1979 Dodge Ram Fuel to Carburater

COWBOYHILLBILLY

MEMBER
1979 DODGE RAM

Engine Mechanical problem
1979 Dodge Ram V8 All Wheel Drive Automatic alot miles

I have a 5.9L 360. I was having trouble with it dieing at stop lights and when I put it in reverse to back up, ect. I replaced the carburater and it is now a manual choke with 750 CFM. The mechanical fuel pump has been replaced 2 times and I put on a electric fuel pump when I replaced the carb. The electric fuel pump does not suck much, it was hooked up with the manual as a booster. It started easy when I hooked up the electric fuel pump, this is after I went to get one to help it pump more fuel. When I put my truck into drive it moved ok. I went to bed and started the engine the next morning.I had to prime it to get it running and I had to get to work. This took several tries, When I would put it into drive, the engine would die. It worked fine when it warmed up and I got it to work. There is a slight oil leak and it is again low on oil. I went out to start it again that day when returning from a 12 hour shift and can not get it to run. It fires when I prime it. There is no fuel going to the carb. The gas tank has 5 or more gallons of fuel. I know this because I dumped that into it after trying to prime it when I went to get something to prime it with. I blew on the line and can blow and suck fuel myself. The mechanical fuel pump will not be effective until the engine is already running. The electric fuel pump will not suck good. The gas gauge always reads 3/4 of a tank when it is full It takes it a while to read that though. How do I get it to suck fuel to the carburater and keep prime? Is there something I could have left off of the carb? I mistakenly left the rear vaccuum port open and had some trouble getting it to run but I fixed that when I put on the electronic fuel pump. The carb also catches fire sometimes. I am putting an electric choke on it to help with choking it. I have messed with the choke to try to get it to run but this doesn't help much when it is already not getting fuel. The line is bone dry. I also have tried bypasing the mechanical fuel pump, then the electric fuel pump, then the fuel filter.

4 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,755 POSTS

Wow! First, I learned to drive on a 78, so I am in this with you for the long haul. Don't worry, we'll figure it out. I would love to find one that was in good shape.

As far as your problem, are you aware that the mechanical pump is run by a lobe on the camshaft? My concern is that it is worn and as a result, the pump isn't fully working. Thus, you don't get enough fuel. As far as the carb, you mentioned it was 750CFM. Is it a 4bbL? When you worked on it, was the needle and seat working properly? Did you properly adjust the float drop? Next, have you checked fuel pump volume? Finally, what is catching fire on the carb? Is it backfiring through it?

LEt me know.

Joe

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Sunday, May 2nd, 2010 AT 10:42 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,755 POSTS

One other question I forgot to ask. WHere have you located the electric fuel pump and how many PSI is it producing?

Joe

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Sunday, May 2nd, 2010 AT 10:44 PM

COWBOYHILLBILLY

MEMBER
2 POSTS

First, thanks a lot. My dad had a 76 and a 79 Ramcharger. The power wagon I have is in great shape. My dad and I repainted it before I joined the Air Force. I have replaced the starter, voltage regulator, ignition module, and battery. It is all mostly original. The only thing different is it has the eddy carb and intake manifold and mag wheels. We even kept it the same base color, the only exception I made it a two tone, cocoa brown and a tan-yellow color. It is pretty sharp. It has one small dent where my brother in law borrowed it and he worked at a prison. Someone didn't like him there and saw him driving it and took it out on my truck. I am aware the mechanical pump is run by a lobe on the camshaft. My dad brought this up and it is why I put an electronic fuel pump on it since I had replaced it once already. It didn't pump very well. The electronic fuel pump was located between the bulb and the mechanical fuel pump as a sort of booster. I checked the electronic fuel pump out and it didn't suck very well. It was rated for 5-7 PSI. I bought it at Shucks automotive in Puyallup, Washington. The carb is a 4bbL and it is brand new out of the box. What is a needle and seat? Where is the float drop? The carb is backfiring and it has caught fire 2 times. I have not checked fuel pump volume but I am aware for the carb, I need around 5.5 lbs of fuel to run it effectively. It is recommended I get no more than 6psi. I figured if anything the mechanical and electrical fuel pump would flood the carb. The line is bone dry. I don't know how many PSI the electric fuel pump is actually producing... Can't be much. I didn't feel much suction from it when I unhooked it, pretty much expelled vapors.

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Monday, May 3rd, 2010 AT 9:10 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,755 POSTS

First, if you come across another truck like yours for sale, let me know. I live in PA and they all rusted at the frame between the frame and fuel tank. As a result, they are no longer around.

Now for your truck. The needle and seat is attached the the float in the carb. As the carb's fuel bowl fills, the float rises until it pushes the needle shut in its seat. Thus, no more gas can enter the carb until some is used by the engine and the level drops again.

Your problem is that you are not getting enough fuel to run. Chances are it is backfiring through the carb and catching it on fire.

Since you are not getting any pressure from the electric pump, get a new one. However, bypass the mechanical pump and go straight to the carb. Make sure the new pump meets the needs of the new carb as far as PSI. Try that and let me know what you find.

Joe

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Monday, May 3rd, 2010 AT 10:52 AM