2003 Dodge Intrepid Timing

OK. I have obtained a code scanner. 19 codes were stored (probably from the past 5 years). Therefore, I cleared them. Put as much back together as I needed to start it up. The check engine light came on. The code was P0300 - random misfire. Many of the codes that were included in the original 19 were specific cylindar/coil misfires. Also, the car now idles and doesn't seem as rough as it was, but it still registered P0300. Also, I ran it for about 1 minute and I didn't hear a backfire. I am pretty sure it was a backfire that I heared before because when I took the plugs back out, they were clean except for the back two (cylindars 5 and 6 were black).

Also, I took clear pictures of the timing chain and sprockets before I originally took them apart. The cam sprockets, marks on timing chain and timing marks on crank are exactly as they were before. Is it possible (because the original chain was so stretched) that it is taking longer for the computer to "learn" and re-adjust to the new chain?

Sorry there is so much info here. I figure, the more I can tell you, the better chance of getting this diagnosis right.

I was talking with a guy in the auto parts store today. He asked if I disconnected the battery before I started. I didn't. He said disconnecting the battery forces the computer to re-learn the timing from the sensors. If the battery was not disconnected, the computer is starting out as if the old chain was still in and it may take longer for the computer to "even out". As I said, the last time I started the car it didn't backfire and it also idled, which it wouldn't do the first time. It was much better the second time I started it as opposed to the first.

What do you think?

I was going to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes and then try starting it. If this solves it great, if not I will swap the coils like you said. I cleaned up the plugs before I put them back in the last time (wire wheel). I would suspect they would still be clean as I don't think it backfired the last time.

Let me know what you think.

Since my last post I put the power steering pump and both serpentine belts back on the front of the engine. I tried to start it up and the battery was too weak. Therefore, I hooked up the battery charger/jumper and let it charge for a bit. I started it up and it sounded more like the first time I started it. A lot of drag and it was hard to keep it going. I think this is likely because of the additional drag put on the engine by the two serpentine belts and all they are connected to (I didn't have these on the last time and the engine sounded better). Also, the engine will not idle now (likely, because of the additional drag). The engine still did not backfire. I checked the codes again and now there are 12 registered.

P0351-ignition coil A
P0352-ignition coil B
P0353-ignition coil C
P0354-ignition coil D
P0700-Trans control system
P0351-ignition coil A
P0352-ignition coil B
P0562-System low voltage
P0353-ignition coil C
P0354-ignition coil D
P0135- Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank1, sensor 1)
P0155- Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank2, sensor 1)

Also, I thought that if it was out of time I may see a decrease in compression on one bank of cylinders. All cylinders were between 145 and 160.

When removing the drivers side valve cover, I damaged (what I now know is) the ignition coil capacitor. I was told it was for noise supression. It was mounted to one of the bolts that holds down the valve cover. I didn't think it was much. I thought it just grounded the wire. Therefore, I cut off the end and connected a wireless connecter and re-attached it to the valve cover bolt. When I initially tried to start the engine (after replacing the timing chain and water pump), it would turn over great but didn't sound like it was firing. I checked the fuses in the relay center (under the hood). A 20 amp fuse labeled Ign/coil was blown. I replaced it and tried to start it again. Again, it blew. I then found out what this part was and disconnected the wire from the valve cover. I then tried to start the engine. It would turn over but would not start and it didn't sound like it was firing. I went to the Chrysler dealer and got this part, an ignition coil capacitor. I put them back in (one for each side of cylinders) and tried to start the car. It started up but would run really rough, like it is now. Could I have damaged a coil or the ignition module? The fuse is still good (grounding that wire probably blew the fuse).

Update.

I checked for spark at the drivers side cylinders. Two out of the three do not have spark. After swaping plugs and coils, I have determined it is not a coil or a plug. According to the manual I have, the next thing to check is the cam and crankshaft position sensors. The voltage going to the camshaft sensor is supposed to be 8 volts. It reads 5 and I am not getting a signal out of it when the crank is rotated. Therefore, I swapped out sensors with another 2.7 engine and it didn't make a difference. It states in the book if the voltage is not correct, check the wiring between it and the PCM. If it is OK, have the dealer check the PCM.

What do you think. Could I have damaged it when I grounded out the wire going to the ignition coil capacitor?

Check your fuel pressure, it may be time for a new fuel pump.