Tie rod broke so I need to replace it?

What led to the tie rod breaking?, and does the other noise appear to be on the same side? You can check for loose/worn components by lifting each side under the lower control arm, and grasping the wheel at 12 and 6 and rocking, as well as 9 and 3 and rocking. With the rattling, it could be sway bar related. You can isolate that from being a cause by disconnecting the links at the control arms and road testing the vehicle. This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

Please run down this guide and report back.

No, the alignment should have no bearing on correcting/causing a noise like you describe. When you checked the wheels for play, were you supporting under the lower control arm? The reason I ask, is with the suspension hanging unsprung, play in the ball joints may be masked by the downward force applied by the spring. Basically, what you are trying to replicate, is the suspension at a position as it would be with the wheels on the ground, but having the wheel suspended.

Is this pop or clunk a one time event after turning, and does it do it both right and lef turns? Can it be replicated when turning th wheels while stationary, or does it have to be in motion. I am just suggesting possibilities, but if it is a solid clunk like vehicle weight is playing a part, it could lie in the upper, or lower control arms/bushings, or something influenced by the torque/twist of the frame. Does it perhaps have a skid plate attached to the underside? Sometimes loosening or removing it may make a change, especially if it is a metal plate.

Thanks for the participation.

Given the symptoms I'd start by checking for a broken tire belt, especially if they're nearing the end of their tread life. With a new tie rod end the truck would have to be aligned, and no conscientious mechanic can do that with sloppy ball joints. No upper or lower ball joint on any vehicle can have sideways movement between the ball and socket because that's what holds the spindle and wheel in proper alignment. Any visible movement is WAY too much. In addition, there can be no up-and-down movement between the ball and socket on any ball joint on any vehicle, ... Except the lower ball joints on Dakotas. New ones right from the dealer have about 1/8" of movement, which would normally be a real lot, and aftermarket replacements can be allowed to develop that play, and still be acceptable, (only on Dakotas; not on other brands and models). That movement will not cause clunking noises or handling problems. That movement has been mistaken by a lot of mechanics as a need to replace those ball joints. That only applies to the lower "load-carrying" ball joints, not the upper ones.

Sideways play in any ball joint can cause a wobble or shimmy in the steering system but typically clunking and tire wear are the only symptoms. In addition, a small change in the "toe" adjustment after replacing the tie rod end and setting the alignment can show up as a change in the handling and can make that wobble more pronounced to where you first notice it. In those cases, the alignment didn't CAUSE the wobble. The previous misalignment masked it.

Hi:

If the tie rids are worn to a point that they have too much play (loose) an alignment is not possible. It would be a waste of money to have done because the toe-in / out would change while driving.

Get a second opinion on the tie rods. If they are bad, have them replaced and then have your alignment completed.

Joe

I doubt the part is the same. Since this is a steering component, I strongly recommend that you replace it with the correct part. If it comes apart, you will loose control of the vehicle.

There is a lock nut between them and the center link. Loosten the nuts, and screw the tierod from the sleeve that hold it. On the other end, unbolt the one side and using a balljoint spliter, seperate the tie rod and replace.

Only replace the parts that show wear. If there is excessive play, then the part needs replaced. If it is tight, leave it alone.

Let me know if you have other questions.

JOe

There's a whole bunch of problems with what you're asking and there's too many variables for me to even look up the parts. I wanted to know the answer to satisfy my own curiosity. I was the suspension and alignment specialist at a very nice family-owned Chrysler dealership through all of the '90s, but I can't answer this question without looking up the parts.

First of all, the outer tie rod ends for a Dakota have different part numbers between the rear-wheel-drive and the 4wd, but they both look the same. One manufacturer lists the part as fitting either version which suggests the difference between them isn't too significant. In some places the left and right show different part numbers, but I don't remember ever having to specify which one I needed.

There's also two different steering systems used on the Dakota. One uses the rack and pinion steering gear and one uses the standard steering gear box. Both use similar-looking inner tie rod ends that are for the rack and pinion design. There is nothing close to this that was ever used on the full-size trucks.

The full-size trucks also used two totally different steering linkage systems. You have to specify if yours is a rear-wheel-drive or a 4wd. 99 percent of those sold were 4wd, and those have a very different steering linkage compared to the rear-wheel-drive version. All of the outer tie rod ends are totally different than anything on the Dakotas. As I recall, one outer tie rod end has reverse threads and one has normal threads.

The only thing that might be close is the outer tie rod ends for the rear-wheel-drive version, but those have different part numbers too. The other problem you're going to have is how do you expect to remove a tie rod end to reuse it? The stud fits tightly with a tapered fit that is wedged in. If you use a pickle fork to force it apart, you're going to damage the rubber boot. If you pound on the stud, you'll smash the end and the nut won't go on. You'll make way more grief than it's worth. A new correct tie rod is going to cost around 25 - 30 bucks. The only way you'd want to install a used one that's half worn out already is if this was a really old truck and parts were no longer available. Once the part is replaced, the truck will have to be aligned. If the used tie rod end wears out in 10,000 miles, you'll be doing the job again and paying for another alignment, so there went the savings.