Take it to a qualified, trained mechanic. Nothing is hated more than trying to fix the original problem along with all the other problems put in by people who don't realize how complex these vehicles are. While you might be able to do the job, are you aware the fumes from some sealers will destroy the oxygen sensors? Or that coolant that leaks into the engine oil will melt engine bearings?
450,000 miles is impressive. If you tackle this job, be sure to clean all the dirt to prevent it from falling into the crankcase. Follow the torque specs and sequence for the bolts. You will have to remove one valve cover because the lip overlaps the manifold. You only have to remove one valve cover because the manifold can be slipped under the other one.
Compare the new gaskets to the old ones. Sometimes coolant passages are purposely blocked by the gasket because the head can be bolted to either side of the engine but only certain passages in the head are used depending on which side the head is used. Often the front coolant passage is blocked forcing coolant to flow through the head to the rear rather than bypassing it. If coolant is able to bypass a head, you might never know it but overheating of the valves and seats will result. It might take long enough for valve problems to show up that it won't be associated with the manifold gaskets.
To help the manifold wedge down in between the heads, start all the bolts first, then torque them in order, in two steps. Don't just crank them all down. I like to tighten them all to around 10 foot / pounds first, then the full amount.
Caradiodoc
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Saturday, April 25th, 2009 AT 2:58 AM
