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Neutral safety switch?

Tiny
CHIEFSHEA
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 43,000 MILES
While starting the vehicle, it lunges forward. It also lunges forward in reverse and neutral. I replaced the TPS. I verified the TB linkage and the shift linkage. The neutral safety switch is not functioning properly. I need to change it
Friday, September 4th, 2009 AT 5:37 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Does it kill the engine? Will it stay running while in gear? Here is the location of the neutral safety switch in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2009 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
CHIEFSHEA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
If I shift through the range of gears, going back to park, it dies. It really does not feel like it is in park though. If that makes sense? Before loosing reverse all together, it would sometimes die when putting it into reverse.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2009 AT 6:00 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Does is always feel as if it is in gear?
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Thursday, September 10th, 2009 AT 6:32 AM
Tiny
CHIEFSHEA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, it always feels like it's in gear.
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Thursday, September 10th, 2009 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
KIRT RAISOR
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES
It will not start. All the lights are on for the area where you see park reverse neutral etc. And now it will not even turnover. Could this be the neutral safety switch?
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try resetting security system if no manual look online for your vehicle on how to do it.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hey KIRT,

This could by may things,, here is a great article about an engine that worn crank over and how to test it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over

Let me know what you find.

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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE BRUEHL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
Installed transmission from Dakota Sport quad cab everything is identical, except the neutral safety plug on the harness.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon.

What was the year and engine for the donor truck so I can get a diagram? Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Roy
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NICKIDOUGLAS
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 1999 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
All the videos about replacing switch is talking about two 10mm bolts. Mine is the one 1" screw in type. Do I just unhook electrical and back old one out and replace with new or is there something else to it?
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Yes, it does unscrew it has a 3 pin connector unscrew. Use a new seal to install new.
May loose a bit of fluid during swap check and fill after swap. Reason to replace?
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LIV2RIDE
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
  • 1992 DODGE DAKOTA
Electrical problem
1992 Dodge Dakota V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

shutoff truck and will not turn over again.
Can jump across solenoid to start with key on. Checked all fuses and breakers. Can hear relay click no remote power to starter. Replaced neutral safety switch. Still no remote power. Ran AC for first time that day. Seems to draw down on volt guage as soon as key is on. Have not checked switch, but its not very old less than 10,000 miles ago. Is ther anything else to check. It runs fine I just have to jump the solenoid to start.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
I would go to your local parts store and have them do a charging system and starter test. It sounds like you may have a bad starter.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FLATFENDER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Same problem but starter checks out fine and battery meters out to 12.6 volts.
Can the relay still be bad if it clicks when trying to start.
Which female slot in the mounting base of the relay would I check for contenuity to the solinoid.

Edit- relay metered out ok
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DCLERGET
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Another user told me a different solution to the same problem I was having with mine. The issue ended up being that I had worn solenoid connections. He suggested that the dealer has an inexpensive repair kit for the problem, but I had my entire starter replaced (truck is so old, it probably needed a new one anyway).
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FLATFENDER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
After mine drove me nuts for 2 weeks I went to start replacing the cheapest easiest parts first. So after looking at a Haynes manual I took of the column switch to bring it with me to the parts store, when I went to take out the tumbler it came out in two pieces, yup the stupid tumbler was broke. So after spending $54 at the parts store I came home tossed the new tumbler in and presto, she starts.
One good thing that came out of this, I now know the entire starting system like the back of my hand.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MXZ6001
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 125,000 MILES
Hello,
I had my truck inspected and they said that the Neutral Safety Switch was not working. I have the Factory Manuals and it states only the Automatic has a Neutral Safety/Back-up Switch. My Truck is a standard and only has a back-up swicth on the transmission. Is this a combination swicth that incorporates the Neutral Safety Switch? I cannot get any information on it from the dealer.

Thanks, George
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Hi:
Your manual is correct. You have no neutral safety switch. However, there is a safety switch that requires the clutch to be depressed for the truck to start.
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KAGEPEE1
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1987 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Sirs, The truck in question is having a problem starting. The alternator was changed, the battery is good(new). I was told that you have to reach down below the steering wheel & jiggle the little wire cable there until it catches & starts. Is it not the Neutral safety switch or is it called something else? I seem to have encountered this problem years ago.I am trying to help the person find the correct part or parts. I am hoping you are able to answer my question, with some verbal diagram of what it might look like, Again thank you in advance.
Kenneth Perkins
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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Are you wiggling the shifter cable? The switch you refer to is on the transmission...If it is the cable, it may just need an adjustment, that would be done under the truck on the side of the transmission.

With column shift lever in "P" position, loosen adjustable swivel lock screw. See Fig. 5 . Ensure swivel is free to move on shift rod. Disassemble and clean components if required. 2.Move shift lever on transmission to full rear detent (Park) position and tighten swivel lock screw. When linkage is properly adjusted, detent positions for Neutral and Drive will be within limits of shift lever gate stops and engine will start only in "P" or "N".
Fig. 5: Column Shift Linkage Adjustment

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH
1.With transmission linkage properly adjusted, switch should allow starter operation in Park and Neutral only. To test switch, remove wire connector and test for continuity between center pin of switch and case. Continuity should exist only with transmission in "P" or "N". 2.Check for continuity between 2 outer pins. Continuity should exist with transmission in reverse, only. There should be no continuity between either outside pin or transmission case.

NOTE: Ensure gearshift linkage is properly adjusted before replacing a switch that tests bad.
3.To replace, remove switch from case and allow fluid to drain. Move selector lever to "P" and "N" positions and check that switch operating fingers are centered in switch opening. Install new switch and seal. Retest switch for continuity and add transmission fluid.

Fig. 6: Back-Up Light/Neutral Safety Switch
When installing new switch, tghten to 24 ft. lbs. (33 N.m).


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https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_dakotaa_1.jpg

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Thursday, September 24th, 2020 AT 10:50 AM (Merged)

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