2006 Dodge Dakota--High Idle, Revs, Dies while driving

Tiny
GODSYZE
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 64,500 MILES
When in park or neutral, engine idles high at about 1500--1800 rpms and revs or surges. Once I put it in drive, rpms drop to about 500-800, which is all fine and dandy. Most of my traveling is at about 35-55 mph over fairly hilly streets, at which time the truck shudders and acts like it's shifting roughly or stuck in gear (i'm not even sure it's shifting. Could be just just trying to stall.) Over the next several days, it shudders every few minutes when I try to accelerate or slow and more roughly until the check engine light comes on and the truck stalls completely, leaving me without power steering or brakes. (This whole process takes about 3 days to reach this point.) I re-start the engine, and for the next 2 days, everything works fine, until the check engine light is turned off (or turns itself off) and the whole sequence repeats.

IAC motor has been replaced, spark plugs replaced, fuel injectors cleaned, vacuum hoses checked and leaks sealed, o2 sensors cleaned, throttle checked, and new software update installed on pcm. Other than that, dealer says computer registers no other issues to address. (Annoyingly, they only want the truck there if the check engine light is on. Yet they say the light registers no code for them to fix. Additionally, they don't seem to care that I say the truck's performance actually IMPROVES as long as that light is on.)

I'm running out of options, funds and patience. Truck has been in shop 5 times in 5 weeks. What's left to check, replace, or clean? I'm now starting to think the fuel pump is going bad. Any other suggestions to try?
Tuesday, March 16th, 2010 AT 8:23 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Has the fuel pump pressure been checked?
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2010 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
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Not that I'm aware of. So if I go have the fuel pump pressure checked, will this reading tell me for sure if it the fuel pump going bad? And if that's the case, I just have the fuel pump replaced?

Would the fuel pump pressure be an indicator of any problems other than a failing fuel pump?

Thanks.
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Thursday, March 18th, 2010 AT 10:47 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Actually, you can check the pressure yourself. It is actually easy. We have both written directions and a video explaining how to do it which I will provide at the end of this posting.

The only thing you need is a fuel pressure gauge. You don't need to purchase one; most parts stores will lend or rent one to you.

Follow the directions and let me know what you find. Also, if the pressure is bad, it could be caused by a bad fuel filter or fuel pressure regilator. In the directions, it explaines how to check them too.

Give it a try and save your money. I'll be here if you have questions. Here are the directions.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Joe
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Thursday, March 18th, 2010 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
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  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
So, apparently there is an issue with my fuel pump, according to the new mechanic I took my dakota to.

He says a new pump will set me back about $400 for the part. Does this sound like a reasonable price or could I get it cheaper somewhere myself and just have him install it? Or does that piss a mechanic off when someone does that?

(some preliminary online research shows I could get one less than $200.)

would it be the same fuel pump for both of the v-8 engines or is there a different pump for the 4.7 L and 5.3 (or is it 5.2) L? (I think mine's the bigger engine.)

i appreciate your help with all this.
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 1:57 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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The price for the part isn't high if it is a factory pump. Yes, you can get an aftermarket one for under 200. As far as making them mad, it could. They make money off the part too. They get them at wholesale cost and sell them at retail. As a result, he makes an extra 100+ dollars on it.

As far as replacing the pump, it can be a pain, but if you have any mechanical ability, you could do it yourself. The easiest way to do it is to unbolt the bed and tail light wiring and have a friend help you remove the bed. If I remember correctly, there are 8 bolts that hold the bed in place. I can remove one in under 30 minutes.

I recommend removing the bed because otherwise you have to remove the fuel tank. THe tank will come out without too much effort, but they are plastic and if you don't get it back perfectly, it will crack.

Let me know if you need directions. This way you could save on getting the pump yourself and save the labor.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 23rd, 2010 AT 9:53 PM

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