DOD, AFM not working

Thank you. The VIN made it clear as mud. LOL. It shows you have the LM4 but doesn't list it as having AFM.
About the only option at this point is to use a good scan tool and see if there is anything hidden code wise and use the tool to test for the AFM controls and verify they work. Then check the wiring and parts to be sure nothing is wrong.

In the video I noticed the cluster not working which could be the problem because the CAN system runs through the circuit of the cluster. Did the gauges stop working after you cleaned the engine?

I believe Ken was referring to the instrument cluster inside the car. It looks like there is an issue with at least the temperature gauge. If that is due to a short in a sensor it could stop the DOD from working. However the more common issue with those is the stepper motor that moves the needle.
As the DOD stopped working after the wash I would suspect a bad connector that got water in it and now it is sending a bad signal. However those can be difficult to find as it could be almost any sensor or connector on the engine. The P0332 code alone would stop it from working, but if that code isn't being set now that the sensors have been replaced (nice work there) then the next step would be to connect a scan tool and watch the various sensor signals to find the one that isn't reading where it should be. The list I posted earlier are the signals the system uses to operate, any of them could be the reason.

How did you test the sensor? I would test it at the wiring harness outside the engine as it's more likely a wiring issue if you replaced the sensors already. The oil pressure could be a bad sending unit, or a short in the wiring.

Okay, so you still have the P0332 code then but it seems the sensor itself works from your test. This started after washing the engine and there are a dew places water could get in. I believe you were testing in C115 which is the harness connector. As such you shouldn't need to take it apart again. Instead I would go to the PCM and test there. You should get the same results when you hit the block. Another test just to be sure would be to use a couple jumper wires and reverse the connections at connector C115, so that the rear sensor connects to the front wiring and the front sensor connects to the rear. If you still get the same P0332 then you know it isn't the sensor or from that connector to it.
At the PCM the knock sensors are both in connector 1 at pins 11 (light blue sensor 2) and 51 (dark blue sensor 1) Being you have an issue with sensor 2 I would try to use a needle to back probe that pin on the connector without disconnecting it. Then see if you show the same change there when you tap, if you do then remove the connector and check it for corrosion/bad pins. If you don't have the same change as you did then you will need to inspect that harness to see if it has any damage between the knock sensor harness where you were testing and the PCM. If you have the same numbers at the PCM connector and removing the connector doesn't show any corrosion and testing right there still shows the changing data then something happened internal to the PCM.

Sounds like at least one of the sensors was a bit out of spec then, but the light is off and codes are gone so great.

Odd, but I think it's probably because the system uses the fuel level in the tank along with the other inputs. The other inputs are somewhat stable while driving while the fuel is moving around a lot in the tank. Try filling the tank all the way to eliminate most of the motion and see what it shows then, with a full tank the sensor should stay close to stationary regardless of vehicle position and it shouldn't cause it to change that much.
Another thing that changes it would be the engine load, going uphill places a higher load on the engine which uses more fuel while going downhill takes most of that load away so you get better mileage. Both of those will cause the instant mileage to bounce around a lot.

The way those read they are not active codes. Note how they say the tests have not been run yet. I would clear the codes it shows and see if they return.

Hi,

If you moved the throttle actuator, that shouldn't be an issue. It is recommended not to insert anything in it to move it because it can damage it. Also, if your fingers are in it and it actuates, that could cause personal issues.

However, the directions specifically indicate that you must move it to access the entire throttle plate. See pic below.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you are still having trouble.

Joe

First you need to verify if it even has DOD, here is a real quick way, Look down under the intake at the valley cover. Is it smooth or does it have ribs and channels like the ones shown? If it's smooth it doesn't have AFM. If it is ridged it should have it. The electrical connector on the cover is what controls the oil. The low oil switch will read low or high. Low is off, high is on. So, yours is working. None of those PIDs are for the DOD, it may show in active tests, been a while since I've used a Snap-On scan tool. Personally, I've removed DOD from just about every vehicle because it has a very bad habit of damaging the camshafts and lifters. GM even knows how bad it is because they are offering DOD delete parts themselves.
Displacement on demand (DoD) is disabled for the following faults:
- Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
- Brake Booster Vacuum Sensor
- Engine Oil Pressure Sensor
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Vehicle Speed Sensor
- Crankshaft Position Sensor
- Engine Misfire Detected
- Displacement On Demand Solenoid Driver Circuit Failure

So, check all of those to be sure they are connected and clean.