Turn the ignition key and I get nothing?

Tiny
CKOPCZYNSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 DODGE NEON
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
I turn the ignition key and I get nothing why?
Thursday, January 21st, 2010 AT 11:09 AM

37 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
This sounds like the starter is having problems or the battery needs to be load tested these guides can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back. I'd make sure the battery has a full charge and the connections are good. Next, I'd check the voltage circuits at the starter relay, in the power distribution center, under the hood. Also, your theft/security system might cause an issue? Did you try cranking in neutral?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_03_dodge_neon_starter_circuit_1.jpg

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Thursday, January 21st, 2010 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
LAG2991
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2002 DODGE NEON
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 99,000 MILES
Having same problem over last month since I bought the car. It will not turn over at all, but there is plenty of juice. Every once in awhile it will start after about twenty attempts. It will start a few days without issue.

Have replaced the solenoid, and the starter twice. Electrically it reads good but that is only after it starts to take it to the garage so they are not reading it when it does not work.

The key sometimes catches. The fob is so old that it does not work and is missing buttons.

I was reading somewhere that the key for this car has a transponder, but I do not know that for sure.

Guesses on it being a key issue? I would hate to spend $200.00 on new key if it is not. So far I am at nearly $300.00 on this starting issue and it is not fixed.

Also, any cheaper ways to get a transponder key that works?

Thanks!
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

The key does have a transponder in it, but the anti-theft or security light will flash or illuminate if the transponder is bad. If that is not happening, I question the ignition switch itself since you mentioned it catches at times. First, the ignition switch is not part of the cylinder where the key goes. It is an electrical device located in the steering column. There is a shaft which is moved when you turn the key which engages it. I hate to suggest this and be wrong, but you may want to inspect it to determine if something is loose and not allowing the shaft to properly engage the switch.

Here are directions for removal and replacement of the switch. I am not saying to replace it, but the directions show how to access it and work on it. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

_____________________________________________

IGNITION SWITCH REMOVAL

The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing on the end opposite the lock cylinder.
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Place key cylinder in RUN position. Through the hole in the lower shroud, depress lock cylinder retaining tab and remove key cylinder.
3. Remove upper and lower shrouds from steering column.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors from ignition switch.
5. Remove ignition switch mounting screw with a #10 Torx bit.
6. Depress retaining tabs and pull ignition switch from steering column.

INSTALLATION
1. Ensure the ignition switch is in the RUN position and the actuator shaft in the lock housing is in the RUN position.
2. Carefully install the ignition switch. The switch will snap over the retaining tabs. Install mounting screw.
3. Install electrical connectors to ignition switch.
4. Install upper and lower shrouds.
5. Install key cylinder (cylinder retaining tab will depress only in the RUN position).
6. Connect negative cable to battery.
7. Check for proper operation of ignition switch and key-in warning switch.

_____________________________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know your thoughts or questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MISTY LIGHT-LEMLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 DODGE NEON
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 190,000 MILES
Hey, maybe you can offer some advice. Turned car off, was running fine. Went back to leave turn the key over and nothing. No lights on dash, no clicking, no sound at all. I have replaced starter, battery, and relays, and fuses. I have checked starter solonoid wire, and ground wire to engine block. Have checked everything I can think to check and still nothing. Car has no sercurity system. But does absolutely nothing when key is turned over.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,864 POSTS
This is rather common on all car brands. Start by following the smaller battery positive wire to the under-hood fuse box. Check that connection. You may need to shine it up, then be sure the connection is tight. Also follow the smaller negative wire to the body and be sure that connection is tight and not rusty. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BSKT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE NEON
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 184,000 MILES
Ok. Where to begin.
The car will not crank. I checked the fuses and the relays; it appears they are all good. I jumped terminal 30 to 87 on the starter relay and the starter engages, There is power to terminal 86 when I engage the ignition to crank. There is no ground at terminal 85. I checked the center post of the neutral safety switch and I have continuity to the transmission case. When I turned the key to the on position and jumped the starter it would crank but would not start. I tried the key dance to pull possible codes; I got nothing and the check engine light does not illuminate when I turn the ignition to the on position. What would you suggest is my next step to diagnose the problem?
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Ok I have adiagram now check fuse 9 under hood then where yellow wires enter should be on when you go to start then brown wire is activated for pcm finally to starter. If you hear clicking at the starter hit the body of starter with a hammer if it starts you need a starter.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BSKT
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
To clarify, it was the starter relay thank you
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE NEON
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 97,000 MILES
Started with a no-crank issue. Replaced the starter, no joy. Have twelve volts at starter from battery. Traced signals to starter relay and fuse. Twelve volts so all good there.
Could not communicate with PCM so replaced PCM with used one from salvage yard. Started but idled extremely high on three attempts. After forth attempt back to same issue, no-crank.
Replaced the ignition switch and neutral safety switch out of frustration, still no joy.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Have you checked if you are getting power to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position? It is the smaller wire on the starter which only gets power when the key is in the start position. You mentioned there is power to the starter relay, have you tried a new relay?

Also, make sure the grounds are all good to the engine block from the battery. Based on your description, it does sound like a grounding problem.

Here is a how to for checking a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Have not yet checked power to the solenoid. Only way for me to get to it is to remove the intake unless you have a better suggestion. Cannot reach form underneath.
Yes, swapped the relay with a known good one. Have checked the grounds and all seem good but will verify again.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
If there is power to the relay, we need to check if it is getting to the starter. If it is not, there is either a wire issue between the two or a ground problem. Do me a favor, check continuity between the battery ground and the engine. While doing that, move the main ground wire around to see if there is any disruption in the connection. Other than that, we need to check power at the solenoid.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Great idea, did not think of that. I am not near the vehicle presently but will run that check tonight. Thanks!
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Checked the battery to engine ground while moving cable, checks out okay. Thinking about power to the solenoid. Given that I had the car started after replacing the PCM, seems to me the solenoid power/wire is not the problem? Although I suppose it could have an intermittent failure in the wire.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Anything is possible. Keep in mind, if there is power to the solenoid (smaller wire) when the key is in the start position, the starter is bad. If there is no power, you will need to trace that wire back to find where the open circuit is. I assume you tried switching the starter relay with a different one with the same part number.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Yes, switched the starter relay with a known good one with same part number.
Will check the solenoid wire tonight. Checked the solenoid wire. No power when in the start position. What role does the PCM play at this point? I just noticed the idle control valve is making a buzzing sound. Can reset it by unplugging the connector and plugging back in. Do not think this could cause a no crank situation?
Double checked all the circuits. Twelve volts at the starter relay pin 30 and 86 when in start position. Have ground at pin 85, so unless the idle control valve can cause a no crank I will have to trace the solenoid wire. Thanks for the help so far.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,256 POSTS
Can I ask if the security light is flashing while you try and crank it over?
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
This vehicle doesn't have a security system.
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,256 POSTS
We are loosing power somewhere here is a guide and a starter wiring diagram so you can test where the power is being lost.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KRHODES11
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Was away for a bit and got back to the vehicle last night so late in replying.
Traced the solenoid wire, no shorts or grounds, and verified continuity. All good.
Went back and checked starter relay circuitry.
12v at pin 30 and 86 when cranking but now no ground at pin 85 from PCM?
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Thursday, April 15th, 2021 AT 6:56 PM (Merged)

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