Seat not working?

If this vehicle has had the air bag deployed then the seat module must be reprogrammed because there is a code stuck in memory. check around parking brake where harnesses are and see if any are chafed or cut that may be a problem. finally scan for codes as it may show a code. Here is a guide to help us with the CAN scan

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

What does "some power" mean? Check the red wire to the power seat switch. It should have 12 volts all the time. To be most accurate, that should be measured by back-probing the wire with the connector plugged in. Alternately, a test light works better for this test, but if all you have is a digital voltmeter, that will be okay too.

Dandy. Now the potential problem is there can be a break in the wire with just one tiny strand left, and that is enough for a digital meter to detect 12 volts, but it's not sufficient to pass the amount of current needed to run a motor. If you tested the wire with a test light, those draw more current and we can believe it. To be safe, and to insure we are not glossing over a clue, test that wire while the switch is plugged in and you activate one of those switches. Either that 12 volts is going to stay there, or it is going to drop close to 0 volts. If it drops to 0 volts, we have to treat that red wire as not having 12 volts. This may seem like overkill, but it is exactly the type of mistake that sends experts down the wrong path.

There are actually 12 switch contacts built into the driver's seat switch assembly, and we know they did not all fail at the same time. Also, there are three motors, and they also did not fail at the same time. That only leaves the ground circuit as the source of the defect. We can use any of the three circuits for testing. I am going to pick the forward/backward switch, just so I can tell you which wires to probe. These next tests must be done with the switch plugged in.

Back-probe the tan and the light green wires. Both will have 0 volts when the switch is released. Now, while watching one of those wires, move the switch in one direction, then the other direction. In one of those directions you should find 12 volts on the tan wire, and 0 volts on the light green wire. In the other direction, you should find 12 volts on the light green wire and 0 volts on the tan wire. If you find 12 volts on both wires at the same time, regardless of which way you push the switch, the ground wire has a break. If that is what you find, measure the voltage on the black wire while the switch is pressed and you have that 12 volts on the tan and light green wires. If you find 12 volts on the black wire, there is a break in that wire or where the wire is bolted to the body, near the base of the left "B" pillar. If you find 0 volts on the black wire, either there is break inside the switch, (very uncommon), or that terminal is not making good contact.

Check routing of harness under seat as that has been a problem on earlier models also check for good connection at switch. You may have to take that area off to check it the pedal ground is non HVAC on right hand side see if it is a good connection. Finally have a mechanic scan for codes. One other thing check grounds on engine for no corrosion's. I have also included a tip which others have found see picture.

What did you find on both wires when the switch was pressed one way? If you found 12 volts on both at the same time, you should have also found 12 volts on the black wire. Check that black wire. If you see any voltage, even if it's less than 12 volts, (but not 0 volts), there is a break in that black wire.

There's no purple wire on my diagram. I suppose there could be a white tracer on the black wire, but that isn't shown on my diagram.

To double-check, your test light clip lead or meter negative probe should be on ground, meaning a paint-free point on the body. This way we're taking voltage readings AT a point in the circuit, as opposed to between two points. Those are just two different ways of doing this, but we have to be sure we're both doing it the same way.

Measure the voltage on your black / white wire while you activate the switches. Do you see anything other than 0 volts at any time?

Do you hear the motor trying to run when you pull the switch? Check fuses.

I see eight wires in it, which is correct. Check where the wires go to. The wires must go to the three motors under the seat. There is another version that is for heated / climate-controlled seats. I don't know how many wires are in that plug.

IF you can get to the connector for the motor under the seat. Get a test light and see if when you pull the switch that you are getting power to the motor.

Yup. Without going back to the diagram, if you have 12 volts on multiple wires when a switch is activated, you're missing the ground. As I recall, the ground wire is bolted to the "B" pillar next to the driver's seat. I suspect you'll have to pop off a plastic trim cover and / or pull up the carpet.

A better way to verify this, without even having to worry about wire colors, is to measure the voltage across the two wires right at a motor's connector. If you're finding 10.7 volts on the ground wire, you're going to find the remainder of the 12 volts across the motor. That will be less than two and a half volts, which is not enough to make a motor run.