Change Crank Sensor

Okay, did you soak it in WD40 or some kind of lubricant?

Roy

Did you came up with a CPS code? If not try doing below when it refuses to start to determine if its fuel or spark problem

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Let it soak for a bit. Then go back and try to get it to turn. It will take time and patience to get it out at this point.

Roy

Sounds good.

Roy

In the engine management system-parameters and actuators are monitored by the computer to command and control a given sensor and actuator in order for the engine to perform properly.

Please stay on your original post. TY

Crankshaft position sensor is located on the passenger's side of transmission housing, above teh differential housing.

It mounts on the front black timing cover, and usually held in with a single 10mm screw, on a 3.3l its an easy job, there is no setting up the engine in any certain spot, just remove and install. I use a 1/4 inch ratchet and 10 mm wrench.
The 3.5L has less room, some guys take the belt off, I don't I use a swicel socket 1/4 inch drive. It's really just unscrew and screw the new one in. I would get the new one to match up the connectors to make sure it's right before I took it out. Ok

Code 11 means the logic module has no memory of seeing a signal from the ignition reference sensor. Crank the engine and check for the code again. If the logic module saw a signal, the code will be cleared. This code will not show up if the sensor simply fails. The logic module must be reset and the engine cranked to see if the sensor is working.

Also, a bad connection or wiring can cause the problem- Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.

Finally, they are the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor at the base of the distributer cap. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around.

Let me know what you find.

Joe