Blowing engine fuses

It sounds like you have a defective alternator which you can see from this wiring diagram (below) I would remove the alternator and install an different unit AC Delco work really well.

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Here is how is will be like on your car (below) And we have the fuse panel diagrams as well.

Please run some tests and get back to us.

Cheers

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers

To prevent wasting fuses, use a pair of spade terminals plugged into the fuse socket, and a pair of jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. When you crank the engine, the automatic shutdown relay will turn on and the short will make the bulb get full brightness. It will also turn on for one second after turning on the ignition switch before you start cranking the engine. Now you can unplug things that are on that circuit to see which one makes the light go dim or out, indicating you removed the short from the circuit.

Depending which engine you have, disconnect the ignition coil or unplug the coil pack first. The next, and most likely suspect is wiring to one of the oxygen sensors fell down onto hot exhaust parts, melted, and shorted the internal heater wire ground. The alternator field and injectors are on that circuit too. The fuel pump should be on a different relay but powered through the ASD relay too. Unplug the fuel pump relay to isolate the pump.

Pop its cover off, reinstall it that way, then squeeze the contact to see what turns on. It could be a dealer-installed option. Another way to bypass it is to jump terminals 30 and 87 together with a stretched-out paper clip or piece of wire.

Not sure what else to tell you. A relay is expected to turn on at times, and nothing should be damaged when it does. Your only other solution is to follow the wire from terminal 87 and see where it goes.

Sometimes you can get a clue by looking at the two smaller wires. On the majority of computer-controlled circuits, the relay's coil is fed with 12 volts, either constantly or when the ignition switch is on, and the computer switches the ground side to activate the relay. That means, if you take the readings with the relay plugged in, you'll have 12 volts on both wires until one gets grounded to activate it.

Most commonly, when you have an owner-installed circuit, one of the smaller relay wires is grounded, and the switching is done on the 12 volt side. The relay will operate just fine either way, but a switched 12 volt side makes more sense to most of us.

Those are just generalizations, but they might help you solve this.

Hello,

Here is the IPMA diagram and the wiring diagrams that go with it so we can find out what the extra relay does.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken