Ball Joint

With the weight of the vehicle resting on the road wheels, grasp the special fitting cap on the bottom of the ball joint and with no mechanical assistance or added force, attempt to rotate the grease fitting. If the ball joint is worn, the grease fitting will rotate easily. If movement is noted, replacement of the control arm is recommended. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Merry Christmas to you and your family

oil and filters should be checked and changed as needed
check it for tune up
if has v6 3.0 should check timing belt if had never been changed
check tires and adjust pressure
check front end and common to find stabilizer links and bushing need replacement
jack the front tires one at a time and check for movement left and right up and down
remove and check brakes
belts and fluids

good luck and have a safe and happy holidays

This is an involved process. I recommend getting a good repair manual that has step by step instructions and pics to identify parts. For me to explaine this allows too much room for error.

You'll need special tools for the inner tie rod end. The outers should be self explanatory once you look at the new ones. If you aren't familiar with all of the things professionals do to prevent damaging the new parts, it's probably better to leave it to them. With the van on a hoist, replacing all of those parts will take them about one to two hours. If you're crawling around on the ground, expect it to take the better part of an entire day.

Once these parts are replaced, the van will need an alignment. Most alignment mechanics will not trust anyone else's work so they will inspect the steering and suspension again before doing the alignment and putting their reputation on the line. If they recognize there's something you did that will reduce the life expectancy of any new part, someone will have to correct that. Part of the labor you pay for goes toward them replacing parts a second time if one is defective. If you install a part that fails, you get to do the work again.

Ever worked on cars before?

Removal (Ball Joint) 1. Remove steering knuckle. See STEERING KNUCKLE under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Pry off dust seal. Position Receiving Cup (C-4699-2) to support lower control arm while receiving ball joint. 2. Install a 1 1/16" deep socket over stud and against joint upper housing. Press down against ball joint upper housing to remove ball joint assembly from control arm. Installation 1. Position new ball joint housing into control arm cavity. Position assembly in press using Installer (C-4699-1 ) to support control arm. Align and press assembly until ball joint housing ledge stops against control arm cavity down flange. 2. Support ball joint housing using receiving cup. Position new seal over stud and housing. Using a 1 1/2" socket, press seal onto joint housing until seal seats against control arm. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS NOTE: During any service procedures in which knuckle and drive shaft are separated, thoroughly clean seal and wear sleeve with solvent. Lubricate both components.

The lower front suspension ball joints operate with no free-play. The ball joint housing is pressed into the lower control arm with the joint stud retained in the steering knuckle with a (clamp) bolt.

INSPECTION

With the weight of the vehicle resting on the ground, grasp the ball joint grease fitting, and attempt to move it. If the ball joint is worn the grease fitting will move easily. If movement is noted, replacement of the ball joint is recommended.

REMOVAL:
Special Chrysler Tools C-4699-1 and C-4699-2, or their equivalents, are required to remove and install the ball joint form the lower control arm. If the tools are not on hand, remove the control arm and have an automotive machine shop press the ball joint out and in.
Remove the lower control arm. Pry off the seal from the ball joint.
Position a receiving cup, special tool C-4699-2, or its equivalent, to support the lower control arm.
Install a 11/8 in. Deep socket over the stud and against the joint upper housing.
Press the joint assembly from the arm.

INSTALLATION:
Position the ball joint housing into the control arm cavity.
Position the assembly in a press with special tool C-4699-1, or its equivalent, supporting the control arm.
Align the ball joint assembly, then press it until the housing ledge stops against the control arm cavity down flange.
To install a new seal, support the ball joint housing with tool C-4699-2 and place a new seal over the stud, against the housing.
With a 11/2 in. Socket, press the seal onto the joint housing with the seat against the control arm. Install control arm.

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A ball joint won't cause a vibration. An inner cv joint can cause a vibration in the steering wheel under acceleration but it will go away when you're cruising at a steady speed or coasting.

It's a judgment call on how much play is in the ball joint. If it gets bad enough for the ball and socket to separate, the bottom of the wheel will squirt out and you'll lose control. That doesn't happen very often. Replace it as soon as possible.

Lower jack up as close to joint as possible couple inches off. Plase large bar, pipe, 2x4 under tire pull up quickly there should be NO movement in joint

Let's modify that a little. That works on cars with the spring pushing down on the lower control arm, but in this case, supporting it under the control arm will squeeze the joint tightly together because the spring is pushing down on the spindle. Instead, support the van with jack stands under the cross member or frame. If there is a grease fitting in the lower ball joint, try to wiggle it. If it moves, there is excessive wear in the joint. This is only accurate when there's no weight on the tire. I think the wear-indicator grease fittings went away with the '95 models but check for that anyhow.

Next, you can also grab the tire on the front and back and try to turn it left and right, gently. Have the steering column unlocked. If you feel a little knocking, have a helper do that while you watch underneath to see if the play is in the inner or outer tie rod end. If both are solid and there's no clunking, do that again but much harder. When you tug really hard each way, you're using the tire as a lever to push and pull against the steering linkage. Sideways play in the ball joint will show up this way. You'll see the bottom of the tire move in and out too as well as feel it.

The last thing is to use a pry bar to try to move the control arm up and down. Do that right next to the ball joint. If you see movement between the ball and socket, replace the ball joint.

Excuse me for sticking my nose in here.