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2003 Dodge Truck blower motor

Tiny
TOMRATHJE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 DODGE TRUCK
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 107,000 MILES
I need some advice on a blower motor issue.

The blower in my 2003 Dodge 2500 CTD worked intermittently for about 2 weeks and is now not working at all.

I tried to replace the resistor, but that did not solve the problem.

I have taken a voltage meter and used the ohm setting to check all the connections. I have good connections from the steering column to the motor, from the motor to the dash switch and from the dash switch to the resistor. I checked the resistor, the motor and the dash switch with no indication of a short.

It appears I don't have power to the blower. I checked the incoming green wire with the truck running and got a '0' voltage reading.

Do I need a new ignitiion switch? Multi-purpose switch? What could be causing this and where do I look next?
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Saturday, May 10th, 2008 AT 9:24 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
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What kind of dodge truck?
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
TOMRATHJE
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It is a 2003 (early 2003) Ram 3/4 ton with the Cummins Turbo Diesel.
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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The power comes directly from the ignition switch so either the wire is broken from the ignition switch to the blower motor or the ignition switch is bad. Hope this helps
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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 7:53 PM
Tiny
TOMRATHJE
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Thanks for your help!

When I checked the green wire from the switch to the blower with the voltage meter on the ohm setting (a setting that beeps if under 100 ohm), I did get a reading that the wire was ok. If I can trust that test, I guess that's the answer then.

Should I be able to register voltage on the meter at the blower plug if I placed one end of the tester in the plug and the other on the ground by the right side battery? I would think this would be the right way to do it, but I thought I better ask.
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Monday, May 12th, 2008 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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Yes. Voltage is supplied at all times and the ground resistance varies due to setting of selector switch. If you dont have 12v then replace the ignition switch
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Tuesday, May 13th, 2008 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
TOMRATHJE
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Thanks Tim. The ignition switch solved the problem. Have a beer or two on me!

The truck seems to be having trouble switching to the defrost mode, so I may be back with some more questions on that in the future!
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Tuesday, May 20th, 2008 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
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Awesome. The internet is amazing. Who would have thought you could fix a car over a computer from a guy across the country without draining your bank account. Thanks for the donation
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Tuesday, May 20th, 2008 AT 11:15 AM
Tiny
TOMRATHJE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Tim. If you're stil out there, I have another problem I need help on.

My 2003 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 L Cummins will not start when it goes below about 50 degrees F. I need to plug in the block heater, then, after warming, it starts fine.

This is a headache to say the least.

I can rule out fuel.

I believe the fuel rail and air intake heaters are functioning as I can hear them cycle on/off after turning on the ignition and before starting. I also see the lights dim and the fan motor slow after the truck is started, which I think would suggest the air intake heaters are working. However, how do I check these are actually doing their job?

I had a blown fuse in the fuel heater that attaches to the housing of the fuel filter. However, this was replaced months ago and has not blown since. How do I check to see this element is working and is it even necessary for a cold weather start. I think this only keeps the fuel filter from gelling up, but I may be wrong.

Third, I've read where this is cause also by a faulty or worn out fuel control actuator. This repair seems easy enough, but the part is $150 so I want to make sure I'm right before replacing it. How do I check this out?

I don't see any white smoke upon starting that would suggest injector problems.

Since I won't be near an outlet at every stop all winter, I need to figure this out! I read about our Canadien friends starting these things down to 20 below without a block heater so clearly something is wrong here.

Any suggestions?

TR
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Thursday, November 20th, 2008 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/139033_coil_8.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/139033_gov_7.jpg

diesels are not my specialty but i just gave myself a crash course in this system and it seems pretty simple. i would first start by checking power at the fuel heater because you said it had a blown fuse. it should have power with key on and outside air temp below 50 degrees. if it has power then you need to install a amp meter in series with the hot lead to it and make sure its actually working. you can also ohm out the heater and see if it is open. lets start there
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Friday, November 21st, 2008 AT 5:29 AM
Tiny
TOMRATHJE
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Thanks, I will start there, but now I'm out of town so it may be a few days.

I took it to the dealer on Friday and they are telling me I have at least 2 bad injectors and that this is causing the starting problem. Not getting enough fuel to the cylinders to start. However, I'm confused by this logic. While the 'not enough fuel' arguement makes sense. Why would it not start if only two injectors are 'bad'. Also, how would they know if 2 are bad given they haven't opened up the fuel rail. Is there a code for this?

I asked if they had checked the other components and he said they had and 'they were all fine'. Just not sure I trust what is going on here.

The injectors are $500 each. Whew!

Thanks, TR
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 8:25 AM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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It sounds very logical 2 injectors are bad. This system does not use glow plugs as you know and its very important all 6 cylinders are firing equally. You said it was running fine when warm so that makes me wonder how 2 injectors are bad but maybe they are out of resistance not allowing for enough fuel flow.
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Saturday, November 22nd, 2008 AT 12:06 PM

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