawl-like retainers (2) are extended outward from the body of the switch. If the retainers are in the retracted position, rotating the headlamp switch rotary knob (4) to the OFF (O) position should disengage the retainer retractor mechanism causing the retainers to spring outward from the switch body.

1. Position the headlamp switch (1) close enough to the cylinder-like switch mounting hole in the instrument panel to reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector to the connector receptacle (3) on the back of the switch housing.
2. Position and align the switch in the center of the switch mounting hole of the instrument panel.
3. Using hand pressure, press the switch firmly and evenly into the mounting hole until it is fully seated. An indication that the switch is fully seated will be a light audible click as each of the two pawl-like retainers (2) snap into place within the mounting hole.
4. Reconnect the battery negative cable.

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Let me know if you want the chart.

Take care,
Joe

The wire that you repaired must now be shorted to power. This is going to be a tough one for me not being there because someone added things and taped them together. Is the trailer harness factory? Is this something that was fixed?

Let me know.

Joe

That makes sense. Are you able to remove the harness? I suspect something in the harness now is shorted to ground and that is causing the lights to stay on.

I have heard of the brand before. I never really had trouble but it has a lot to do with how it was installed. When I hear connections are twisted and taped together, that concerns me.

Let me know.

Joe

Let me know what you find. I copied one of your pics and circled wire in it. If you look below, tell me if the wire with the red circle is bare. If it is, could it be shorting to the one circled in black? It looks rough but hard to tell in a pic.

What is the item I circled in blue? As far as the wire nut in pic 1, replace it with a butt connector or solder and use heat shrink to protect it. It looks like a wire that may be going to a marker light.

Let me know how you make out with this.

Joe